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Header experts need some advice on fabing me a set of lake pipe headers

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by scott 351 wins, Apr 1, 2013.

  1. scott 351 wins
    Joined: Dec 22, 2009
    Posts: 434

    scott 351 wins
    Member

    I am building a 46 ford "Rudy style" pickup on a 2x4 3/16 frame that I built and I am planning on using a ford 400m that I had in a 79 Bronco that I parted out, so after selling stuff off of it the motor came out to being free (I paid 250.00 for Bronco)

    I see that there is no Lake style headers for the 400 so I am going to fab up a pair in the next week or so and ordered a 10' sick of 4" for the cone but the port size of my 400 is 1.58 x 1.96 making this a 2 Barrel motor. My question is; is there tubing that size I can buy since There are other style of headers available for this engine so someone is making tubing for them or do I buy 2" tubing and modify it for my application?

    The header flange I plan on using;
     

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  2. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,151

    pitman

    I've used a preferred tube diameter, heated and worked the tube flange ends to fit. Stick weld the back(block) side and grind 'em flat.
     
  3. For a 351 2 bbl/400 you want to use 1 3/4" tubing. First trying to squish 2" into that flange will be a lot of work and won't look right and second that is too big of primary tube for that motor anyway.
    Use the 1 3/4" and heat it slightly and then use a hammer to form it to the oval port.
    This is how we make headers Everyday (well we have some forming dies, but they aren't necessary for a one off set)
     
  4. scott 351 wins
    Joined: Dec 22, 2009
    Posts: 434

    scott 351 wins
    Member

    Very good advice, I will give that a shot. Do you have any pics of the forming dies and some of the stuff you make I am interested in seeing some of your work.
     

  5. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 6,934

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I just finished a set on a 351 Ford with the same oval port, 1.300 X 1.960. 1 3/4" tube fit perfectly, I squeezed it in the vice and used a "bull nosed" bar to roll the top and bottom of the pipe. Using 1 3/4 tube should be a snap with your port size. Here are some pics.
     

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  6. scott 351 wins
    Joined: Dec 22, 2009
    Posts: 434

    scott 351 wins
    Member

  7. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,151

    pitman

    Engine mount 'limits' of movement and rear of collector mounting, will either tend to, or prevent cracks over time.
     
  8. DrJ
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 9,418

    DrJ
    Member

    Don't forget to weld the "diamond" in between the four pipes before you weld the collector on.
     
  9. willys1
    Joined: Oct 31, 2012
    Posts: 1,021

    willys1
    Member
    from South Ga

    I agree ^ 1 3/4 for sure on that motor for street use. Its a fairly simple job to fit the tube in the oval flange.
     
  10. Nice job. Is that a Cleavor motor?
    And you really shouldn't use vice grips to torque the heads






    (that last bit was a joke)
     
  11. If you angle cut a 1-5/8 tube it will be the oval shape of the flange.
    Little die grinder work and it will close up the gap.
     
  12. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,001

    chaddilac
    Member

    I put mine on a piece of square tubing and worked it till it fit my flange.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 6,934

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Don, It is 392", Edelbrock heads, according to Smeding, it is suppose to dyno at 450 hp. I am used to using the grips on allen bolts, as they are "knurled for Vice Grip torquing", and I couldn't break the habit. Thanks for the kind words.
     
  14. ken1939
    Joined: Jul 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,558

    ken1939

    Were these examples all made in mild steel?
     

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