Having a body dipped for rust/paint removal...PROS and CONS???

My avatar coupe was chemically stripped 30 years ago and the paint is still as applied. Chemical is way better, it gets ALL THE RUST but is must be properly done.

 

Thats gonna need a shitload of bracing before it comes off the frame to be dipped!

 

You might not get much back from the dipper. Can you find a better body tub to work with ?
Resurrecting that old girl is going to be an adventure.

 

Bingo...

The place I use not only neutralizes it but also dips in on OSPHO as well. Haven't had any issues. And my PPG rep knows and hasn't said anything about it. They bad thing is it takes all of the rust away and you will be surprised as to where there are now holes.

 

Years ago, there used to be a Redi-Strip of Puget Sound, in the Georgetown area of Seattle. I took the doors and trunk lid from my 56 Chevrolet bracket car in. There was an old gas class Anglia there also. They dipped the entire body/frame of the Anglia together. I don't know how the frame stayed attached to the body when they pulled it from the tank. It had been so rusty, had so much bondo, and had really "hacked up" type of work done to it, that there was little of the car left. I bet the owner was just sick after seeing it. I had the hardest time getting ALL the chemicals out of the seams in the doors/trunk; the chemicals would leach out no matter how much I washed them. But, they were absolutely free of ALL rust and paint. Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Well, there you have it. Weld off the old paint and rust
BTW, no one wants to hear about your 2". My condolences

 

Back in the '80's, a friend of mine was building a '53 Ford F100. He had the body dipped then proceeded to build a show stopping show truck. Within a year, he asked me if I wanted to buy it. As a joke I said I'd give him $3000 for it. He agreed which floored me. I asked him why? He said the acid was bubbling the paint and he felt the truck would fall apart eventually. He ended up trading it for an old Porsche 912, which wasn't woth anything back in those days.

 

It's already been braced a lot.

I don't have a current pic and the floor isn't skinned yet, but the bracing is in. It's in the factory locations, but is made out of rectangle tube and thick steel, instead of trying to recreate bracing by bending and sandwiching sheet steel like the factory did.

Since the car was not really supported at all, we used straps and jacks to get the body "square" and adjusted the doors so they closed nicely. Once the doors were in a good position, we welded in what you see here:

 

could you tell me who you had dip and e-coat your project. Looking to find a place before i purchace a project car, thanks.

 

The hood on my 41 had rust I could not remove sanding so I took it over to American Metal Stripping (I think that is what it is called) over by Jubitz Truck Stop in Delta Park. They did a fine job and I saw several car bodies while I was there in bare steel. Nice people, helpful and fast.

One word of caution don't google "Portland area strippers" on your wife's computer.

 

I always have at the clowns who say "but you won't get much back if it is real rusted" You frigging didn't have anything to work with to begin with if it was that rusted out.

Back in 2013 Steve Frisbie (Steve's Auto Restorations) had the Ron Dunn shoebox Ford at the Portland roadster show as it was bought.



In 2014 at the roadster show they had it in bare metal after it was stripped.







I'm thinking that the same shop that did Billy's hood did that car. The cost isn't cheap by any stretch remembering what it cost to have my hood stripped in Tacoma before it was Louvered in Bremerton in 1981.
Ideally you would stick it in an oven the same as a powdercoat oven after it was all dipped and rinsed and bake any moisture out of it.

 

Restoration specialists in Franklin Wisconsin.
(414) 529-1515

 

https://metaldipping.com/

Gordy

 

I've also used Restoration Specialists with great results on the recommendation of @kabinenroller.

@johnnystang you didn't fill out your profile so we don't know your location

 

How old are ya ?! (Why you axe)
IF you're in your 60's or 70's like most of us....why go to the expense of removing EVERY piece of rust on EVERY section of the car ?! POR-15 the spots you can and roll on.
When you die your wife is gonna sell it no matter what she sez now.............jus kidd'in...not...prolly!
POR-15 when applied to THE RUSTED AREA will turn it to glass and perserve it (but you know this prolly)
It should preserve it for 10+ years before it "might" come back !
What do you care when you're dead .... or too old to drive?!
You DO KNOW this is coming...right !
Enjoy it as soon as you can........let the next young stud streetrodder worry about it after you...............uh.....go.
6sally6

 

Note, never ever buy a car from 6sally6.

 

As mentioned above I highly recommend Restoration Specialist in Franklin Wisconsin. They have been doing work for me for quite a while with zero issues.
The key to a good job is preparation!
After the parts are chemically stripped they should be ecoated. ( you don’t paint a part without primering it first do you?) After ecoating the surfaces should be scuffed with a Scotch brite to promote adhesion. I have never had issues after the process, over the years I have had many parts and bodies stripped.
Here is my Cyclone with the body stripped ( fenders and doors have been ecoated already) and the body after ecoating. I normally have the parts stripped “80%” then bring them back to my shop for metal work, when the fabrication and metal work are completed I send the parts back for a final strip and ecoat.

 

One of the big things I liked about our local place is they dip it in a neutralizing bath after the acid and then will dip it in OSHPO as well.

 

My dad had his T Tudor sedan dipped 20 years ago. All bodywork done in lead and an absolutely beautiful paint job put on the body. Within a few years acid came of the seams. Terrible.

20 years later the dipping industry may have significantly approved. No e-coat for my dad, for instance. That said, his result makes me never want to dip a car.

 

Or especially his wife!


I get what he is saying, though. Some cars are worth going the extra mile and dipping/ecoating, and some just aren't. But the older I get, the more inclined I am to spend my remaining time only on cars that are worthy of going the extra mile for.

 

I dipped my '29AA more than 30 years ago. They finished it with Ospho and I followed their instructions to get it in epoxy ASAP, then in high-build primer when I was ready. I've since sealed it after finishing the body work and sanding down to 400. No rust after all these years, but I'm still not on the road yet.

 

I had my 5W dipped at Redi-Strip in Des Plaines, IL way back in ‘72 or ‘73. I let it sit for a while, then washed it down and used Metal-Prep to give it a final clean, primed it inside and out and nothing has ever leached out on it. I’m pretty sure the Redi-Strip process included a neutralizing dip but that was a long time ago
The cost back then? $90 !!!, and they knocked off $15 for damage to the belt line on the drivers quarter panel where it was struck by their forklift.

The photo was right after we brought it back to my garage. Obviously I wasn’t much of a photographer with my Kodak Pocket Instamatic.

 

I won't do a dip, better to blast

 

Why? You can't just drop that on your 3rd day here and not explain.