Hot Rods Helix corner killer suspension

Im one of the suckers that bought the corner killer kit for my 56 f100, there is almost no front suspension travel, my coilovers look nothing like the ones they advertise even after upgrading to the heavier springs the coils have almost no gap. I try to avoid any uneven roadways and now I see one of my lower balljoint is either pulling out of the control arm or backing out and it seems to have excessive movement in all the joints loaded or unloaded. Im wandering should I suck it up and remove this chinese made crap and go with another kit or try to repair it.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Sounds like the spring rates are all wrong for your application. I'm not familiar with the kit: do you tell them what spring rates you want?

A quick look at the Helix website reveals that this is part of the dreaded Hoffman Group (apparently renamed: the info was well enough hidden. It seems they're running out of victims who are unfamiliar with the name.) In light of that I'd take a look at the assortment of individual parts you've got and see if there is something else you can use them for, e.g. hood hinges, seat springs, paperweights, etc.

 

Given the questionable quality of ANYTHING Hoffman, why would you even want to repair it? Or trust the integrity of any of it? I say move on or else the corner killer may kill more than corners.

 

Rotten; you might search out the Hoffman threads.

 

Ford used an exceptional axle under those old trucks, they were stout and simple.

Send it back for a refund if no refund available call an attorney and any consumer advocacy groups and or attorneys general that will listen.

 

Why does this sort of thing continue to happen? And to what agencies can complaints be made that will put the Hoffman group out of business for good? Maybe while the President of China is here in Everett, Wa. today touring the Boeing plant, someone can ask him about this garbage being shipped over here. But, I guess he's only here to buy airplanes, that will not have any Hoffman group parts in them,. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

"rough" situation - how long ago did you buy/install set up? in the long run will likely be best to replace with another well researched set up

 

Replace the whole works with something better and proven.
It's a hard lesson but one day people will learn not to buy that Helix-Hoffman trash.

 

looked at a car with one. I prefer axles but was looking anyway-didn't look too great and rode/handled worse.

 

Why don't people research their purchases before they make them.

DO NOT drive this truck until this has been rectified. It is NOT SAFE.

Take it all out, and return it.

It is not a corner killer kit, it is a driver and innocent bystander killer kit.

 

Nothing new in any of this. My barber had a few philosophical signs in his shop 50 years ago....
one of which said "there is no product some man cannot figure how to make cheaper and sell for less.....those who consider price only are his lawful prey". That saying was probably hundreds of years old then.

Put in a more succinct and familiar way...."you get what you pay for".....at best, I'd say....and maybe less.

Ray

 

Is anything usable? Is it independent? If the lower control arms are level, consider raising the upper coil over mounts to get more travel. The shocks should never bottom out before something else (bump stops) hit the frame first.

 

For your F100,
There is an easy way to fix the Suspension travel , Ride quality, Brakes, Ackermann, Power Rack, all with a proven quality parts already set up for you................
Install a Crown Vic front end ,and be done with all these Gee Whizz kits that try and re-invent the wheel.

Do it once ,then spend your time putting miles on that truck.

 

Give DW or Paul at Welder Series a call and see what they can do for you. Check out their web site. They make a good product and know what they are talking about. And Canadian to boot.

 

No. Nothing in these kits is of any quality. I put one of their control arms through a bandsaw, and found uneven wall thickness, seamed tubing, which appeared to be non-structural pipe.

In a MII system, the shocks are the bump-stops.

I cannot right off remember if the Crown Vic suspension is the correct width for this year F100, but, if it is, it is a highly-logical solution, for not a lot of scratch.

 

Had the OP used the internet to do a search on the company, then he wouldn't have had to use the internet to find a forum to seek help for an off topic subject.


5. As mentioned throughout these guidelines, the H.A.M.B. focuses on TRADITIONAL hot rods and customs. Posts pertaining to traditionally inspired, but not quite period perfect belong on the main forum found here. Please note that we don't focus on things such as modern fuel injected motors, big-inch wheels, frame clips, after market independent suspensions, etc... at all on the H.A.M.B.. As such, posts that stray away from the "traditional inspired" will be deleted.

From the rules sticky ^^^

 

Here's a tutorial



We have to decide whether taking risks is more traditional than safety of all concerned

 

Crown Vic suspension is not aftermarket, nor is it a frame clip.

Boss man can delete any thread any time he likes. He would be busy, though, were he to hold fast to these rules.

 

can you post some pix of the ball joint n arm, and of the coil spring. sounds like the spring rate is way weak(thus coil bind-thus driving the ball joint out). do the joints press in or screw in? Don't give up yet. call if you like. I'm a shop in Maine , have fabricated my own I.F.S. systems . Maybe I can lead you in a direction to repair. 207-712-8585

 

Butch asked, "Why does this sort of thing continue to happen?" It's the slick ads in the mainstream magazines that suck most people in. I have to admit I've been tempted by the ads and prices but I'm way too cheap to dive in. My F-100 still has the good ol' dropped axle I've been swearing I'd replace for years. Hard to beat simple.
If I were you, I'd replace all that crap with something else. You're messing with car (truck) control here and there's nothing more important for yourself and others. A lot of rodders redo their chassis stuff several times just 'cause they can't make up their minds - at least you have a good excuse.
I've heard (not verified) that the Crown Vic front end stuff is a little too wide for the 53-56 F-100s?? If that's true, that's too offensive to my eye, like a too narrow rear end or wheels/tires not centered in the fender openings. Anyone put a tape measure to one?

 

There on e bay also.

 

Heard the same about the CV being to wide. I ended up using a 57 axle with down /forward springs with reversed eyes in front. Relocated and flipped rear spring hangers with extended shackle for rear. I wanted to be able to get the bumper over the sidewalk.

 

I don't know about F 100 trucks. But I know of people that put the front K member and torsion suspension out of Mopar Cordoba, on fat fender ed Fords. It rode much better than MII.

 

I have not only heard that, but driven them, and a few AD trucks with the same. None of them rode well.

Maybe my standards are too high.

 

That is soooooo 1980's

My brother had a '56 F-100 with that suspension system. It was 'ok'...sort of...but he opted for one of El Polackos custom crossmembers that uses 1st generation Dakota suspensions bits.

As for the 2003 up Crown Vic/Merc Marquis front end. Hub to hub it is about 65". The wheels are like front wheel drive style, with deep backspacing and 17" to 18" diameter. The deep backspacing does bring the wheels inward, but the geometry precludes using more common/popular hot rod wheels.

The integrated crossmember/suspension is very appealing for a swap due to the relative simplicity of adapting it to a ladder frame. But, "all that glitters is not gold".

Ray

 

The rub with the Crown Vic front ends is that you are pretty well limited to factory Crown Vic wheels or aftermarket wheels that look like front wheel drive rims. That is unless you wan that 80's 4x4 look with the tires half way out of the fenders.
I bit off on a crossmember and A frames that are Helix from Welder Joe on Ebay and as every one else says the work is beyond suspect.
Welds on the crossmember ground through


Sloppy welds


More sloppy welds and crude construction


That setup isn't going on the 48 as I am running a Jag front end but after my son reworks it it will probably go under a little 1200 or less lb 4 banger OT roadster after a ball joint change.

 

Ignore all the previous suggestions and get with ElPolacko for one of his PROVEN Dakota based kits. I am putting one in my GMC and the workmanship is better than ANYTHING out there.

 

Jag, front & rear

 

Stuck in the 70's are we ?