I'm looking to fix up one of those cool old Chrysler square wheels. It's got cracks and chips in the plastic and it's a hideous color of lizard-shit green. Anybody fix up a wheel back to stock look? How? I'm guessing that the new Krylon special plastic paint will do pretty well for the color but the breaks need real help. Anybody try something that didn't work? That's just as valuable to know. Any experience here will be a help. thanks Chris
I've done a couple with good results. Depending on the type of material it's made from, in you're case hard plastic, determines what to use to repair it with. On yours, use a two part epoxy for hard plastic. Dig down deep for good adhesion, and sand it just like bondo. But, I would use some type of urethane primer and paint if you expect it to last any length of time, the Krylon will not hold up to constant wear form your hands.
This is a very good thread on how to build a banjo steering wheel. May help you with the repair of your. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=344222&highlight=banjo Joe
I started with this I filed out all the cracks so that they had a "V" shape to them. I then used a 2 part epoxy and slathered it over the entire surface. Then used a hand file to shape the epoxy. After using the hand file, I then switched to sandpaper, first coarse grit, then a finer grit. I've got it in the car now, but it's not done. I'll use a skim coat of filler, then paint it with single stage urethane auto paint when I get the car ready to paint. I did the work about a year or so ago now, and it's held up really well. I just took this picture now...
POR15 Makes a good kit that I used. It comes with some directions. Follow hudsoncustom's directions, my only input is to tool the epoxy with a finger dipped in thinner to get it as close to the wheel surface as posible to cut down on sanding. This stuff ends up being harder that the wheel itself. I spent alot of hours sanding and shaping...save yourself! Here's my before and after. Every spoke was cracked at the hub and the rim, including some rim cracks at the top. About 60 hours.
Cracks filled with epoxy, primed with black DP epoxy primer, and painted with Centari pitch black/hardener.
No, it's a 55-57 Lincoln wheel. I also spread the epoxy on with a finger to keep it smooth and keep the sanding/shaving down to a minimum. Good luck!
As I see it, the two most important things are- bevel every crack so the lines don't keep coming back, and it is important to use an epoxy that has a similar "hardness" or flexibility to the material used to make the original steering wheel. Both are VERY important to keep the cracks from showing through the paint later down the road. I like the POR kit (I am a dealer). There is one thing I have done a few times when re-doing an old wheel- Several times I have used JB Weld instead of the POR Epoxy. The POR Epoxy is very tough and rock-hard, but if it is too much stiffer than the original wheel material, I worry about it resisting flex even more that the wheel material, and showing lines in the paint after a few years. (I have NOT done any side-by-side tests) When I think the wheel plastic has the same "hardness" of JB Weld (not as hard as POR Epoxy), then I use JB Weld. That way the patch and the original material have the same resiliency and same amount of flex so they don't pull away from each other during use. Others may argue with this, but I want the patch material to match the characteristics of the repaired wheel. That's how I decide what epoxy to use on each wheel. In my view, it stays put better when you do it that way. My advice would also include a good Urethane top coat for the wear resistance. If you can't get the right color in Urethane, do it with enamel, then Urethane clear it. In a couple decades I haven't yet worn thru the color in my family-car Hawk. The outside paint is getting pretty bad from age and sun, but the wheel is still wearing fine.
I used J B weld and painted it with the same HOK paint I put on the rest of the car. It's held up for about ten years now.
heres 2 Lincoln wheels that I did , used PC7 to repair the cracks , the tan one has the wrong horn button......
Mine looks great now, originally full of cracks and dings. I filed out all the crackes to make them bigger, then got the 2-part epoxy/magic stuff that the bowling alley uses to fill bowling ball holes prior to re-drilling! The guy in the pro-shop gave it to me for free when I told him it was for a Studebaker wheel. After mixing, and filling, the fun part was filing, sanding, shaping all the contours. Turned out great, but requires patience. That stuff takes paint very well, and is probably very similar to the original material used for the wheels in the 50's.
Here's what I did BUT probably won't help you much for a squarish wheel. Just free info! . Still have to fill in the 3 bolsters.............. LKow&Fat......... never seen a wheel like the tan one, what year? Very nice! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=340314
I've done a few with PC-7. I don't see the need to pay for what I consider an expensive kit. I can find my own popsickle sticks and sand paper. I've had good luck with undercutting the cracks. Basically inverting the bevel. My theory is that with the crack wider at the bottom, the repair will be less likely to pop out after the epoxy sets up. I use a bare hacksaw blade to undercut it and get fresh clean material for the epoxy to adhere to. If the crack is old and exposed to the weather, I bead blast the crack to remove any rust on the hoop. Again trying to get the best adhesion as possible. I have some well over 10 years old with no problems. I got this Merc wheel pretty cheap because it had a lot of cracks.
I have used the Eastwood kit before its good for minor stuff but if the repairs are major I actually recast them. I used to buy cores off Ebay and do this in my limited spare time. You buy the resins and mold making materials from Smooth On, google them. Its been years and I was going to do my T Bird wheel but my lungs are so messed up my wife went ape over the thought of me messing around with the chemicals. Recasters charge about $1000-$1200. Repainters are around $250-$500 If you think you have good skills for details you can easily learn the recast method and start a nice little side buisness.
I used PC-7 on my F-100 wheel and it worked great. It was painted with the same BC/CC paint used on the body of the truck, and it's held up like new for a decade now. The results will only be as good as your prep work, though - it took a LOT of shaping with riffler files and sandpaper to get the curves just right.
i used a product by a company called Aves (sculpt) 2 part putty. you apply it and smooth it out with water. hardly any sanding to do.
Black or white MarineTex may work just as well, you can get it at any boat repair shop................
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