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Projects Hand Made Intake...Webers on a 332

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Ron Falk, Nov 9, 2016.

  1. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 5,403

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    Speaking of cams the OP will have to look for a wide lobe seperation, with as little overlap as possible to prevent reversion at high rpm. Inglese suggest cams with 112 lobe seperation or wider up to 115 degrees.
     
  2. ghornbostel
    Joined: Jan 3, 2012
    Posts: 131

    ghornbostel
    Member

    Cam was a concern when I did my motor. It occurred to me that reversion at high rpm to Jim Inglese is 8000 rpm. Looking at grinds it was apparent that the state of tune I was looking for, the cam to do that ran out of power at 5500 rpm. When I questioned about reversion, I was told by a few Weber tuners that it probably wouldn't be a problem at below 6000 rpm. With the hood and air cleaners off I have observed the carbs at that rpm and didn't see reversion. Also over the span of 30000 miles have I not observed raw fuel inside the air cleaner boxes. This is my experience and only something for you to consider. The cam is a Crower 282 and has 107* lobe separation and 26* overlap.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile appp
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2016
  3. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 5,403

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    Good seat of the pants feedback, thanks for sharing! I doubt too, that when I get mine going I will not be buzzing 8k for the concern of reversion.
     
  4. Ron Falk
    Joined: Nov 4, 2016
    Posts: 35

    Ron Falk

    I can certainly tell you this will not spin over 6000. The good news is that the Crankshaft is good,and the old cam is good to grind with. I should have those back in a week or two. I will press on with the Manifold later this week...Then there are a few less important projects.... I have to get an FE Flywheel drilled yet,and figure out my motor mounts.. I am wondering if it is worth the money to get an Aluminum flywheel..This Lincoln one is 8000 Lbs!!!
     
  5. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 9,124

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    If it's 8000 Lbs you better stay with a steel flywheel.
     
  6. Mike VV
    Joined: Sep 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,386

    Mike VV
    Member
    from SoCal

    YES...looks good so far, but DO make the runners flush with the inside of the plenum box.
    Then, put a LARGE bead of weld on the outside of the runner to plenum box, then with a grinder, form a nice large radius inside for the fuel/air to be able to roll around a radius rather than a hard corner.
    Hard corners are NEVER good in heads or intake manifolds.

    Mike
     
  7. Ron Falk
    Joined: Nov 4, 2016
    Posts: 35

    Ron Falk

    Welll...we are finally back in business on this whole set-up. I had to scrap my aluminum manifold...and went to Stainless...as my Tig gave up the ghost.. This will be pretty much the same as I used the templates from the old manifold,but will be polished when its done. I am still waiting for my Cam to come back,and for the Crank to get here..so at least I have some time. Next week,my head palte material should be here...and the runners are already being polished here at the shop.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  8. drtrcrV-8
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,043

    drtrcrV-8
    Member

    Would you care to discuss how you arrived at a '59 Lincoln and 332"? The last Lincoln Y-block was '57, & Lincoln didn't come in 332", although between Lincoln & F-8 Ford truck parts(up through '64) you could probably come up with that number. What block, what bore size, which crank, what stroke, what aftermarket rods, etc???Also what year /size heads?
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2016
  9. jvpolvere1
    Joined: Aug 19, 2016
    Posts: 176

    jvpolvere1

  10. H380
    Joined: Sep 20, 2015
    Posts: 376

    H380
    Member
    from Louisiana

  11. Ron Falk
    Joined: Nov 4, 2016
    Posts: 35

    Ron Falk

    Hi,sorry for the delay. It is a truck motor out of an F600.
    It looks like I may be scrapping the whole project though.....the machine shop called...and nobody can get .030 bearings for her.I cannot justify welding the crank....its just too costly..Might be time to count my losses on this one :(
     
  12. mrhp
    Joined: Nov 19, 2006
    Posts: 200

    mrhp
    Member
    from MICHIGAN

    Found some bearings on fee bay. I would add a link, but don't know how. Just search 332 y block bearings. That's how I found them. Good luck.
     
  13. Ron Falk
    Joined: Nov 4, 2016
    Posts: 35

    Ron Falk

    Thanks for all the info...I went down all the avenues from everyone here...and got some NOS bearings headed my way! Thank god for this site...Im just a youngster to these old motors...and need all the knowledge i can get!
    Thanks
     
  14. Ron Falk
    Joined: Nov 4, 2016
    Posts: 35

    Ron Falk

    I stand corrected...it was an F-800.
     
  15. mrhp
    Joined: Nov 19, 2006
    Posts: 200

    mrhp
    Member
    from MICHIGAN

    Great news! I hate to see somebody hit a wall on a build.
     
    Ron Falk likes this.
  16. glrbird
    Joined: Dec 20, 2010
    Posts: 389

    glrbird
    Member



    Royce Brechler (they misspelled his name) knows tons about these engines and parts. He can be found at www.y-blocksforever.com (RB) , nice guy and some one you should know.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2016
  17. drtrcrV-8
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,043

    drtrcrV-8
    Member

    Was the cam gear drive or timing chain? Suggest '57 Lincoln or Mercury TP Cruiser heads(largest 'stock' valves) The truck crank should be forged steel(good thing!!), instead of cast Nodular Iron(cars), the rods should also be better, Like I mentioned earlier: check '57-up trucks(& Schoolbusses) for intake manifolds that take "modern" Holly bolt pattern carbs(also good source for 'Rams-Horn Ex manifolds). You probably have other ideas, but always good to know possible alternatives, 'just-in-case'! Also, look up RICH FOX (he's played with these motors a bit as well). Also how to use FE Bellhousings/Flywheels on these motors.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  18. drtrcrV-8
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,043

    drtrcrV-8
    Member

    ALSO : I'm glad to see someone else who's not afraid to try something different : WELCOME to the "DARKSIDE" of hotrodding!! Anybody can mess with Chevys, but it requires DEDICATION to go out into the dark with an "Unpopular" motor that your friends & relatives will ask "Why you messing with that piece of S@%%# ? It's so much safer/cheaper/easier to drop a Chevy in it & go!" They just don't 'get' it! SO :Welcome to a place where you have to THINK/do your own research/ build it your own way! AND REMEMBER TO HAVE FUN DOING IT!!! LOL!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  19. Ron Falk
    Joined: Nov 4, 2016
    Posts: 35

    Ron Falk

    I will be running the Truck heads for now...I had them milled down,and will keep an eye out for the better heads.I did get the Ram Horns with it,and they will be going on as well.It looks like I will be putting the whole Enchilada together over Xmas break.My Crankshaft and Cam just got done,and my bearings are finally here!! The Crank is the Forged Steel..I had to take .040 off the mains,because it was the only available bearing..I also have an FE Bell..and will more than likely use a lighter FE flywheel and get it Re-Drilled.
    I still need to get the Intake plates back from the machine shop though...but thats the easy part. I wonder what kind of power this thing will make.I had a 272 in the old Fairlane..The 332 is punched.040....so that should put me at like 341....or close.
    I cant wait to fire this thing up!
     
    timmy2times likes this.
  20. Ron Falk
    Joined: Nov 4, 2016
    Posts: 35

    Ron Falk

    I have never done so much research in my life...LOL
    Thjanks for the help!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  21. drtrcrV-8
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,043

    drtrcrV-8
    Member

    In many ways you've gone a lot further with your build than I did some 50yrs ago: all I did was drop some 11.5/1 x .030 over Jahns cast pistons into a '57 Lincoln 368, home ported the heads, used an adapter to put a later Holly on the small base manifold, used the '57 exhaust manifolds, added a Vertex mag, Then dropped it into a '53 Lincoln 4dr sdn. with the stock Hydromatic. In it's day one hell of a sleeper, especially on top-end, but very tame by your build(or so many others today)! The mid-range torque will surprise the hell out of you!!(suggest you read Smokey Yunick's theories about rod length vs stroke for an answer)
     
    loudbang and timmy2times like this.
  22. Ron Falk
    Joined: Nov 4, 2016
    Posts: 35

    Ron Falk

    Ever since I was a little kid...I have had a thing for Torque. When I was 13 working at a campground...one of the guys there had a 70 chevelle with a 454...He gave me a ride ..and made it one to remember. Since that day...I have always wanted a motor that would rip the tires at 25 going through town(Bad huh..LOL) I think those memories drive people to build what was cool when they were very young...I know that's what drives me...and the history behind the old engines cant be beat..At a car show......all the older guys turn into kids..and share some pretty wild stories! That's what I really am looking forward to.Thanks for al the Input,I will post Pics as I get closer here in the next few weeks
    Ron from Frozen Wisconsin
     
    loudbang likes this.
  23. glrbird
    Joined: Dec 20, 2010
    Posts: 389

    glrbird
    Member

    I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but those ram horns will not work if you are putting it in the Fairlane. You need rear dump manifolds or custom built headers.
     
  24. Ron Falk
    Joined: Nov 4, 2016
    Posts: 35

    Ron Falk

    I guess making some exhaust flanges might be in my future too then...I guess I have some Ram horns to part with then..LOL Thanks for the heads up!
     
  25. glrbird
    Joined: Dec 20, 2010
    Posts: 389

    glrbird
    Member

    If you are going to build headers, I would recommend fender well style, things are pretty tight with a y-block and isn't going to be any better with that engine. Time and patience, its all doable and will make a great street car.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  26. Ron Falk
    Joined: Nov 4, 2016
    Posts: 35

    Ron Falk

    Things are bumping along in Lincoln land....and everything is in place to start assembling this thing....except my flanges for the intake...hopefully next week i will have this block smoothed and ready to assemble...its going quite well
     

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