Has anyone had any problems with the set screws in steering joints?

I pulled the U joints of the steering rack on my Galaxie today and all of the set screws snapped off. I did have blue loctite on them, but they shouldn't have snapped off. The metal the screws are made of looked very porous at the breaks. These are Borgeson joints and they have never even been out in the elements. Is this common? Are there better set screws or should I use regular bolts?

 

Not quite the same thing, but I found that I was MISSING a set screw in my steering shaft universal joint. Thing is, I know for a fact that I put it in, set it with red Locktite, and torqued it down.

This was the typical steering "hex head" type with an aircraft nut on the outside!

 

Mine were definitely not coming out. I am going to have to drill them out. I think the set screws must have been poor quality.

 

Steel or stainless steel? I always make sure to use anti seize when using stainless.

 

Steel. I couldn't afford stainless when I bought them. Do you use loctite on yours?

 

I do on steel but not on stainless and make sure the set screw is long enough for a lock nut.

 

The thing is, each set screw broke at a different place. One broke at the bottom of the hole for the allen wrench, one broke under the lock nut and the other broke in the joint. All of them broke when I loosened the jam nut. There wasn't even loctite between the nut and the screw.

 

If the quality of the set screws was that bad, I wonder what the quality of the rest of the joint is like...Borgeson or not...

 

I would go to a local bolt supply house and see if you can get some quality USA set screws. Hopefully they are available.

 

Always use some kind of lube. on stainless be it locktite or anti seize because stainless will GAUL especially when removing the nut,screw,bolt or set screw. I may not be the set screws fault.

 

X2--I always use a lock nut on the allen with blue lockktite and never had any removal problem. A little propane heat will allow the locktite to soften and be removed if necessary.

 

i weld all of mine except for one or two so's i can get things out....on the ones i dont weld, i drill a divet in the shaft, then use some red....torch to get em out...thats on borgeson stainless

 

Some set screws have one way"barbs" on the tip, That's good for safety, but they can be hard to remove.

 

had this problem with flaming river joints. they went to s.stell screw and locknut, relaced all of mine, they sent them to me free. question is wether to use loctite on them or not. some say never use loctite on s.s. i used the milder version, so far no problems

 

Some use high strength Locktite on the splines to u-joint and shaft to U-joint connections. So long as the joint is tightened before the Locktite cures I see no problem with that. Should adjustment or disassembly be required heat will be needed. Heating the u-joints isn't going to do them any good.

 

We use a lot of set screws at work. Foriegn = junk, use a USA brand name ONLY. In your case a pointed set would be adviseable, drill a small recess for the point. Make sure to use longest screw you can.

 

I am going to look into some new good grade set screws. I am afraid bolts would hit my frame or my headers. It is very tight near the bottom. I may use bolts for the rest of them.

 

Set ecrews is why you also weld U joints.

 

I did drill dimples in the shaft for the set screws. Well, I thought about welding it, but I was told not to get the joint hot.

 

Too much heat into the joint can be a problem.

When you don't know the alloy and carbon content of the materials, welding may or may not be appropriate.

Even if welding is appropriate, most people don't weld well enough to insure the connection will be safe.

 

Mine are welded and I drilled through each U joint and drove a roll pin through the shaft and joint.

The rack and column have the set screws with lock nuts.

 

Just to add to this post below.
When you get the defective ones out I suggest replacing with this brand. http://www.unbrako.com/ These are some high quality fasteners. Also check into different point's on set screws to insure you get the right style (cup, point etc.)

 

I'm with Gasser300. I'm not going to trust my life or my family's life to steering universals. I'm for installing pins and welding. Wrap a wet rag around the joint when welding. Never seen a joint fail because of welding. Too much ChiCom junk out there right now.

 

Per my earlier post, you need to know the materials being welded. Some steering u-joints are made from malleable iron. Welding one of those would be unsafe regardless of the rod used or the welders skill. Some OEM steering shafts are heat treated. Field welding one of those shafts would also be unsafe.