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HAMB Airbrushers school me please

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by gasolinescream, Dec 21, 2011.

  1. gasolinescream
    Joined: Sep 7, 2010
    Posts: 614


    I'm after some advice as a first time airbrusher.

    Self taught striper of sorts and really want to learn another skill. I enjoy striping and i think i'd enjoy messing with an airbrush. Big fan of fogged panel jobs, fogged trim, paint effects, lace, flake, etc, etc. I have a heap of things i could practice on and a mountain of ideas and be nice to do something on my current car.

    I already have a new bench compresssor tucked away somewhere, i bought it 2 years ago when i first thought about it.

    Question is what airbrush gun is best to buy and any books out there worth reading? I don't have a huge budget to play with and a complete novice, so pro equipment is not really needed. Just want to get enough kit together to be able to start having a play.

    I will read up on it alot more but just hoping for someone here that knows their stuff on airbrushes and can give me some good advice.

    Thanks in advance

    Regards Dan
  2. Good luck on your new adventure.
  3. Dan
    Airbrushwas all the rage a few years back here in the HAMB. I don't know that a search would net you a lot of information because sometimes if it is real old it is real hard to pull up. maybe something in the tech archives.

    Someone on here will know for sure. A lot of artists. Give this another bounce on friday when the artists are all showing off their stuff.

    You no doubt are already familiar with the pinhead lounge? if not you may register and find some info there.
  4. 60galaxieJJ
    Joined: Dec 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,525


    iwata makes THE BEST airbrushes and you can find them on craigslist fairly priced, best stater one id say if you dont want to spend more then $90 would be a iwata revolution CR. its what i started with and was able to paint some pretty wicked stuff with it then i upgraded.

    it all really comes down to just staying with it learning how the paint reacts and what not.

    heres a pic of one of the things i did a couple years back with the revolution cr

    also look into buying or looking into craig fraser's dvds and check out losts of good stuff and pinstriping

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  5. Bilt
    Joined: Jun 23, 2011
    Posts: 311


    Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS is what I started with and still use. Two pictures from the first time I ever used one. Painted these within 8 hours of picking up an airbrush.

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  6. 73super
    Joined: Dec 14, 2007
    Posts: 778


    Just like striping ... practice, practice, practice. Watch some You Tube videos too. Draw up your own ideas, cut out some templates and just go for it man. The more you do the better you'll become. Just remember .. with airbrushing.. less is more. Don't try and over do it. I think you'll be amazed with your results even starting out. Airbrush is fun.. don't need to be a pro right off the bat to produce great pieces. Enjoy.. good luck and post some of your stuff when you get the chance.
  7. Bilt
    Joined: Jun 23, 2011
    Posts: 311


    I had a buddy buy the set of five of these from Harbor Freight. It is almost the same as my Iwata gun. He learned with one of these $25 guns. I've used them and they really are not that bad. Bob Bond, who taught me, told us about these and I'm surprised. Item # 95810 on their web page.
  8. M_S
    Joined: Feb 20, 2008
    Posts: 542

    from SoCal

    Iwata Revolution and Eclipse. I have started on the Revo then bought couple of Eclipses, never had a problem.
  9. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,284


    Several years ago I taught airbrush lessons. This is what I'd tell my students. If your serious about airbrushing buy good stuff right away if the budget will allow. Once you get the hang of it you will want to upgrade your equiptment anyway so why waste money on a cheap airbrush when in no time it will be sitting in a drawer. Some times a beginner gets frustrated and dissappointed with his first attempts and it's the blame of a poor quality airbrush.
    Like others have said, can't lose with Iwata. My first Iwata was an Eclipse but in no time I moved up to an HP-C with the air valve, a really nice feature IMHO. Now days 90% of my airbrushing is with an Iwata Micron SB but I'm mostly doing illustrations with water base. What little I do with automotive paints I still use the HP-C for larger stuff and a HP-B for detail work. Can't beat them.
    If your already into pin striping I'll bet your going to dig airbrushing.
  10. I started with Badgers, moved to Passches, and then I bought an Iwata. I would agree with the others, the Iwatas work very well.
  11. I've been playing with these things for forty years: from an old Binks single action, through the Paasches and lastly a dual action Badger (almost twenty years ago). Dual action gives you much more control, but is a little harder to master, especially if you start with a single action.
    Personally, if I were starting now I'd go with the dual action and never look back.

    You're gonna be frustrated as Hell sometimes, but you're gonna have some fun too. Go For It!!!
  12. dinokruzordinance
    Joined: May 21, 2008
    Posts: 301


    Paasche vl #3 double action. Make a simple easel mount a dollar store papertowel bracket above pull down a sheet practice. Go through a whole roll. Ull know then if its for u. Bearair sells paasche no attachements $48. Buy a 10 foot hose - the 6 foot kit hose sucks and is too short. Dont buy a used brush first - people keave paint crap in guns ruin o rings ur buying a headache.

    Iwata hp-b rocks but at $189 get a volkswagon to learn on an a porsche latter. Neo is iwata sponsored hobby lobby econ line at $69 u can get a 40% off coupon all the time for HL or michaels. But....master the paasche and ull be a happy camper. Its solid dependable. Shots HOK one shot and t-shirt paint - I got 26 of em.

    Drills - dots. Lines daggers - preschool style alphabet guidelines to practices curly Ls and figure 8s . Distance air and speed are ur variables. Full throttle air practice easing back n paint trigger for flow then ease it off. Thats the trick

    I shoot 80 psi have water trap. Fabric easier to learn on than metal -

    I got pics in my albums of portraits and custom. No scratches.
  13. Gigantor
    Joined: Jul 12, 2006
    Posts: 3,825


    Another bump for the Iwata Eclipse.
    Airbrushes are a bitch to clean but well worth the effort to keep them in perfect condition.
  14. Retro Jim
    Joined: May 27, 2007
    Posts: 3,859

    Retro Jim

    Iwata make the best for the money . Very hard to beat them at any price !
    If you start with a cheap one , that is what your painting will look like too . They are all about the same price and for the few dollars more you will spend for a great Iwata , you just as well buy it and be done . You can also get any parts you will need for them too .
    You have to gave good tools to work with is you want great results !
    Just my opinion .

    Retro Jim

  15. dinokruzordinance
    Joined: May 21, 2008
    Posts: 301


    Iwata replacement needles are $12 paasche needles $4 . Ur gonna dink a bunch to start. Paasche vl is solid workhorse. Change the head to do thinner.or thicker fluids. Iwata is high end and the micron is bitchin but for $400 it should be.
  16. j_johnson
    Joined: Sep 15, 2008
    Posts: 119

    from Iowa

    I started with an Iwata HP-CS. I believe its the best airbrush to start with. It has the gravity feed cup on top. Its a great all-around airbrush that can do detail work up to a larger spray pattern. One thing starting out is be careful with the needle, the tip can easily get bent if your not watching where your laying your airbrush. To get the hang of paint control I practiced spraying straight lines, dagger lines, circles...etc. to get a good feel of how the controls work.
  17. azsnow
    Joined: Nov 16, 2008
    Posts: 51


    I bought my airbrush and compressor in a set off of eBay, and was getting into it when after only 3 uses my compressor took a crap. Well needless to say I have a ton of paint and two brushes packed in the garage...I need to get them out again I think!
  18. gasolinescream
    Joined: Sep 7, 2010
    Posts: 614


    Thanks for replies and advice. Lots of info on You Tube and no doudt alot of folks use them. Kind of hoping it will be the same learning as striping seems to be. Read up on it, ask questions, buy a starter kit and get on with it.
    I'm going with a Iwata Eclipse as they seem a good gun to start with and should fit my needs. There is a dealer close to here that carries all the spares. I'm looking at about £110 for the gun and a 10ft hose. Quick question for now.....

    What do you use through the gun, what paint,mix etc? I'd be looking at doing work mainly on car panels, helmets etc, pretty sure you know where i'm going with all this! I know its early to ask but need to source cheap paint, at least to start with.

    Soon as i can suss out the best paint to buy i'll get the ball rolling, buy some good books and get painting. Looking forward to this but i know already just like striping it can get really expensive the more you learn and play. All good though, it's what we do, could be worse.

    Please any info/tips/links etc that you think would help please shout up!

    Thanks again
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2011
  19. olpaul
    Joined: Aug 22, 2009
    Posts: 237


    This HAMB amazes me with the talent pool. What a resouce for younger folks just getting into the hobby, or old guys like me who get back in.
  20. Good question and very good answers. Will the douchebag who gave this a 1 star rating please stand up?
    Very good info. 5 stars!
  21. Gahrajmahal
    Joined: Oct 14, 2008
    Posts: 435


  22. Modeljunkie
    Joined: Sep 25, 2011
    Posts: 279


    I've got an Iwata CR and love it - I've used it for years now on the model stuff, maybe on a 1:1 car somday....needles may cost more but if ya don't bend them it's not a problem.
    I clean afterwards with lacquer thinner no matter what I just used for paint.
    Look up "airbrush real fire" or "airbrush real flames" ..there's an online tutorial that's kick ass...if you happen to like the "new age flames" that is.
  23. Bilt
    Joined: Jun 23, 2011
    Posts: 311


    As for paint...most of the paint you use to stripe will work in the gun. I prefer 1shot since it lays well and also is used when I stripe or sign paint. No need to buy different types which saves money.....and as for magazines check out "autoart". Very good mag and gives a ton of good information about laying lines, sign painting, and air brushing.
  24. hardknox66
    Joined: May 10, 2010
    Posts: 7


    I use just iwata brand airbrushed,and get everything I need from coast airbrush.they have starter kits that have airbrush,paint,and DVD.some kits even have a compressor also, so check'em out awesome prices and excellent advice that made me a loyal customer!
  25. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 4,401

    dana barlow
    from Miami Fla.
    1. Y-blocks

    I got a Passches with all my paper rout $ back in 1957,still have it and use it!
    Get something good not junk
  26. CH3NO2
    Joined: Nov 20, 2005
    Posts: 93


    Guys, I appreciate the info. This exact post was the whole reason for getting on teh HAMB tonight. My wife has gotten into striping, and has been talking about wanting to get into airbrushing as well. I was completly clueless on what to get her though. Does anyone have any recommendations for a nice, quiet, and affordable compressor for her as well? I'm clueless on this stuff, as it's more her domain, I'm just planning a 'late christmas' present for her.

    Thanks again, Gentlemen.
  27. hasty
    Joined: Jul 5, 2009
    Posts: 1,410


    Other things to think about when practicing:

    Masking often takes much more time than the spraying. Take as much care as you can and use decent materials and replace your blades often to keep a super sharp edge. If you don't cut through the masking in places it will lift the edge as you peel it ready to spray, so always check.

    A lot of media need thinning for use in an airbrush, so check for manufacturer recommendations or do tests before hand. Related to the viscosity of the paint, also test the air pressure. It wants to be high enough to atomize the paint but not too high. This can make the paint hard to work and can also lift the edge of some masking materials.

    When you are spraying the masking hides the material you are spraying over. Try to find a convenient place to lift he masking to check on the contrast as you go. Generally, be patient about lifting the masking, especially if it is a complex one.

    Keep everything clean - it is a bore to keep cleaning but you will save lots of time and patience in the process and it will work better.

    Use a mask with proper filters for fine spray. If you don't, blow you nose into a white kleenex and you will see why it is a good idea. The spray is very fine and is not good for your lungs.

    Like the others I have had a good experience with Iwata brushes (the CM range is great for fine pigments) but also DeVilbis and Pasche (but a lot more maintenance). I don't think that they are made any more but my DeVilbis MP spraygun has served well for larger areas - I prefer it to the my Iwata spraygun.

    When getting a compressor the larger the tank the better. My first compressor had a small tank and you could see the piston pulses in a fine spray line. Clean out the tank to get rid of condensate. I have had one (that said it was painted internally) rust through because I did not empty it often enough.

    A decent valve and moisture trap on the compressor are worth the cost. As someone above mentioned, Coast are good and if you go to their shop they are friendly and helpful.

    I would also echo the guy above who said to get the best you can afford to start with. I bought my first brush when I was a poor student and had outgrown it within the first couple of weeks. You really notice the difference with the feel of a decent brush.
  28. dinokruzordinance
    Joined: May 21, 2008
    Posts: 301


    You can use naptha to reduce oneshot for painting opaque on helmets etc. oneshot stands alone not.needing cleared after painting - most lettering on truck vintage style truck doors bomber art is using a oneshot style enamel. If u wanna do fades blends u have to use transparants. House of color makes some great paint and coast airbrush and ur local ppg dealer carrys it. The have small half pints and you buy can buy hot reducer and slow reducer. Part of has to do with weather humidity and dry time. u can over reduce ur paint so talk with ur supplier about what your painting the temperature of the paint area ur working in etc. hok also produces a pinstripe line of paint

    Intercoat clear is a good idea when doing complex hok painting along with the finally clear. A basecoat is also usually requited in white or black. Airbrushaction magazine is a good read as is the airbrush forum online. Dont dismiss tshirt articles as they are a great source of tech info and most painters start with tshirts including rhino . art alvarez . Chris cruz

    Oneshot has a media additive that makes ur paint appear flat not glossy for vintage style work.

    3/4 or larger compressor is needed for anything beyond hobby work. A 5 gallon tank or better provides u uninterupted air. U can buy a hobby compressor that runs full time but they pulsate and lack sufficient airpressure to do work (unless u decorate cakes). A pancake roofing compressor is suffucient.but ull find it gets hot with solid use. Satelitte auxillary tanks can add more air storage and less run time.
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2011
  29. BigNick1959
    Joined: Oct 23, 2006
    Posts: 638


    Ive been airbrushing since '74 and for the last 15 years have only used Iwata. I own a couple of Microns and there great for getting hair line detail but my work horse is a bottom feed Eclipse. I modified the needle on the Eclipse by twerling it and pulling it gently back and forth between a small piece of 1000 grite paper held between my thumb and fore finger. I then gently polish the the area with Mothers aluminum polish till it shines. This will let the needle go further into the tip and with this set up I can just about match the performance of the micron, real real close.

    I only shoot 1shot paint, and after shooting clean thinner through the airbrush I shoot some WD-40 throught it. This keeps the seals lubed and any paint left in it from drying in the gun. People think I'm nuts for doing that but I've never, ever had a problem with fish eyes, just shoot thinner throught it to clean out the WD-40 and your ready to paint. How good does that little trick work? I only take my brushes apart maybe 3 times a year for an in depth cleaning! And I push a lot of paint throught them.

    Good Luck and have fun with it.
  30. BigNick1959
    Joined: Oct 23, 2006
    Posts: 638


    I should say I sand the section of the needle where it takes the downward angle toward the point. You want to smooth out that "cone" shape and make a smoother transition to the tip.

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