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Hot Rods Half Hood Project.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by fiftyv8, May 18, 2019.

  1. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 19,091

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I initially look at that and billet comes to mind but this could be right out of 1919's Patents...it actually looks aviation related and like the one I posted that is rodded it functions on similar principle.

    In either type your will need a lock at the opposite end in a form of pin or other holding/fastening devise...

    Painted or polished...I see potential.
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2019
  2. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Stogy, I think after what I am going thru the lock will be the least of my worries.
    I have found another hinge that looks a little more simpler to work out arm lengths etc.
    I don't want to speak too soon, but I have mocked up some ply and card board and it is looking positive with only a couple of variables to work out.
    That is unless I have missed something that I am not aware of yet.
    Fingers crossed and all that stuff...
     
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  3. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 19,091

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have complete confidence in you Fifty...;)
     
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  4. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Further searching and I have come up with this modified version of a C10 hinge that looks close to what I can start with.
    Probably a little simpler to replicate also.
    Although access to measurements which I don't have would make life much easier...


    Hoodhinges1966-c10autozone.jpg
     
  5. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 19,091

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That is literally Billet...it says so and looks it mind you it's your call. I thought the more simple one you showed looked fairly basic and passable as vintage and easy to make.

    The Bill one looks to have a built in lock...I may be wrong as I'm Ass...uming...:D
     
  6. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Stogy, I am not buying one, just looking for the principle of operation.
    These items are way out of my price range and more suited to top end street rodders and muscle car kind of guys I'd say.
     
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  7. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 12,253

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Any reason you can’t print this off and trace it into metal? Need to be bigger/smaller use a copy machine and try again.

    Could even make them from poster board or Masonite to test the arch
     

    Attached Files:

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  8. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Sadly, I've tried it with the drawing you refer by scaling as well as the other hinge lined up against the tape measure and in each case when I work my way thru the maths to double check my first arrived measurement, the check measurement is different.
    On occasions not by much, but still enough to be unsure which might be correct.
    However, with the C10 hinge (1960 to 72 from memory), there must be somebody out there who owns one of these who is willing to throw a few decent number at me.
    I have made a cardboard mock up of the C10 roughly and I can see it working, but actual dimensions would be awesome to obtain.
    I've even made a plywood firewall bracket that is clamped on and is a great base for testing once I am right with arm lengths.
    If I don't get these measurements, I will move on to fabricating a complete under frame for my hood and work it thru that way.
     
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  9. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 12,253

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    I think your over thinking it. Make one that exact size it prints out. I mean trace it line for line.

    Make it out of test material

    If it binds move the hole around until it’s correct. Correct meaning the hinge works, who gives a shit if it’s correct to the originally referenced part

    And then don’t fuck around with math just trace the new hole locations and use a copy machine to make it bigger until you get the one that works.


    Just be hands on and you’ll be done in no time
     
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  10. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Hey Tim, thanks for the boot up the rear end, I think you are right, I was getting a little bogged down in the detail.
    In a perfect world somebody by now would have posted the C10 hinge center to center dimensions for me and all would have been fine.
    So time now to implement plan B as you suggest...
     
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  11. Jokester
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 499

    Jokester
    Member

    Regarding your radiator overflow: I had the same shiny tank and same location as in your pics. I ended up mounting it to the block on the opposite side of the car. Longer hose needed, but solved the problem. On my coupe I made a tank out of 2 inch aluminum pipe which allowed me to shorten it quite a bit and retain the same volume. You have lots of options.

    Hope it helps.

    .bjb
     
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  12. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    What I did is take a copy of what I found on the internet and added it to my pic's folder, then resized it to about 1.2 times so the arm lengths are about what will work for my space.
    I then printed at the larger size, cut out all the moving components and glued them to some old cardboard.
    Once dry, I cut them out and took a 2nd copy of my pic and laid the cut outs over the pic and pinned the centers using staples and thumb tacks.

    I then took it out to my shop and held it in the rough location and took it thru its movement range and it seems to work pretty good.
    IMAG1650.jpg IMAG1649.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 23, 2019
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  13. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 12,253

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Nice! I over think things to the point of nausea I get it.
     
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  14. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Try to figure out now which would be the best bolt/rivet fastener for the pivot points...
    Any suggestions.
    I plan to use stainless steel for my components.
     
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  15. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 12,253

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Shouldered Rivit? I think that is what is in the old ford stuff
     
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  16. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    I've started roughing out my stainless steel metal components.
    Things may slow down a bit now as I am trying to work out what method I will use for the pivot points, rivets or bolts.
    I have ordered some sample Chicago nut/bolt combinations to see how they may work.
    Part of the problem is the Chicago items require an 8mm diameter hole and since I've scaled the original hinges down in size 8mm is starting to not leave me much metal around the holes.
    So that is why I say I have roughed out my metal with an extra width of material to see how things will fit and work.
    It is early days so I am not locked in to any one solution just yet.
    Fun all the same...
     

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  17. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Well folks, I am back I think.
    As long as the internet issues of the recent past are behind me I shall start making further progress.

    Not a lot to offer up right now, however I had determined since receiving mu Chicago bolt/nuts in the mail that head size was going to be a slight problem with one pivot point.
    That is the bracket to lower arm pivot point.
    I made an executive decision to relocate that hole position by a small amount as you will see in my attached pic, which seems to have solved the head clearance without affecting the movement wrong way that I can tell.
     

    Attached Files:

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  18. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    for anybody who is not familiar with a Chicago bolt, this it was they look like.
    In my case I am using a 8mm diameter bolt which by good luck seems to fit perfectly with a 5/16" diameter hole. Chicago Bolts.jpg
     
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  19. Slick Willy
    Joined: Aug 3, 2008
    Posts: 3,012

    Slick Willy
    Member

  20. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Slick Willy thanks for your link, nice work.
    Sadly, I don't have access to rolls and if I did they would not be at my shop.
    Nevertheless, I have my cardboard template cut out and ready to be used to make my flat sheet metal work piece.
    I should have the metal work piece cut out by the weekend and ready for shaping...
     

    Attached Files:

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  21. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    I cut my material a little short and then used an strip to staple on and get the front and rear gaps just right.
     
  22. jailbar joe
    Joined: Nov 21, 2014
    Posts: 374

    jailbar joe
    Member

    good onya russ i had every faith in you ;)
     
  23. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Thanks Joe, a little slower than I'd like, just taking small steps, but so far all in the right direction.
     
  24. I made mine using a cardboard template and bent it over a gas bottle then finished by hand tapatalk_1538293253798.jpeg

    Sent from my moto g(6) play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  25. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Yes, I have a gas bottle ready for the task, but since this afternoon have also turned my attention to a large diameter piece of thick wall industrial plastic pipe which may also be of some help.
    I will definitely need a 2nd pair of hands during this process from what I can tell.
     
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  26. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    I got my sheet metal cut generally to shape and now realise that I will need to get a couple of round objects mounted somehow so as to be able to roll the curves that I require.
    I have a gas bottle which is about 9 inches in diameter and have recently acquired a piece of large diameter (16") thick wall (1") plastic pipe plus two drive shafts (3 1/2" & 4" diameter).
    I am hoping with these choices I will be able to obtain the shapes that I require.
    I still have my eye on the power pole across the road from my house
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 29, 2019
  27. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    I continue to cover my bases by trying to have a level of organisation as I proceed.
    Since I don't have access to sheet metal rolls, I have been assembling several round items that may lend themselves to my shaping process.
    As round stuff can be a little tricky to work with unless tied down, I embarked on another side project of making a base to mount my round stuff so I can have two hands free to work the sheet metal.

    I just happened to have another piece of laminated wooden beam that was long enough to accommodate all my round items with the exception of my large diameter plastic pipe that I mentioned previously.

    I proceeded to make a gizmo that would support all my round pieces when required and allow me to quickly remove one and install another as preferred at the time.
    I made two brackets, at one end my bracket is just really a cradle with curves to suit what ever round item I am using, while at the 2nd end, my bracket is designed to support the other end of my item, plus retain it from sliding or rotating, which appears I have managed to achieve.

    Not rocket science, just stuff made from scrap...
     

    Attached Files:

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  28. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    A little more progress to report.
    I have started forming the curves, the shape formed quickly to a certain point and then it got tricky.
    I had to walk away rather than maybe push things to a point were I may regret my enthusiasm.
    I am thinking I need another diameter size to aid my progress further.
    For now both the gas bottle and Ranger drive shaft have proven to be most helpful...
    It is mostly the radiator end that is challenging me right now.
     

    Attached Files:

  29. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    It is pretty obvious from looking at my 3rd pic above that different radius curves at each end are offering some resistance.

    Upon further review of the situation, I have also discovered that while I am making good progress at both ends, the straight edge along the sides are no longer straight and are starting to gape/bow out.

    I believe I will need to make an extra gizmo to help me get these sides straight again.
    I am guessing that once they are straight I will in the first instance lose some of the gains I have made at the curved ends...
     
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  30. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    I have added a Model A Ford torque tube to my range of round items for forming my hood.
    After all, I got to be a little Traditional on here.
    The diameter size range I have to date is all good, but I need something just that much smaller in diameter and at 2 7/8" this will be very helpful to finalising my radiator end curves.

    In the meantime, I have also made a attachable straight edge that I can clamp with vice grips to each end of my drive shaft support gizmo's.
    It will work best with my Ranger and Jaguar drive shafts.
    I have used it with the Ranger drive shaft and was able to slip the side edges of my hood in between the straight edge and drive shaft and have more even pressure when pulling the hood around the drive shaft, which allowed me to get my curve very close to the side edge of the sheet and also to remove the bowing that had occurred during earlier rolling and shaping.

    I did however, manage to put a very slight kink line in my hood (with this straight edge) which I think I can remove later without too much trouble.

    IMAG1717.jpg IMAG1722.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2019
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