Technical Heat- or the lack of it - UPDATE

I agree with the guys that say 160* should produce heat out of the heater. The heater should start produce warm air well before the dash gauge shows 160*. I would check the temp difference on the heater hoses. They should be equal. If one is warmer than the other it would indicate a lack of flow through the heater core, than you could start hunting down why the flow is restricted.

 

I might just make a side trip to wally world tomorrow.

No cat's thank you.HRP

 

Not sure if if it is the issue but the return hole from the heater hose on the Zips riser looks to be seriously smaller than the return hole in the pump restricting flow.
I can't find a usable photo of the back side of a 6 cylinder pump that I can save but the hole on this flowkooler pump should be oem size and looks a lot larger than the what appears to be a 3/8 hole in the riser. https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.co...line-6-cylinder-ccw-rotation-riser-water-pump
Because there are so many of those risers out there on Early Fords and AD Chevy pickups I'd think if it was a serious issue it would have been brought up. Possibly because so many guys don't run a heater or don't drive when the temp goes down. I've run the heater in the middle of July up here crossing the passes at night when the temp drops down a number of times.
If the heater is flowing right and working right you should have enough circulation though the heater that even a 160 thermostat won't open. 15 miles and the temp should get up to 160 though even if the heater is doing most of or all of the cooling.

I can't find a usable photo of the backside of a six cylinder water pump but this F

 

http://www.snowwhiteltd.com/PDF/RiserWP.pdf You don't happen to have a restriction piece in the heater hose that was there from when you didn't have a heater that you didn't take out?

 

I am running the zips riser setup on my coupe with a Sears (rip) Allstate heater. It doesn't take long for the heater to run you out of the car. Only thing I have that I haven't been able to fix is a temp gauge fluctuation. Heater is hooked to the intake and the water pump with no shutoff in the system. Mine starts putting out heat well before the stat opens. I'm thinking blockage in HRP's system or a door not opening in the unit. D

 

Been there...

 

You did roll the windows up......... dint'cha?

 

sooo you didn't try it out before you needed it.....shame shame shame.......

 

Did you grab the heater hoses?
Core Inlet hose should be operating temp (160) and the core outlet should be 20 degrees cooler (140) .
That’s the very first step to diagnosis of no heat. In some areas, no heat in your car can get you dead in several different ways.

Them damn shipping plugs have been found here in radiators, heater cores, and yes dishwashers.

 

One sure way to check flow is to temporarily remove the return hose and replace it with some clear tubing that's the same size. Then you can see if it's flowing while the engine is cold or as it heats up.

 

Going off track just to say. Last week I heard this on the radio. I can't remember when I last heard it. But it's been a very long time.

 

HRP you got a vacuum brake bleeder? Hook up to radiator cap seat [make a plug with small hole] and draw some vacuum..Will pull any air out with out disconnecting coolant lines..As previously stated be sure your shut off valve is open and staying open and your windows are closed [hehe].

 

Heck yeah! Check your header primaries when your trying to find out which cylinder is misfiring, which brake is sticky, etc...

 

I still spit on my finger and touch each tube to see which one doesn't sizzle.

 

That answers that question so we can pretty well forget that it is something with the Zips riser.
I'm still betting on restriction.

On thing to try might be the northern poor boy's radiator air flow deflector. Something to block off the air to the radiator for a test drive.

 

Am I the only one that thinks that if there is a 180 thermostat and the water temp is only 160, he needs a new thermostat?
160 may produce some heat at a heater core, at some point in time. But by the time that heater fan kicks in, that "warm air" won't feel very warm, and if the thermostat is stuck open, it will take a long time for the entire system to get back up to the 160 with a heater fan running on low speed. If the fan isn't running, how do you know there isn't heat in the heater core?

A heater test is pretty simple, no fancy tools required, and it can even be done when the outside temp is 50 degrees. Once the motor warms up (160 degrees or higher), grab both heater hoses with your hands.
1) Both heater hoses are cold (no flow to the heater core, the problem is not with the heater itself),
2) One is cold, one is warm, (the core, or something at the core is blocking the flow),
3) Both heater hoses are warm, (there is heat through the heater core, the problem is in the heater/ac box). Gene

 

I agreed with this yesterday but I'm not so sure now. This looks more like a bypass than a return when looking at the pump vs riser.

 

I would unplug the AC compressor to make sure the unit isn't cooling at the same time.
Good Luck

 

If you had taken the time to read the entire post instead of making remarks you would have read that the heater was working when the system was installed, I had to put a extra cut of valve in the hose before I could get adequate air when charging the ac unit.

June is not the optimum time for heat. HRP

 

June is indeed the optimum time for heat. My heaters all work great in June, even in the cars that don't have heaters. It's just a bad month to test heaters, because they all work so well then!

smartass in every crowd

 

Jim, I'm going to go to walmart and look at the heat gauge you were referring to, I really try to avoid that mad house but what department will I find it, Automotive? HRP

 

Tools and Automotive are usually next to each other. If you want a real test of your computer search skillz, you could see if they have one in stock, and what department it would be in, and how much it costs, before you go. Unfortunately, walmart's web page sucks, so this is really hard to do.

I know I saw one last week while I was wandering through the tool/automotive end of the store. didn't notice the price, and I don't remember what isle I was in.

 

That manual valve you have pictured is junk most likely. Its a crappy valve to begin with, I know that if its installed backward, and the butterfly inside fails it will fail closed. I put a brass ball valve on mine cause these things suck that bad. Feel the hose after running a bit, see if one side the side from water pump should be hot, the side after valve going to heater core if its colder than the supply the valve is toast. My vintage air in my 56 with air and heat... only thing that works ok is the heat, the ac sucks so bad its getting pulled out very soon... 100 degree day and only can get 85 inside just isn't worth it.

Side note HRP..... If the compressor is running also the ac may overpower the heat and make it not blow warm so make sure the compressor isn't running etc... I know its a no brainer but still sometimes overlooked.

 

The air will freeze us out in July if it's on high, even on the hottest days when we were on the interstate for several hours we ran it on medium & low most of the time. HRP

 

Harbor freight has the cheap temp guns as well.

 

I would be in heaven, hanging meat would be wonderful... We can just trade units out and you can have heat, I'll take the walk in cooler chiller...

 

And you can get a free flashlight!

 

just dont' give them your email address!

 

I hear ya Jim!

I went to wally world this morning , I couldn't find one in the automotive, the tool or the cooking departments, I'll check out the local HF this afternoon. HRP

 

Home depot has a laser temp gun made by ryobi, had mine for a few years, works good up to 550 -600 degrees I think.