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HELP !! 1950 Chevy resto no brakes!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BULLFROGG, Apr 17, 2013.

  1. BULLFROGG
    Joined: Jan 13, 2006
    Posts: 253

    BULLFROGG
    Member
    from KY

    Hey guys,
    I done a frame off resto on this 50 Chevy I bought here off the Hamb. The only modern update added was power disc brakes. I still have everything under the floor and the brakes are s10 style. I added a residual valve last night and still have ZeRO brakes !!
    What am I doing wrong?
    Small booster
    80's dodge master cylinder
    S10 brakes
    Stock drums on rear
    Thanks


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  2. WillyNilly
    Joined: Apr 7, 2013
    Posts: 240

    WillyNilly
    Member
    from NorCal

    Did you make sure to bleed the master? Sometimes it takes a very long time. The residual valve is directional, maybe it's on backwards?
     
  3. Did you bench
    bleed? Adjustable porportion valve? Shoes adjusted close.
     
  4. BobMcD
    Joined: Jan 25, 2013
    Posts: 322

    BobMcD
    Member

    Start by checking the pushrod clearance between the booster and master. You could have the wrong master for the booster that you are running.
     

  5. BULLFROGG
    Joined: Jan 13, 2006
    Posts: 253

    BULLFROGG
    Member
    from KY

    Yes bench bled
    Yes valve is correct
    I have checked push rod and even adjusted it.


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  6. BULLFROGG
    Joined: Jan 13, 2006
    Posts: 253

    BULLFROGG
    Member
    from KY

    I'm about ready to push into a pond and leave it !!! ImageUploadedByTJJ1366206046.773444.jpg


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  7. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,602

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    Back to basics: do you have fluid coming out the bleed nipples? Does the pedal simply go to the floor when you have bled it?

    I had a similar problem when I fitted a 1"Ford MC to my RPU, with discs all round. It turned out I had the wrong master cylinder, and it did not move enough fluid to fill the system, move the pads and get brake pressure on all-new parts.

    I swapped it for a Wilwood single 7/8" MC and got brakes ten minutes later.

    I personally think bench bleeding is a joke. There is no logical or mechanical reason a master cylinder needs to be put on a bench just to get the laws of physics to apply themselves. If it is sat at a stupid angle in the car, I can see the issue, but correctly mounted there is nothing it will do on the bench that cannot happen in the car.
     
  8. Bench bleeding allows you to fully depress the piston to remove all of the air.....I have had to take off master cylinders and bench bleed them after they were installed as new units.
    What is the proper application for the Dodge master cylinder?
     
  9. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,758

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Had a similar issue. I went nuts trying to find the problem. I finally started breaking the lines at the master, and working my way down to each wheel, while pumping the pedal at each check. Once I got fluid moving at each point I tightened the fitting and moved to the next down stream. When I finished at the wheel cylinders I had pedal! So I bled the whole system to make sure there was no air in it, and it's worked ever since.
    Not sure what was causing the problem, but this fixed it for my system.
     
  10. birdman42
    Joined: Jan 18, 2012
    Posts: 400

    birdman42
    Member

    I had this problem on a 54 Chevy that a buddy put together and we had to get a master/booster combo then it worked out fine.The pushrod in the booster was not right for the master cylinder.
     
  11. S-10 Brake calipers = Quick Take Up.

    LOTS OF INFORMATION ON THEM


    Make sure your calipers and master cylinder are rated for each other.
     

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