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Technical HEI to points

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 60srailjob, Jan 8, 2019.

  1. 60srailjob
    Joined: Nov 14, 2008
    Posts: 1,219

    60srailjob
    Member
    from nowhere

    Have HEI, and I have a Accel dual point distributor and want to swap them. Again I want to ditch the HEI for points. Any help on the wiring is appreciated, thanks


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    F&J likes this.
  2. Use the proper coil for the distributer and run a ballast resistor on the hot wire. easy peezy.
     
  3. 60srailjob
    Joined: Nov 14, 2008
    Posts: 1,219

    60srailjob
    Member
    from nowhere

    Ok thank you porknbeaner


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  4. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,223

    F&J
    Member

    one more thing is that most cars that had points, they used a bypass wire from the solenoid to feed 12v to the coil while cranking. One car that did not was VW bug. Those used an internal resisted coil, which you could use if you don't have the older solenoid type with a bypass terminal.
     
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  5. 60srailjob
    Joined: Nov 14, 2008
    Posts: 1,219

    60srailjob
    Member
    from nowhere

    It’s a 77 and it has at this time HEI.


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  6. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,597

    2935ford
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  7. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 29,056

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That was real common in the 70's and early 70's when a lot of guys didn't understand the electronic ignition on any kid of rig. My Mom's 77 F250 with a 300 six was changed to points at some time in it's life. It was also done by guys headed somewhere where they could not get either parts for electronic ignition or find someone who could diagnose it.

    As PNB said use the correct coil and a resistor and as F&J said wire in a bypass wire for the resistor. If the solenoid doesn't have a bypass post on the solenoid you can wire in a pushbutton to a 12V hot source wiring it to the + side of the coil and just hit the button when you crank the engine.
    You will also have to swap plug wires and regap the plugs to .035 or possibly have to change the plugs to some that can be gaped .035 like those for a pre Hei engine the same as what you have.
     
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  8. 60srailjob
    Joined: Nov 14, 2008
    Posts: 1,219

    60srailjob
    Member
    from nowhere

    Mr48chev well the solenoid lost me lol the motor is a 350 L48 1977. I was hoping for and distributor change and a re-wire. Sounds a little more than that? So I’d have to turn the key on then hit a button to get it to fire?


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  9. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 5,214

    sunbeam
    Member

    One thing the plugs won't be seized you will be changing the every 10,000 to 20,000 miles.
     
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  10. 60srailjob
    Joined: Nov 14, 2008
    Posts: 1,219

    60srailjob
    Member
    from nowhere

    Not a problem it usually get about 1500 miles a year


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  11. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 3,980

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Your Chevy starter should have the bypass post on the solenoid. Some people like resistors, some like a resistor wire, and some like the internally regulated coil. If you look at the ignition system for a 1973 Chevy any-ol-vehicle with a V8, and copy that, you will be in points ignition heaven.
     
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  12. stubbsrodandcustom
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,395

    stubbsrodandcustom
    Member
    from Spring tx

    Still holding on to my points dizzy just in case i get fed up with electronic... Beaner got you on the money with the install. very simple and straight forward. Napa sells some of the best internally resistor coils we can get today. If you get an internally regulated one you dont need a separate ballast resistor. Also get some Elchin points and condensor as they are some of the better ones still made today. Dont forget to tuck a spare set away in the glove box for road trips.
     
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  13. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,223

    F&J
    Member

    This simply is not true. The hamb will never be coerced into straying away from the old ways by a random few members that insist otherwise. The "old ways" is what the site was intended to support.

    Depends on if he has a OEM solenoid from a car that had HEI when new, as those did away with the "I" terminal on the solenoid on those cars.

    If he does not have the "I" terminal on his present solenoid and still prefers using either a resistor wire or ballast resistor, he can buy the correct GM solenoid, or he can use a Ford type fenderwell mounted solenoid that has an "I" terminal to trip the GM starter.
     
  14. Elcohaulic
    Joined: Dec 27, 2017
    Posts: 2,019

    Elcohaulic
    Member

    I would just run one set of points.

    I never had any issues with points systems 6000 rpm and under.. I actually prefer them to electronic on a street car..

    You'll need a resister. I've run points systems without the starter bypass and never had any issues..

    My big block has an HEI but I'm converting it to stock points. I never liked the way the big HEI looked. I'm also switching to painted valve covers to give it that cool, all business factory look..
     
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  15. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 4,616

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    I've wondered about that. I keep a 3 ohm bosch blue coil behind the seat for a quick changeout back to points if the electronic ignition fails out on the road or whatever. Maybe part of that back then was people didn't necessarily keep their rides tuned very well.
     
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  16. 60srailjob likes this.
  17. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 4,616

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    Asking people to read, what are you nuts??
     
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  18. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 5,214

    sunbeam
    Member

    I Remember back in the 60s my 327 new plugs every 2,000 at oil changes to keep it from (poping corn) above 5000 rpm and my 426 hemi was a 2 week deal. Later a transistor unit helped still used points as the trigger. I heard what's wrong with so and so hemi it's a dog to many times
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2019
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  19. I completely forgot the cranking amps @ 12V and re-gapping the plugs. For years I didn't find the 12V cranking amps necessary. Then in about '05 I was trying to start a fresh FE for a fella and it would not catch. I looked and said, "Well lets give it 12V to start and ran him a wire from the excited post on his solenoid. It lit right off." Guess its a Ford thing. :D :D :D
     
  20. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 4,931

    Boneyard51
    Member

    Why?



    Bones
     
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  21. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 7,643

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not just FORDs Beaner, my 71 LT-1 vette with factory transistorized ignition was a terror to start when hot. Finally went digging through the assembly manual and realized I was short a lead on my coil. Cut open the taped harness and found the missing ring terminal and stuck it on the coil. Perfect till I sold it. I was starting the car on 9V, the car was designed to start on 12V and run on 9V. :(

    BTW, option K66 TI was introduced in 1962 by delco remy making it traditional in some sense on the HAMB. But I find this conversation "pointless" :cool:
     
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  22. LOL I was just getting my Ford dig in.

    Back in the later '60s and early '70s we used to get points with a little capacitor on them, I want to say that they were en Echlin product but I could be wrong. They made starting way easier or so we thought.
     

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