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Has anyone restored a cracked steering wheel?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by PasoJohn, Jun 12, 2011.

  1. PasoJohn
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,487

    PasoJohn
    Member
    from Edina,Mn.

    I'm restoring my 58 Plymouth steering wheel. I have already used epoxy to fill the cracks in the wheel but the hand grips are all cracked. What other bonding material should I use to keep the grips from completely breaking apart. Has anyone restored an old Steering Wheel?
     

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    Moriarity likes this.
  2. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,535

    badshifter
    Member

    Many times. I use CA (Cyanoacrylate) from model hobby stores. It ranges from very thin, to wick into tiny cracks to thick, for gap filling. Also epoxy for the big cracks. But I use CA first, the thin stuff on all the cracks first as it really seeps in and holds the material together. It also dries clear, and there is a spray "kicker" or accelerator when you are really in a hurry.
     
  3. 54 Chevy
    Joined: Sep 4, 2010
    Posts: 362

    54 Chevy
    Member

    I have read about it several times but never done it. I have one that needs it. I havel been told that Eastwood makes a good kit for this.
     
  4. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,615

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    Yep, several, do a search many ideas many options.................
     

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  5. I did a 40 Ford steering wheel 10 years ago using J B Weld...
    sanded and paint..still looks good today
     
  6. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    What bad shifter says above is an excellent way to keep it all together. As far as filler, I have had great luck with JB weld's thicker two part "stick weld" epoxy from any of the chain parts store. It sticks well, doesn't stick to your fingers as badly which allows you to push it deeper into the cracks and crevisis. It also seems to sand much better than the PC7 or Eastwood epoxies I have used in years past for this.
     
  7. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,535

    badshifter
    Member

    Oh that reminds me, Loctite Hysol Epoxy just rules for stuff like this. Super strong, does not run and sands like a dream because it has micro-balloons in it. Really AWESOME stuff. I get mine from Graingers or McMaster Carr.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2011
  8. yblock292
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 2,937

    yblock292
    Member

    yep.......JB weld and Krylon!
     
  9. I simply bit the bullet and had the wheel in my Caddy redone professionally. It cost $600 at the time but it looked like new.
    [​IMG]
     
  10. PasoJohn
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,487

    PasoJohn
    Member
    from Edina,Mn.

    thanks for your information,I'm going to call the local hobby shop and check out some cyanoacrylate,I'm half way done with this info.
     
    Moriarity likes this.
  11. Use the JB Weld- "V" the crack out (most important part) and fill it with the JB, then just let it dry, sand it down, and paint.
     
  12. Automotive 3M panelbond works too. Gotta have special gun though.
     
  13. Mnhotrodbuilder
    Joined: Jul 12, 2010
    Posts: 1,140

    Mnhotrodbuilder
    Member
    from Afton, MN

    Seriously is it really that easy? Dang, I will have to rebuild one soon. I have been waiting for good ones to come along. Thanks for the info.
     
  14. Mr 42
    Joined: Mar 27, 2003
    Posts: 1,215

    Mr 42
    Member
    from Sweden

    whats this wheel from???
     

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  15. Ruiner
    Joined: May 17, 2004
    Posts: 4,141

    Ruiner
    Member

    My wheel isn't so much cracked as it is "shrunk"...now that I have a spare wheel from the parts car maybe I'll try and restore one and paint it...thanks for the info guys!...
     
  16. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,615

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    1941 Pontiac Woody only ...........................
     
  17. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,390

    Squablow
    Member

    The Eastwood kit comes with PC7 in it, so I don't personally see a need to buy their kit. I've used JB weld with good results but I think the PC7 works better as long as you give it a couple days to cure. If you don't vee out the cracks, the repairs won't last, no matter what stuff you put in there. The pics above look like there's some kind of clear filler just forced into the cracks, I would suggest grinding that all out and redoing it, the idea is to get your epoxy all the way down to the metal ring. Just like in welding, preparation is everything.
     
  18. mammyjammer
    Joined: May 23, 2009
    Posts: 512

    mammyjammer
    Member
    from Area 51

    I'm curious about the long term life of the cyanoacrylate glue.
    All of the plastic models I built using the stuff literally fell apart after a few years.
    I'm not saying it won't work on steering wheels, just asking the question...
     
  19. laloszephyr
    Joined: Aug 13, 2005
    Posts: 190

    laloszephyr
    Member

    I'm in the process of redoing my banjo that was pretty beat up. I Used pc7 after I applied it I waited about an Hr. I then sprayed acetone and did I final shape.[​IMG] saved me alot of sanding only because it made the pc7 into a more workable like clay.
     
  20. 59Custom300
    Joined: Apr 27, 2011
    Posts: 69

    59Custom300
    Member

    I was going to buy the Eastwood kit to do mine, but I have some JB weld just sitting here. Sounds like an easy project to add to the list, thanks for the tips.
     
  21. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,615

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    I use Marine Tex, wet your finger & you can model it and it sands the same as surrounding material plus it's very strong!...................
     

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  22. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,535

    badshifter
    Member

    I did my first wheel in 1984, using that method. I still have the wheel, and it's as good as when I did it. I've never had CA fail on plastic either.
     
  23. flypa38
    Joined: May 3, 2005
    Posts: 530

    flypa38
    Member

    What kind of paint is the best to use after filling and sanding?
     
  24. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,615

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    Base coat Clear coat.................................... after the epoxy primer and high build.
     
  25. Motornoggin1
    Joined: May 24, 2011
    Posts: 168

    Motornoggin1
    Member

    I have used a material called "Plast-Aide" with excellent results. I did a steering wheel for a '63 Safari, and A-pillar moldings for a Corvair. I sent the manufacturer photos of the A-pillar repair and they used it in a brochure. It's not easy to find though.
     
  26. carbuilder
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 982

    carbuilder
    Member

    Dose any one know how to do the pearl swirl type effect, Pearl craft is out of my price range.
     
  27. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,615

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    carbuilder, do a search and find the post that shows a guy making a form and pouring resine in it, sorry that's the best I can do 4 now! The guy took a piece of wood and routered it on his mill, finger grips and all, it was a very good "How To" but can't find it now. Maybe it rings a bell for someone here?
    If you followed his path you could use any swirl clear resine you wanted.
     
  28. duste01
    Joined: Nov 5, 2006
    Posts: 1,213

    duste01
    Member

    Still in experimental stage but I think I have figured it out. I'll let you know when I get it right.
     
  29. resqd37Zep
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,216

    resqd37Zep
    Member
    from Nor Cal

    Check out Dennis Cooks website. www.qualityrestorations.com.




     

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  30. LesIsMore
    Joined: Apr 8, 2008
    Posts: 455

    LesIsMore
    Member
    from Ohio

    PC7 Without question, its easy to work with, moldable unil it starts to dry and easy to sand, gets super smooth too. I had great results.
     

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