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Projects Haulin' ass in fiberglass

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mr T body, Nov 1, 2017.

  1. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Finally some progress. Found my trans but it'll take a week or two for it to get shipped here. Kinda ugly too.
    c6.jpg
    Can't do much until it gets here and mock up begins, but does give me time to select the motor mounts to use. These are Tinman's and I like that the bushings aren't close to the block and will be close to the rails. With the amount of torque it'll produce, it needs to get to the ground as effectively as possible. Not talking massive horsepower here, but 7-800 horse and 600+ ft lbs of torque need something a bit more stout than street roddy mounts.
    [​IMG]
     
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  2. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Spent considerable time yesterday and at great risk to my liver looking over and planning where this car will go. Was going to keep the firewall in the stock location and just make a 4" recess, but had a vision yesterday. I'm moving the whole damn firewall in 4". It'll require cutting the firewall perimeter away from the cowl, moving it all back 4"...... trans tunnel, toe kick and all. It'll look cleaner and actually be easier than a recess.
    There won't be any reinforcement around the doors or windows since it just won't be required. The roll bar will be designed with tabs to mount hinge and striker posts. This is going to be EXTREMELY light since the only real weight will be drivetrain and frame. Just the absolute requirements to be street legal, no need to add weight with carpet or fancy interior panels.
     
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  3. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Not a lot I can do before mock up, but got the front shock mounts on today. Had these stainless brackets left over from the '31 build so today was a freebie.
    shk mnt.jpg
     
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  4. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Was digging thru the cabinets today and think I found the cure for the fabricated valve covers. Found a set of chrome "Power By Ford" valve covers that need to be re-chromed. They'll need a set of 1" spacers to clear the roller rockers and girdles, but I like the contradiction (my trademark apparently) of hotrod and original factory hipo. I think I'll be throwing "Ford blue" around a few places to carry the "stock" theme.
     
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  5. mikeallcars
    Joined: Feb 16, 2012
    Posts: 1,316

    mikeallcars
    Member

    like your build building a 32 5 w glass car also
     
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  6. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Trans is on it's way and ordered the electric water pump and Tinman motor mounts today. Gonna be cool mocking this up and hacking up the firewall and floor!
     
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  7. Beaner, you are a true "word smith"!!
     
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  8. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    So, hear me out before you judge. I don't want the trunk lid hinged and don't much like Dzus fasteners so came up with this. I used a QuikLatch on the '31 dash and was impressed with the holding strength. These are about twice the size of that one, but will using 4.... one on each corner. Yes, they're blue but there's a real good reason for that. This car will be painted and I already picked the color.... Cobalt blue (I LOVE that color). These should blend in pretty well once it's painted. Just push the center and it pops up..... push the panel back down and it locks. So to access the fuel cell and battery will take about 10 seconds and the lid will weigh about 3 pounds total. This will be on a serious diet throughout the build to make it as light as possible.
    decklid1.jpg
    decklid2.jpg
     
  9. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,902

    dumprat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from b.c.

  10. flatheadgary
    Joined: Jul 17, 2007
    Posts: 823

    flatheadgary
    Member
    from boron,ca

    figure8 and loudbang like this.
  11. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    I considered that route, but this is one of those compromises..... a little more weight but since this will be "street driven" should hold up better after the mods.
    The short tail C6 is on the way so it's a done deal. The short tail C6 is only a couple inches longer than the short tail C4 so I'm good with it.
     
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  12. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Well, the trans is here and something was noticeable real quick...... there are different short tail C6's. This one must have come from a 4x4as it has no provision for a speedo cable. That doesn't bother me too much as I drove by tach for years. I have a line on another short C6 from a 2x that has a speedo cable that is pretty inexpensive. I guess I'll start hoarding short C6's........
     
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  13. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Mounts came and bolted them up to see where we go from here. The red sections are where the frame rail is with the top of the rail being level with the pan rail. Planning on pulling the body this weekend and starting block/trans position. Might break out the sawzall and cut out the firewall while I'm at it.
    mount1.jpg mount2.jpg
     
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  14. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Spent the evening cleaning the trans up. This version is 27-1/2" from bellhousing to the end of the tailshaft housing. Compare that to the standard C6 that's 33-1/2" saving me 6" in length. That means 2 really important things.... the drive angle is better in a short wheelbase car and the engine can sit a little lower in the frame with less centerline angle. Another added bonus is there's no slip yoke on the trans tail..... the yoke is bolted to the output shaft and the slip is splines on the driveshaft itself. Should be stronger and take more HP reliably.
    Oh, and figured out the speedo fix though it's not traditional. Going GPS speedo with one that looks relatively conventional.
    c6-2.jpg
    speedo.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2017
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  15. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,150

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Well, I guess it ain't going to rust out any time soon.
    Fibreglass has the potential to help keep our hobby alive way into the future when original steel bodies become unobtainable or too expensive purchase and repair...
     
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  16. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    This is absolutely true. As the ones that grew up with these get older (die off), have more disposable income (to drive the prices for real steel up), it creates a huge barrier to entry. Fiberglass helps with the "look" of the cars, but SEMA selling out to regulators helped kill the hobby instead of helping. So now you can buy an emissions legal drivetrain, but other than a belly button car, what's left? Vintage parts getting older, more rare and expensive, so there's no aftermarket support and innovation.
    All this is why I'm building what I can right now. Not enough people in positions of power with enough foresight to do what's right long-term.
    Sorry, rant over.
     
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  17. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Ordered the seats today (Xmas sale, free shipping... couldn't resist) and went with the Mastercraft Nomad (thanks DDDenny). I'm giving up about 10 lbs per seat over a race seat but want something somewhat comfortable when it's on the street. As it is the car'll be too light to race in any classes so it'll probably just be brackets.
    I need these to start laying out the frame reinforcements when the body comes off this weekend.
    [​IMG]
     
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  18. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 14,270

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    :cool:
     
  19. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Seats came so spent some time mentally laying out other components. I'm going to have to compromise on some things that will affect how I can use this car. The roll cage will not be to NHRA spec because I really can't see getting in it without a swing out side bar. Problem is, the rear hoop sits about 8" back from the door opening so the front of the bar would only swing out about 12" if I have it pivot on the hoop. What I'll be doing is stub the bar out 8-10" and have the bar pivot there.
    It's going to be a bit cozy in there if I have a passenger, but it's still doable if they can fit in the seat. Next up are the 5 point harnesses so the reinforcements under the floor can be laid out. seat1.jpg
     
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  20. shortypu
    Joined: Dec 22, 2010
    Posts: 185

    shortypu
    Member

    Great build,luv the big ford engine.I like your seat choice,they should keep you firmly planted.My seats don't have the sides like yours and I tend to move around a little when agresseve shifting under full throttle.My seats are mounted to a low 6pt bar with 4pt harness. IMG_4197.JPG IMG_4196.JPG IMG_4201.JPG
     
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  21. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Thanks for posting.... gives me a couple ideas I hadn't considered before. I like how you mounted the seats to the low side bar, but I don't think I can afford to raise the seats that much (helmet/hoop clearance).
    Time to grab the tape measure and head to the garage.......
     
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  22. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Looking for this to have a more "traditional" look, so ran over to American Rebel for a couple wheels to mock up. 15x4-1/2" Starburst on the front and 15x12 Sprints on the rear fit just fine. Could go wider on the rear but want to run M&H 30/14.5-15 cheater slicks and these are just right. Haven't decided on as-cast or polished yet.
    whl1.jpg
    whl2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2017
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  23. shortypu
    Joined: Dec 22, 2010
    Posts: 185

    shortypu
    Member

    Those wheels are bad ass.I also wanted a more 60s look with mine but I went with 4 1/2 front and 10s in the back torque thrusts with firestones. American Rebel builds a very nice wheel.I had these wheels already on my OT 69 mustang ,but im thinking about changing up to Rebels and you just swayed me even more. IMG_4272.JPG
     
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  24. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    I'm already a fan.... have big and little Sprints on the '31.
    20170910_154139.jpg
     
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  25. shortypu
    Joined: Dec 22, 2010
    Posts: 185

    shortypu
    Member

    Those flat caps just make those wheels.That sir is a very nice model a.I wouldn't even paint it.Im not painting my 31 project,but it was painted in the 60s so doesn't have the cool patina yours does. IMG_0847.JPG
     
  26. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Thanks! It won't be painted or cleared... it is what it is. It WAS painted in the '60's..... with a brush. The outside will be what it was and continues to be. The rest is all new and my special brand of contradiction.
    Cool yours is a period AV8. You should probably have my license plate "31A V8".
     
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  27. k32t
    Joined: Jan 2, 2011
    Posts: 294

    k32t
    Member
    from Hog town

    glassed one together myself
     

    Attached Files:

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  28. k32t
    Joined: Jan 2, 2011
    Posts: 294

    k32t
    Member
    from Hog town

    glass in back steel in front
     

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  29. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,174

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Started filling up the trunk cell.jpg
     
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  30. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,902

    dumprat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from b.c.

    Nice! What make is the tank?
     
    loudbang likes this.

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