Register now to get rid of these ads!

have you used CLR to deal with surface rust ???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by JAKE'S-Pumpkinella54, Oct 16, 2010.

  1. Can you prove it with pics ? I've been searching how to deal with surface rust before grinding away . i wanna limit grinding to a minimum . and there no money for dip or blasting . this is a clr thread thanks guys . know some who has clr it . tell them to post . thanks .
  2. wrench409
    Joined: Oct 16, 2006
    Posts: 372

    Member Emeritus
    from Here

  3. holy shit guys ., i just started clring my international... dude it removes rust as if it was dirt . I mean the heavy stuff ... its has already started saving me money in roll locks and paper . try it . and tell them .jake sent ya .
  4. Road Runner
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,257

    Road Runner

    CLR is mostly water.
    From the Material Safety Data Sheet:


    Glycolic acid is a safe mild acid mostly found in skin care products, which also can be used to remove rust stains, but is no more effective than vinegar, citric acids or molasses.
    Sulfamic acid works well to remove calcium, lime and hard water deposits.
    The next ingredient is a surfactant.

    CLR is a mild and very diluted household product and sold for a relatively high price, because of marketing and packaging.

    Oxalic acid crystals (aka. Wood bleach in hardware stores) work really well to remove rust and makes gallons of cheap, effective and safe rust remover in comparison and for the same price as a 28oz bottle of CLR.
    It is safe even with the softer metals and can be reused until depleted.
    Heat and agitation increases effectiveness.

  5. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 8,645


    Any dangers to using this wood bleach?
  6. PeteFromTexas
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,837


    From what i can remember those are the same basic ingredients that we use for our acid bath. It works really well.
  7. Road Runner
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,257

    Road Runner

    I have used it forever in woodworking to clean wood after steelwool, especially when using water based dyes or stains.
    It's not really a bleach, just a prep cleaner for wood.

    But its my favorite rust remover because it works better than the mentioned acids and is still safe.
    Just protect your eyes and skin and work in a well ventilated area.

    You can mix it to desired strength and just make small batches at a time, which will last for a long time.
  8. This wood bleach you speak of. Is it easy to find?
  9. gc427
    Joined: Aug 10, 2009
    Posts: 122

    from SoCal

    Hardware stores carry wood bleach
  10. Road Runner
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,257

    Road Runner

    All my local hardware stores carry it.
    These are the two brands selling the same crystals in 12oz. containers for around $7.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Didn't mean to hijack this thread, but if an acidic cleaner is available in a grocery store, there is probably something better in the hardware store for less cost.

    If you need something stronger and faster than oxalic, go with Muriatic acid (HCL diluted at 30%).
    It's used to clean swimming pools and concrete, but is very caustic and is not so safe.
    Also in the hardware stores.

    Also its best to neutralize metal treated with acid using washing soda, available at the grocery store, in the detergent aisle.
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2010
  11. k-member
    Joined: May 25, 2002
    Posts: 2,114


    baking soda will neutralize acid with a quikness.
  12. Road Runner
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,257

    Road Runner

    Washing soda is a stronger base than baking soda and more effective using less.
  13. Leevon
    Joined: Oct 5, 2009
    Posts: 400

    from Nixa, MO

    I just bought 5lbs of oxalic acid crystals from evilpay for $18. Can't wait to get started "de-rusting" everything I can.
  14. Road Runner
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,257

    Road Runner

    Keep it as hot as you can and keep it flowing around the metal.
    Works cold too, just takes much longer for the chemical reaction to remove the rust.

    I descaled and removed the rust of my old engine's cooling system, earlier this year.
    Kept it in there and ran the engine for two days.
    Amazing how much rust and crap came out.
    Now the engine stays cool even under heavy load.
    I tried the same procedure with straight vinegar before, but it didn't work nearly as well.

    Prestone used to sell an engine flush kit with oxalic and washing soda powders at 9 and 2 oz. each.
    Not available anymore, but you can still make your own.
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2010
  15. good to know. more info is better right? im just saying clr was like 18 bucks for a big tub and made 15 gallons. worked for me.. ill try the wood bleach too tho
  16. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,360

    from Wa.St.

    If soaking a block what will it do to aluminum pistons AND cam bearings?
  17. slepe67
    Joined: Jan 22, 2008
    Posts: 1,146


    I used the washing soda with the electrolysis experiment. Worked OK, but took FOREVER, and was pretty labor intensive (to get sett up and tear down)! Going to try the wood bleach. Worst case, I use it for my old intakes, heads, etc.
  18. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,776

    Gearhead Graphics
    from Denver Co

    Nice, wood bleach. I've thought of CLR before, and have a big jug of muriatic in my garage,, my uni even has a bit of rust I've been needing to take care of. Thanks for more great tips.
  19. jambottle
    Joined: Apr 11, 2003
    Posts: 559


    what works the best to clean aluminum ?
  20. thaugen
    Joined: Sep 18, 2007
    Posts: 174


    CLR and oxalic acid work about the same, as far as I can tell. I used to use oxalic acid to clean rust off the stainless steel trim on my saltwater boat, and it was pretty innocuous, rubber gloves and eye protection. After using electrolysis, I'd say there is no comparison with these mild acids. Electrolysis is cheaper and works better, just set up your plastic tub with the parts in it and a battery charger and walk away for a couple of days. When you come back the rust is completely gone with minimal scrubbing. I found the acids take a lot of scrubbing to get down through the layers of rust.
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2010
  21. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,360

    from Wa.St.

    Again, do I have to take out the cam bearings first or not?
  22. BTTT, doing some research today.

    Anybody had any luck with wood bleach on large sheetmetal partss?
  23. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    from BC

  24. Smokin' Joe
    Joined: Jul 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,001

    Smokin' Joe
    Member Emeritus

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!


Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.