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Help How do i remove valve seats from a flattie ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BUICKS38, Jun 14, 2005.

  1. BUICKS38
    Joined: Sep 2, 2002
    Posts: 296

    BUICKS38
    Member

    Looks like i might have a bad valve seat in my flattie. Has anyone out there removed one before? Any help will be great. Thanks guys. Jerry
     
  2. jalopy43
    Joined: Jan 12, 2002
    Posts: 3,085

    jalopy43
    Member Emeritus

    You gotta drill holes in them, and break them in two,with a chisel.Sparky
     
  3. BUICKS38
    Joined: Sep 2, 2002
    Posts: 296

    BUICKS38
    Member

    Thanks jalopy, What about getting a new one in? is that any big deal?
     
  4. SHRUM
    Joined: Feb 25, 2005
    Posts: 616

    SHRUM
    Member

    dont they have a tool for that i think my dad bought one at speedway. yeah they got one 19.95make sure you puts some wd on them first
     
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  5. BUICKS38
    Joined: Sep 2, 2002
    Posts: 296

    BUICKS38
    Member

    I think the tool you are talking about is to remove the valve guide
     
  6. 286merc
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 1,793

    286merc
    Member
    from Pelham, NH

    Seats are hardened, not easy to drill. Old way was/is to use a very sharp chisel, one or two blows and they split, then you can pry out. DONT hit the machined area!

    For installing with the engine in the vehicle you need to heat the block valve area SLOWLY and then tap in the new seat which has been in the freezer a few hours. Have a fire extinguisher handy if there is a lot of crud in the lifter chamber. If you dont have adjustable lifters you may need to shave a few thou off the new stem to match the old length. Lap in the new valve and button it up.
     
  7. BUICKS38
    Joined: Sep 2, 2002
    Posts: 296

    BUICKS38
    Member

    Thanks 286 merc. This is a great help.
     
  8. tootallrodder
    Joined: Jan 7, 2003
    Posts: 404

    tootallrodder
    Member Emeritus

    I believe another way would be to use a mig welder are run a bead around the inside of the seat. This will shrink the seat and it will just about fall out. I have used this method on other pressed in items which would not cone out easily. (seal on transmission output.)
     
  9. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,988

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    Tootallrodder has probably the least destructive way to remove them. Any time a hammer and chisel is involved there is a chance of a misdirected blow and unwanted damage. By simply running a weld bead around the inside of the seat the resulting shrinkage will almost always allow the seat to fall out. If not it will be loose enough that just gentle persuasion will remove it.


    Frank
     
  10. BUICKS38
    Joined: Sep 2, 2002
    Posts: 296

    BUICKS38
    Member

    Thanks you all. I have used the welding method at work before on bearings and it worked out great. thanks again guys. Jerry
     
  11. NoSurf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2002
    Posts: 4,101

    NoSurf
    Member

    Take lots of pics and to a tech post.

    Please.
     
  12. Thirtycoup
    Joined: Jul 21, 2002
    Posts: 1,198

    Thirtycoup
    Member

    jerry???? do a tech post???? BBBBBWWWWHHHHAAAAA!!!!!!! come on jay, man that's funny!!!! mike
     
  13. NoSurf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2002
    Posts: 4,101

    NoSurf
    Member

    Hey, I said "please".
     
  14. 286merc
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 1,793

    286merc
    Member
    from Pelham, NH

    Never did the Mig trick, wasnt something that we had in the pits when I learned most of this shit; but it sounds like I need to give it a try sometime.

    Since a MIG is not in very many backyard rodders inventory the hammer and chisel still works fine. But as I said, be careful where you hit AND wear eye protection.
     

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