i'm building a 59 fleetside truck and i'm replacing the 6 with a 300HP 327 and TH350 trans. i'm using tubing cross members and stock steering. my question is...does the motor have to be offset to the pass side to clear steering box. i'm using shorty headers, but don't want clearence problems. hope someone can help.
Yep what chad said. You shouldn't have to offset it they came stock with 283s, just get a set of stock motor mounts and run with it.
Thanks guys. i can't use stock mtr mounts. no rear cross member. that's why the tube ones. it's was originally a 6 cyl truck.
'59 ran side mounts and a second set on the bell, but they run fine with side mounts and a rear tranny mount.
I just made a rear tranny mount for a Turbo 400 for my buddy's 59, it's pretty simple. Run the stock front mounts and make a rear trans mount. It took me an hour to measure and build it.
55-59 chevy pickups had front mounts, not side mounts. He added the two crossmembers already for side mounts and rear trans mount. I would not mount the engine until I had the exhaust on it, so I can see how it fits. But that's just me, I guess.
squirrel, i am going to set the mtr/trans on the cross members tomorrow. i will have the column and headers on it to test fit it all. we i get it set, i will tack them and re-check everything before welding. the bell housing crossmember has been taken out. Thanks for all the info guys.
Chaddilac, why not the center dumps? i was given a new set of chrome center dumps is why i was gonna use them.
If they clear the steering box, they'll work. I'd probably rather just use the original type rams horn manifolds on the truck, maybe it's because I have 4 pairs of them in the shed gathering dust
squirrel, i looked for a set of rams, but all i found was over priced rust. when my buddy gave the shorties i figured why not.
I said that cause you thought there would be some clearance issues. If you can run them I'd run the ram horns also. I have a pair if you're looking. We ran rear exit exhaust on the 58 we're working on, but it has a 80 camaro clip in it.
Just set everything up and see if they clear. If the center dumps clear the steering box you should be just fine. Also if you do use the center dump headers make sure you check starter clearance also. The chrome center dump headers I had came back towards the block to far and was pretty close to the starter. So instead of ordering a heat sheild I just put on a set of ram horns I had on the wall.
outlawsteel, i'll know tomorrow if i have issues. the motor already has a mini-starter on it which should help with clearence. i am on a strict budget as i only have a disability income, so if i can use these headers, i will. i have a very good friend who owns a custom body shop, and one who runs a mech shop, so i am getting great help to do this right. i have the "smarts" to do this, but not the place or the ability. i had a shop for 20 yrs where i did everything form streetrods to pro-mods, but i had to shut it down after health problems..........sorry for rambling on..
i ran block huggers on mine with the tubular motor mount and they cleared the stock steering box. i also have my beater 58 that has a 327 with ram horn manifolds and stock mounts and they clear the steering box ok.
This is a recipe for a broken bell housing. If you're running front mounts, you need a crossmember under the bell housing and the end of the tranny can float. This takes a little more fabwork when using an automatic but it can be done. However if you are using side motor mounts, the rear trans mount is fine. Just my .02
So let me make sure I am reading this right, it sounds like I misunderstood. You said "the stock front mounts", meaning that the front mounts (on the front of the block, to either side of the harmonic balancer) are being used to mount the engine? A camaro clip would have side mounts for the engine (not stock on a '59 p/u), which would make a crossmember at the rear of the tranny work perfectly. But if the "stock" front engine mounts are being used, the bell housing needs support and the tranny tail needs to float to avoid a cracked bell housing.
Dew468- If you do run into clerance problems, let me know. I may have a set of long tubes that will work for you. They are off of a 55 but they should still work. I can make you a great deal on them. Just to let you know who I am, we have met a few times in the past and I just bought a couple of heaters from you the other day. Let me know if you need them.
still working, but it's going slow. the shorty headers worked great. i have the cab back on the frame NO rust. everything that had rust was cut out a flush mount patch. some funky looking pieces, but no scabbed on pieces. it's totally steel now. on to the doors. BTW thanks again for all the suggestions
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