Can anyone help me out, or direct me to where to get 4 bolts for the steeringspindle arms on 39/40-ish brakes. Im replacing the dropped stock ones and need to change the bolts to regular boltheads. Worst case, what dimensions treads is it? Might seems trivial to you US guys but we run metric up here in Norway, not inches Worst, worst case Ill cut down the head to fit a wrench. OR weld a nut on top maybe?
Probably 1/2" unf. Not too clear what you're saying though. The bolt pictured is a backing plate to spindle item, no? Aren't the steering arms in that era cast into the spindle? Sounds as if you're looking to use bolt on arms? Apologies if I'm barking up the wrong tree and confusing things! Chris
yes. Im using bolt on arms. The stock ones has too much drop and I wont reheat those as I dont know how brittle they will be. I think I might have found someone local that actually sells UNF. I`ll check it out later today.
The backplate bolt pictured is 1/2" UNF. The bolt on steering arms I have also use 1/2" UNF. I used Allen headed bolts to attach them. Mart.
The stock spindles are forged and it is perfectly alright to heat and bend them. People have been doing it for decades. I heated and bent the stock arms on my 40 with no issues. The problem with the bolt on arms is that I have seen them come loose before.... do some research before you cut the factory steering arms off.
I agree completely. On my 39 Deluxe Ford I heated and bent the steering arms and never had any problems. I had no choice as this was before the day of bolt on arms
Click on the Search button and type in " bending steering arms ". Lots of good information there from a lot of people who have done it.
Had it happen to me. Going down the interstate in a fresh car on the way to the Louisville NSRA and had a weird wobble. Luckily it only chewed up the backside of the rotor and the heads of the bolts. Nothing catastrophic. One of the few parts assembled by the previous owner that we didn't double check. Nowadays I am a strong advocate for using the original arms on the Ford spindles if at all possible. Heat them and bend them. Nobody made better steel than Henry Ford. And less bolts to come loose is the best way to do it.
Thanks for the replies. Might just take your advice but the stock arms have already been heated and bent several times (Atleast two) as I can figure. With slow cooling it might work one more time? I dont know. Anyway. The bolts are sorted out so well see.
Note how Henry's bolt had a cotter pin. Hopefully you can do the same. The arms that use a through bolt (SoCal and Chassis Engineering) will allow you to use a nylock nut or cotter pin for positive retention.
I'd heat and bend the originals. It pays not to try and overthink early Ford stuff. Just treat it as the tough almost agricultural material that it is. Heat just enough to bend it and let it cool slowly. The rebent arms are probably better than a bolt on arm. Mart.
This is a real can o worms ! Heating a forging is not a good thing to ever do . Henry’s forgings are probably the best or some of the best ever produced . But it’s still a forging . I also know there are many many years and cars on the road with many many miles , with heated and bent arms . You loose a bit in length heating and bending also which in turn causes a bit tougher steering . X ray test after the heat and bend is the only way myself I would feel ok with heated and bent arms . I used Chassis Engineering bolt on arms on my own car with swedge style lock nuts , no issues to date , but the hole drilled in the bolt and a cotter pin or safety wire and castle style nut would be outstanding also . Just be safe , and know what your doing or have them bent by some one who does understand heating the metal and cooling it correctly .
Here's some. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...nkw=1940+ford+backing+plate+bolts&_sacat=6000 Could you use any of these? https://www.vintageford.com/sect_search.cfm?LineName=v-8&Line=v-8&Category=Axle- front&StartRow=21&PageNum=2