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Heavy Duty Engine Stand

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BashingTin, Oct 27, 2012.

  1. BashingTin
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 270

    BashingTin
    Member

    Thanks for all the kind words!

    I agree with several replies that the casters are the weak link. I think they are rated for something like 375 pounds each. They are cast iron with rubber tires. The rubber I'm sure will make it hard to roll when there is some real weight on it. The stand is probably close to 300 pounds by itself fully dressed with all the tooling. So far it rolls pretty smooth with just the block.

    I will keep my eyes open for some good steel casters in the 500+ range. Casters with brakes would be nice too.

    Thanks again everyone,

    David
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2012
  2. CH3NO2JAY
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 244

    CH3NO2JAY
    Member
    from Chicago

    KILLER work, I love it...
     
  3. That is one incredible piece of work - well done!
     
  4. jbrittonjr
    Joined: Sep 10, 2009
    Posts: 105

    jbrittonjr
    Member

  5. propwash
    Joined: Jul 25, 2005
    Posts: 3,858

    propwash
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Thanks so much for sharing that step-by-step build with us. Excellent photos and full explanations. I believe we have finally seen something that actually has enough COWBELL.

    dj
     
  6. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    like shooting rabbits with an elephant gun...:eek:
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  7. Man that's nice.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  8. hotroddonnie
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 244

    hotroddonnie
    Member

    WOW!!! Just a work of art.
     
  9. You´re crazy man! this is a admirable work
     
  10. ed_v
    Joined: Jun 2, 2008
    Posts: 239

    ed_v
    Member
    from Kentucky

    Amazing.... simply amazing.

    The talent of some people on this board are beyond words. Thank you very much for sharing.

    Ed
     
  11. Cant wait to see the car build! save this for tech week...
     
  12. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 3,907

    indyjps
    Member

    I would think you can trade machining services on just about any part of your car build you need help with. Find a painter that races and you'll be in good shape.
     
  13. Koolman
    Joined: Feb 1, 2005
    Posts: 308

    Koolman
    Member

    THAT IS AMAZING! I can see 35 years of skill and experienced.
     
  14. Stroker McGurk
    Joined: Feb 17, 2012
    Posts: 291

    Stroker McGurk
    Member
    from Canada

    What?...Harbor Freight was out of engine stands?

    Kidding....great work
     
  15. Harvey29
    Joined: Sep 29, 2010
    Posts: 176

    Harvey29
    Member
    from kansas

    Sure beats my $10 swap meet stand
     
  16. jfg455
    Joined: Apr 22, 2011
    Posts: 171

    jfg455
    Member
    from NH

    more like shooting flys with a Howitzer! :D

    Awesome work on the stand. People ask what it would sell for. We had one like it for Catapiller engines when I worked at a GM medium duty dealer. It was $3499 bare, no adapters. It was made with a huge cast iron base but the head unit was a lot like yours. we made adapters to hold Allison transmissions, Duramax motors, rear end housings and hubs for it. it was awesome. Probably could have bolted a frame to it and used it for a rotissery!
     
  17. Very nice work!
     
  18. tinmann
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,589

    tinmann
    Member

    Wow, what an amazing piece of fab work and an even more amazing step by step pictoral how-to. I am a High School Metal Shop teacher and I just bought an indexing head with plates. I am NOT a trained machinist and I am trying to see how I can fit this tool into what we do. Your splines seem like something very do-able. Can you show me the tool you used to measure the depth of the splines as you broached?
     
  19. barstowpo
    Joined: Jun 27, 2012
    Posts: 232

    barstowpo
    Member

    How did you determine the hole locations for your face plate? They look very symmetrical.
     
  20. GREAT post and Great work!
     
  21. Bert Kollar
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 962

    Bert Kollar
    Member

    I wish I had your talent
     
  22. boooooob
    Joined: Sep 14, 2012
    Posts: 38

    boooooob
    Member

    BashingTin




    Man, if I COULD/did build something like that I wouldn't want to use it..I would just want to look at it..:D:D:D THAT IS PRETTY:D/REALLY TUFF

    boooooob
     
  23. BashingTin
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 270

    BashingTin
    Member

    I use the help of gauge pins to measure the contact diameter of the spline. Because the spline I cut for this project had an odd number of teeth, I had to use three small equally sized pins placed in between the teeth of the internal spline I'm cutting. I sized them to something close to touching the contact diameter, with the outer pins all held in place by a larger diameter pin in the middle. It helps if you use a jewelers loop to get in and see what's happening. As I cut each tooth deeper, the middle pin gets bigger. Hench, my ability to measure a change in diameter.

    There was some fussing and guessing that I needed to do. This was because I did not have a drawing of the original spline of the gearbox input shaft. It helps if you've cut a few internal splines before. But if you're careful and sneak up on it, you will usually hit your target without going over.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2012
  24. vtx1800
    Joined: Oct 4, 2009
    Posts: 1,069

    vtx1800
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That, to me, is a work of functional art. You've forgotten more than I will ever know!
     
  25. BashingTin
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 270

    BashingTin
    Member

    I took careful measurements of the locations of each hole in the block. If a part is not too big, I will carefully place it up on the milling machine table, and insert pins in the holes to find the locations of each. I use the glass scale (DRO) to take my measurements.

    There is some guessing that happens too. I may find a half dozen holes that seem to follow a pattern, but one hole is off by only a few thou. On closer inspection I may find that the hole it'self is warn or damaged a little. If that's the case, I will adjust my dimension to follow the pattern. If the hole is off by more than 10 thou, I will study it more carefully and determine what's really going on.

    Not having original prints of a part as complex as an engine block can be challenging when you're trying to figure out where stuff is supposed to be.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2012
  26. Brad54
    Joined: Apr 15, 2004
    Posts: 6,011

    Brad54
    Member
    from Atl Ga

    There's no kill like overkill, but that's in a whole 'nother league!

    Damn fine work.

    -Brad
     
  27. Mattilac
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,145

    Mattilac
    Member

  28. Ruggie
    Joined: Sep 23, 2011
    Posts: 131

    Ruggie
    Member

    That's awesome nice job.
     
  29. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,428

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    Dam thats nice, and made in the US ofA
     
  30. I feel inadequate after having seen this, but I am so glad I did!

    Thank You! :)
     

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