Projects Haulin' ass in fiberglass

The conversion bearings are to put a carrier with the 28/31/33 spline bearing ID in a 3.25" center section. The 3.25" center is used in 35 or more spline applications with a 2" ID bearing. Thinking that at some point in the future I'll need to step up to 35 spline axles, so will just need to change the carrier and re-use the center section.

 

They do make axle bearings so you can use 31 spline big bearing axles in a small bearing tube and you can get 31 spline small bearing axles also

 

Yes they do. The conversion bearings on the carrier (traction loc, spool, etc) are on the center housing though.

 

I have one of these in my '31 from a 1972 motorhome. Unfortunately, running a 460 block means finding a suitable trans is just that little bit more difficult.

 

if you can find a trans with that out put you can always swap it into a 460 case

 

I can find a FE short tail, but really don't want to get into hoarding C6 parts/trannies just to put one together. At this point I need the trans to mock up the drivetrain and locate the mounts. Tight working quarters don't make it much easier.

 

Ass, Grass or GLASS nobody rides for free.... l love its the way to go and what I can afford..

 

No turning back now. I thought Sanderson had to make these up, but apparently had them on the shelf. Can't tell from the pics, but those CJ's needed the 2" primaries on the block huggers, and they tuck in TIGHT!.

 

At this point in a build I tend to spend a LOT of time staring, measuring and staring some more to get a mental image of what's going to go where. It tends to make the beers in the fridge evaporate too.
Here's about where it'll sit in the frame (but lower obviously). I'll have to recess the firewall around 4" depending upon the bellhousing clearance. A bit more weight bias to the rear, water pump and oil pan clearance are all good things. Another good reason I need the short tail C6.

 

Works for me!
You might consider a pair of "suspension seats" like mine, they are made by Mastercraft.
They make them for off-road race trucks, these are what they call "prerunnner" seats.
Very light, compact, comfortable with many widths and options available, I opted for lumbar adjusters and seat heaters as my roadster will not have a heater.
These are available in high back and low back, mine are lowbacks.
I used black textured abs (1/8") for my door panels because as you said; all it has to do is go fast.





https://www.mastercraftsafety.com

 

No judgemet,I'd rather spend $100k on a house not trying to build a 32

 

Well, that pretty much IS the definition of judgement, but no big deal. I fell into the roller, had the engine, and am using a bunch of leftover parts from the '31 build. I want to go back racing and it's either in this or the one I was planning on..... a '68-9 back-halved Fairlane fastback with this engine. It's about racing not going slow traditionally.

 

Thanks for the link. Looked through what they offer and looks like the Nomad would work for me.

 

DDDenny, where do you get that back, textured ABS, and will it hold up to sun exposure?

 

DOM
ABS sheet is usually available in most metro areas, we have TAP Plastics out here, which is where I got mine. As to the sun exposure issue; I personally don't know as my car is still in the build stage (has been for some time).
I think this was a 4x8 sheet, I did my trunk with it also.

 

Always wanted a '34 3 window, the cost of a steel body stopped me. So I bit the bullet & built a glass one, maybe one day I can replace it with a steel one

 

Dago 88 there's nothing to apologize about on that car, nice. DDDenny, my only experience with ABS and sun was with canoes, where they layer vinyl over the abs for resistance to sun. But that's been many years ago, and new stuff may be available now.
Mr. T, I have a good friend, hot rod oriented also, who has a somewhat smallish salvage yard that just might have one of those C6 short tail trans around, but shipping from here in GA to CA could be a problem. Seems like there should be some available closer to you, but if you like, I can ask him about it.

 

***

 

Be very careful with that center section, I usually don't tell people not to run a part, but those yukon aluminum pieces wont take very much abuse. Quick and Dirty should be able to show you carnage pictures of his when it exploded. Several other failures i have firsthand knowledge of as well. If you werent talking the kind of power that you are I'm sure it would be good to go, but i would tread lightly if i were you fwiw. Cool build though, i'll be following along

 

Thanks for the heads up. I didn't find a "Quick and Dirty" on the HAMB, but I can do more research on how suitable the Yukon piece is. The world wouldn't end going with a nodular center, but over the years I've learned to hate hefting cast iron centers into the housing. Less unsprung weight would be nice but not if it's going to come apart at the most inopportune times.

 

He goes by Dog-Patch.
It's in this thread.
/www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/dodge-this-1939-dodge-southeast-gasser-build.938352/

 

Tony(Dog-Patch) is a friend of mine. I can ask him for details if you want to ask him anything.
I have 2 friends involved in door slammer, NOS boosted "outlaw" type drag racing, both down into low 5s and high 4s in eighth mile. One has a Strange aluminum and the other another brand, Moser IIRC, and neither has had any problems.
Also, if you look on the HAMB thread for home built tools, there's a couple of threads about gadgets guys built to used in their floor jacks to lift 3rd members.

 

I thought the one Tony broke was not a bolt through.

 

I've hauled arse in fiberglass in the past, any moron can do it but I have slowed down considerably in recent years. HRP

 

You realize I'm a special kinda moron, right?

 

Not trying to spend your money but I looked at their website (first time in years), I see they made some changes in the seat names and styles, etc.
I did notice that they state the Nomad seat is imported, now I know how things can add up but I'd consider the Rubicon seats, about $75/seat more and as far as I know made in So Cal.
Just curious, did you choose the high backs because of your plan to drag race the car?
Could affect getting a comfortable seat tilt back angle and back panel clearance issues as well.
I know you are plenty experienced in building these things, just want to suggest giving extra thought into how you mount the seats as well as the safety belts considering glass cars can be a bit tricky in this department.
I noticed on my car that the seats mounted way too flat so made these angle mounts to tilt the front up slightly, pretty easy if you have a bandsaw, two pieces of rectangular tubing cut diagonally does both seats.


This is how the seats mount to the frame.

 

The Nomads looked interesting for a couple reasons. The highback isn't as high as some I've seen of this style, and the back across the shoulders has minimal bolsters. I don't fit into most race seats well because of my height and shoulders.
I'm looking at seats right now just for the reason you mentioned..... bracing the floor properly for them. When the drivetrain goes in for mockup is when the floor reinforcement will be tacked in. Gotta have the seats before that, so it's never too early to plan ahead, eh?

 

Zactly

 

Finally some progress. Found my trans but it'll take a week or two for it to get shipped here. Kinda ugly too.

Can't do much until it gets here and mock up begins, but does give me time to select the motor mounts to use. These are Tinman's and I like that the bushings aren't close to the block and will be close to the rails. With the amount of torque it'll produce, it needs to get to the ground as effectively as possible. Not talking massive horsepower here, but 7-800 horse and 600+ ft lbs of torque need something a bit more stout than street roddy mounts.

 

Spent considerable time yesterday and at great risk to my liver looking over and planning where this car will go. Was going to keep the firewall in the stock location and just make a 4" recess, but had a vision yesterday. I'm moving the whole damn firewall in 4". It'll require cutting the firewall perimeter away from the cowl, moving it all back 4"...... trans tunnel, toe kick and all. It'll look cleaner and actually be easier than a recess.
There won't be any reinforcement around the doors or windows since it just won't be required. The roll bar will be designed with tabs to mount hinge and striker posts. This is going to be EXTREMELY light since the only real weight will be drivetrain and frame. Just the absolute requirements to be street legal, no need to add weight with carpet or fancy interior panels.