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Projects Haulin' ass in fiberglass

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mr T body, Nov 1, 2017.

  1. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,814

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Little tiny zip ties every two inches like an aircraft.
     
    loudbang and cktasto like this.
  2. 10 years ago I bought a glass 29 roadster and started a 2 plus year build. Joined the H.A.M.B. in Aug 2008 and had no Idea of the true meaning of a traditional car. I learned alot in the next 10 years and most of the help I received came from the people here. I enjoyed my roadster and would encourage anyone who can't afford or can't find an original " real steel" body to build what you can afford and enjoy it. Like some one else said, most of the cars here don't fit into the true sense of traditional.
     
    wicarnut and loudbang like this.
  3. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    I hear ya. With all due respect to the HAMB, what is considered "traditional" doesn't work for my builds. In this car's case, I'm building a street legal race car with a vintage appearing body. There may be traditional elements included, but functionally it isn't. Hat's off to those that can build a traditional car, but I can't leave anything alone and often go off on tangents when I build.
     
    wicarnut, loudbang and Bandit Billy like this.
  4. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Tie wraps it is. I have to get some Molex connectors in before I can finish the dash harness, but can at least lay it all out and finish up my home made schematic. tie1.jpg
     
    droppedstepside, OFT, swade41 and 3 others like this.
  5. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 6,887

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Here is a little trick I picked up somewhere, if you take your soldering iron to those trimmed plastic wire ties you wont lacerate your hands when you reach under the dash to change a bulb some day.
     
  6. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Great tip, thanks. I'm toying with the idea of making the whole dash panel pivot at the bottom so when the top bolts are removed the whole panel folds down. The days of me rooting around under dashes are long gone......
     
    OFT, loudbang, Old Dawg and 1 other person like this.
  7. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 13,810

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    I'm hip to that!
    I hinged the fuse panel on my roadster to fold down, no standing on my head under the dash since I had two vertebrae fused in my neck.
    That's a great idea.
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  8. flatheadgary
    Joined: Jul 17, 2007
    Posts: 818

    flatheadgary
    Member
    from boron,ca

    the wiring looks great. real pro. i am just going to say this because you probably know it already but gauges need to grounded because 'glass won't.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  9. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Thanks. The black horizontal wire in the pic is a 14ga ground wire daisy-chained between the gauges. The water temp and oil pressure are mechanical, so those grounds are just for the gauges lights. I'm using a LOT of LED's in this car so I can use 16ga for most circuits and there's very little draw from all but the major circuits.... headlights, water pump, cooling fan and ignition. Even those are using relays so the circuit controls are low amperage.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  10. new dash 001.jpg all pics 169.jpg Here's what I did. Wire ties and grouped the wires in three main groups and installed plug ins to make it easy to pull the dash if needed. The dash is from a 31 or 32 Studebaker modified to fit. new dash 001.jpg all pics 169.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    The wife's '31 is done and ready for her to show, so it's back on this. Been going back and forth about what diff carrier to use and decided screw it I'll put a lightweight spool in it to get it going.
    The body is unbolted, but before I could do that all the BS square tube reinforcing the previous owner welded in had to be removed. A couple hours of fun with the cutoff wheel and sawzall and the body's ready to come off. After that the trans and block will be married and put in place to set drive placement and angle. After THAT'S done, out comes the sawzall again to cut out the firewall and front of the floor.
    I'm itching just thinking about it......
     
    loudbang likes this.
  12. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 30,598

    loudbang
    Member

    YAY back to MORE POWER build. :)
     
    1947knuck likes this.
  13. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Pulled the engine down to bare block so the body can come off to set the placement and drive angle. The piston's .020" in the hole, so it'll need to be zero decked, but there's time for that.
    Spool and gears came so it's fun with differentials time this week...... piston.jpg spool.jpg
     
  14. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    I really wouldn't enjoy doing this without a press, but glad I don't have to.
    First step is take a carbide stone to the face of the ring gear and spool to make sure there's no nick, burrs, etc. Glad I did.....
    ring1.jpg
    Pressed the bearings on the spool and mounted the ring gear.
    ring2.jpg
    Checked runout and I don't think I can get much better than under .002".
    ring3.jpg
     
  15. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Gonna be a big weekend. Body comes off, diff goes in and first stab at placing the engine and trans. I'm flashing back on the YEARS there was a bare '31 frame on the other side of the garage........:eek:
     
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  16. Gasolinefed
    Joined: Apr 17, 2018
    Posts: 105

    Gasolinefed
    Member
    from OR

    If I’m not mistaken bluey the bible car in how to build a trad hot rod is glass.. so..
     
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  17. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Again in English?
     
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  18. Gasolinefed
    Joined: Apr 17, 2018
    Posts: 105

    Gasolinefed
    Member
    from OR

    If you don’t know mike bishop and Vern tardel wrote a book called how to build a traditional ford hot rod that allot here hold in asteam.. the model a roadster featured in the book turned out pretty great imo and it happened to be glass.. I believe mike called it bluey because it was shod in blue paint.. I may have been gently needling some inconsistencies in philosophy..
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2018
    loudbang likes this.
  19. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    In the beginning of this thread I addressed "traditional" and my builds. You should ignore my posts, 'cuz this won't be. I don't follow well either. I build what I want and am not constrained by building other people's interpretations. Read more HAMB before your 6th post........
     
    loudbang likes this.
  20. Gasolinefed
    Joined: Apr 17, 2018
    Posts: 105

    Gasolinefed
    Member
    from OR

    That wasnt meant as a slight towards you at all more towards the purist who praise the book and throw in the trash what isn’t authentic..
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2018
  21. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    We have separation! Engine and trans are roughly where they need to be, so now to modify the reinforcements and get the mounts in. I'll finish setting up the diff and get it in tomorrow so all the angles will be set.
    frm1.jpg frm2.jpg
     
  22. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    End of the first real weekend of work. Diff is set up and installed, eng/trans is in position and 2 hours spent removing the rear brake drums the PO PRESSED on the axles. The oxy/acetylene set paid for itself today. I'll be going rear disc sooner than planned.
    This week will be fine tuning drive height/angle and cut/trim motor mount brackets and tack them in place.
    rear1.jpg rear2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2018
  23. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    So, I have the final placement figured out that'll give me 3* down on the engine and a good driveshaft angle. Problem is, the brackets that come with the motor mounts don't give me a warm fuzzy feeling when it comes to keeping 700 horse in place. That means it's off to the metal yard for some 1/4" steel plate to make up my own brackets. My plasma cutter isn't up to plate that thick so looks like it'll be fun with cutoff wheels.
     
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  24. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    I've been looking at fuel cell in-tank pump modules and can't see spending $400 or more for something I can make myself with spare parts I have around. I think this will be one of 2 projects I'll start this weekend. The other is making and tacking in the 1/4" steel motor mount brackets since the plate will be in today.
    Pics later....
     
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  25. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Progress on the motor brackets. Severe overkill, but want to make sure it'll hold up to 700 horse and more if I throw it at it. Driver's side is roughed in and motor positioned. Passenger side tomorrow and tack it all in.
    mnt1.jpg
     
  26. flatheadgary
    Joined: Jul 17, 2007
    Posts: 818

    flatheadgary
    Member
    from boron,ca

    how about motor plates?
     
  27. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Not in a highboy.
     
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  28. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Finished fabbing the brackets. Gotta do some beveling and tack them in place, but good enough for a weekend project.
    mnt2.jpg mnt3.jpg
     
  29. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Got the brackets tacked last night and put the motor down on the frame. The right level, but crank centerline is off 1/16". I'll do the finish welding tonight but I'm already starting to itch just thinking about cutting out the firewall......
     
    loudbang likes this.
  30. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,154

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Done! Engine is on the frame and sits exactly where I want it. I'll tack the brackets to the frame and do the finish weld when the engine comes out again.
    mnt4.jpg
     

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