Halibrand quickchange. Need help disassembling

What am I looking at? Please help

Trying to take it apart and I'm scratching my head. HELP





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It looks like a home made "flange floater" axle.

 

How might it come apart? I've put some pretty drastic force to separate the axle flange and the aluminum stiffener and got it separated about 3/8". But no go after that. Won't budge. And it locked up the rearend like something in the center section it binding. Any thoughts?


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I think Marty is right,home-made flange axle with the flange welded to the old tapered axle.In simpler terms,you are going to have to cut the weld on both sides where the flange is welded leaving you with a straight shaft,then dis-assemble like a normal banjo rear end[unbolt right and left housings slide them over the axles,then take ring gear,carrier and axles out.on the bench take carrier apart to remove axles,etc]Hope I'm wrong,but the photo showing the weld area in the center of the axle isn't encouraging!Any way to find the original butcher,oops I mean builder?

 

Did you try using heat on the axle? Not too much heat but enough to loosen the axle. Do the axle turn freely?

 

on your last photo can you slide something in the gap between the backing plate and the hub to see if the axle tubes still have the"snout" where the stock hub bearings ride?I suspect the stiffener is actually the hub w/bearing

 

the reason the rear is binding when you put pressure on the axle is you are forcing the side gears against the ring gear carrier.

 

I had to saw though the housing and axle on one side, to get an old Culver City with floater axles apart. The axles were stuck in the spool.

 

Is there any way to get to "c-clips" in the center section on a 201 quickchange? I know it's a stretch but I trying to think of every possible scenario.


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I was thinking they may be machined like 9" axles but now i'm not so sure.


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Nope no heat. Unless I'm misunderstanding you, I would heat what's around the axle to make the ID larger. Heating the axle would make it tighter in whatever the hub bearing stiffener thingy is.

It turns freely with the axle in against the hub bearing stiffener thingy.

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Also the spider gears may be locked. Spin the input and both wheel go in same direction. Turn each wheel and the other turns in the same direction.


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Bruce may have an answer for you but I think Marty has the right approach. Something is going to have to be cut.

 

Just in case the builder did use splined side gears, I would try a slide hammer. I'm thinking though, that Marty is probably right. You could try to cut the weld at the axle end. Does it look like he welded the nut on the flange and axle?
I've never seen that one, but who knows?
I don't know how much it would help but you could try this:

(QC manufactures and professionals please STOP READING NOW!)

You can remove the pinion (and lower shaft) without taking the axle housings off the center.
Remove rear cover, change gears and pinion retainer and front bearing cover. Support the assembly on jack stands or something similar with the back of the QC pointing down. Gently heat the case around the pinion bearing area with a torch.

The bigger the fire the better. I saw a video of guys at Frankland doing this, and I think they were using MAP gas. The flame was about a foot long. Keep the torch moving and eventually, the case will expand enough so the pinion will drop out. I have a wooden crate that I use to catch the pinion. The lower shaft rear bearing will also probably fall out. you may have to tap the lower shaft out the front. The front bearing should stay on the shaft.

It is best to keep the temp on the case below 350 degrees. You can check this with a temp paint stick or a laser thermometer.

Now that you have done all this, I don't know if you will be able to see any better what is holding it all together, but MAYBE!

 

Thanks guys. I'll try to post the answer to this riddle when I finally get it apart.


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Bruce has a great point, weld some bolts, or nuts to the axle flange, and use a slide hammer.

 

Or just use an axle puller with the slid hammer. I hope that he didn't weld you up a mess!

 

Bruce, If he pulls on the lug studs with an axle puller, he will be pulling on the hub, not the axle. That's why I recommend welding some bolts to the axle flange to attach the puller. I bet once the axle is removed, it will reveal a large nut that retains the hub. It's just a guess though !

 

Yes, I see now. I should never question you, Marty!

 

So what would be the damage on the center section or I guess the carrier if it does have stock banjo axles with gears attached?

 

No way of knowing what is inside until you take it apart. If the original builder put the rear end together and then welded the hubs to the axles, you cant take it apart to see without cutting it.

 

Was this common back in the day? I can't imagine doing that myself but...


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those look like the safety hubs which are welded to the axle and backing plates. Undo all the backing plate bolts and use an axle puller with a slide hammer and they should slide out. Be Gently though those cases aren't as tough as you think. If they don't budge sacrifice the axles and cut the ends off. then disassemble the whole thing and re assemble it with tapered Ford axles. Either way you are probably jacking with trouble on the ends for regular Hot Rod stuff. If you can keep your eyes peeled for a '36-48 Banjo and use all the parts inside the QC. I'm doing this again myself on an old Mag 201. They are well worth the effort. QC'es are bitchin'

All the best,
Tim

 

Long shot maybe but one of those $10 endoscope cameras that work on your smartphone or pc might help give you an idea of the internal setup through the drain hole. There's a separate thread on these amazingly useful items. I have one, works great, but haven't yet put it to serious use, but have inspected my own throat and nose!

Chris

 

I would say it was not common, no one on here seems to have ever seen it before. That's why we are all guessing as to what to do.
I've seen some at the track patch ups by welding stuff together to make the feature, but this looks like it was planned (sort of).

 

So is the axle side gear part of the axle shaft?

 

Yes, the original Fords were made that way. What we are all hoping, for you, is that someone replaced the side gears with some splined ones. That was fairly common.

 

My bet is that it has a spool, with pull-out axles. As the OP said, " the wheels turn the same direction, when turning each wheel independently". I still think it has a retainer nut holding the hub on, it will be interesting to see how it was put together.

 

I think the weld around the axle end on the outside of the flange is too good to be a track patch up. But I could be way off on that. Looks like very precise weld to me. I can't really think of a scenario at the track that would require that weld. The original keyway would have been in the tapered part that is gone. So if the flange originally slipped off, it would have to be splined or keyed. Seems unlikely but again I could be way off. Why would anyone go through all the trouble and then run a keyway? Not likely at all. And splines usually don't strip out. Something usually breaks before that happens.


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Tell me exactly what scope you have. Thanks


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