Header configuration: Your opinion.

Going to have to get a little weird on my driver's side header if I want to clear the steering box using the SS block hugger I have. I can make it work, but have never really seen a header in the configuration that I came up with.

Of course, that could mean that it's a bad design that flows terribly...which is what I'm a bit concerned about. Let me know if you foresee any potential issues with this design.

As always, thoughts or advice appreciated!

These pics are a rough mock-up and a rough sketch...







-r

 

Sure it will flow less than a full four tube header... It will likely flow less than a properly built "tri-Y" header... But it will surely flow better than the average GM manifold.... If you started fresh though you may be able to do a full four tube design....

 

That's sorta what I figured. I could start from scratch and make something, but I'm trying to spend my limited time wisely. Modifying this block hugger should take a total of 3(+-) hours. Already got an hour into cutting it up and doing the mock-up & I figure another 2 to fab/weld it out.

It's going on a closed-hood custom so it needs to be tidy & functional but not a mind-blowing piece of fabrication.

Thanks for the feedback!

 

Think about up and over from the front to the rear, like a y block ford. That gives much better space to changing spark plugs and keeps the wires cooler.

 

if you run them like you have it the two inside tubes will send their pulses directly into the outer pulses
this to me looks like it will flow much worse that stock

 

It almost looks like it might be easier and flow better by doing a 3/4 length rear dump header. You a bit of room behind that steering box.

 

Sure looks like you could run rear dump header. The mock up you have is going to restrict your exhaust and even as close as the header is to the steering box heatwise is no good.

 

why not run them straight down into the cluster? kinda end up right at the bend of the outer pipes. seems better for spark plug clearance also

 

Not good that way. Try to point them in the direction of the flow.

 

Yep, flow was my first concern. I'd hate to do anything that really hurt H.P. although I'm not too worried about how 'hot' this motor is...Just not that kinda car. I can see how my current design could impede exhaust.

That was the other option... I'll probably go with that. I avoided it because it involved cuts that will be a pain in the ass to make cleanly. Not too bad, it'll just be a bit more time in the part.

 

If I went rear dump I'd probably just make 'em myself. The pic makes it look like the collector is hitting the steering box. Actually there's a 5/8 -3/4" gap between 'em when the header is snug.

Thanks guys, you rule.

 

run it!!!

 

As a header designer, I am going to say that your design is going to kill power more than the shorties all ready do. When we do a Tri Y, the junction goes into larger tubing due to the increase in flow from two tubes joining. You are creating a bottleneck. I would suggest looking at rear swept 3/4 headers. I also think you are going to have a hard time getting around the spark plugs and into the tubes that you are trying to do.
One last thing, Check those headers carefully. Many of those Chinese SS block huggers hit the block on the collector ring.

 

will something like this work?

 

I'd bring them down into that huge gaping hole by the oil filter behind the box.

 

If you do a recent dated thread seach, 31Vicky ran one on header designs that exp. posts from Hotroddon and others advised using a alternating pulse, 2 into 1 'y' configuration, timed correctly would be efficient. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 SBCs needs this method to scavage best. Also tube dias, as I ran 1-3/4", where it seems a smaller primary dia might be better, if you run the exhaust velocity-in-pipe calculation.

 

That's kinda sort of like the Fenton manifolds/headers.

 

Are you racing? Are you trying to gain a 10th of a second to set a record?

You asked for my opinion so here it is... It should be just fine for street driving. Will it lose power above 5000 RPMs when the gasses start to backup? Maybe. How often do you really operate above 5 Gs on the street? My cars haven't been above 5Gs for years and then only for a second until I shift gears.



I built these to look like old style headers from the early sixties. They may not be the absolute best but they are a hell of a lot better than the brick exhaust manifolds that came on the FE. I think it's a waste of time to fret over potential fractional HP losses on a street driven engine.

 

Thanks to everyone for the responses. As I said early in the thread, the car is a custom that won't get driven too hard. Normal freeway & around town stuff...

I'm going to run the two center tubes straight down the middle. It won't be much more work than doing it the way I had sketched up.

There is room at the "gaping hole" towards the firewall. Getting there would require starting from scratch and building one myself. Maybe I'll do that later. For now, I'll make the cheap headers I have on hand work.

Thanks! The ability to get honest opinions from you guys is invaluable.

 

much better

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/s-b-chevy-clipster-headers-plain,5618.html

Wouldn't take much to move the one tube that might be close to the box

 

Totally. That brings up another question: How close is too close?

I'd imagine these old steering boxes were made to handle heat. The stock header wasn't THAT far away although I admit, I couldn't tell you what the factory clearance was. I've seen 'em almost touching on other folks' cars (which is likely too close).

So what is it? How much heat can a 195x power steering box safely take & how close can a header safely be? I bet I'm not the first builder to ponder this...

Thoughts?

 

Air is a very crappy transmitter of heat, get some air space, allow for engine movement and you should be OK. 3/4" should be right in the ball park

 

Center two straight down and merge. Great way to solve this one!