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HA/GR in Minnesota

Discussion in 'HA/GR' started by bobw, Jan 14, 2009.

  1. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    The engine and transmission are mounted. I hope the left side wheels stay on the ground!
    In the background on the right is the earlier model 225 I picked up yesterday. It will be a better engine to build than the one that is in the frame. Maybe I'll carry two engines so I can change between rounds, just like the big boys.:D
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2009
  2. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    The rear floor plate and differential cover are made from 1/8" plate the provide the required protection in case the driveshaft or differential decide to attack the driver.:eek: It bolts in. I still need to install a driveshaft loop. Gonna be a really short driveshaft. The factory installed Hurst shifter is visible and should work with just a little tweeking of the stick.
     
  3. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    A side view. The seat bolts directly to the floor. Now, the Pauli Exclusion Principle is beginning to take effect (Two solid objects cannot occupy the same space at the same time). Looks like the steering box bracket and the clutch pedal could be fighting for the same space.:eek: What other hurdles await this humble builder???
     
  4. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    I ventillated the motor mounts because they looked too bulky. The right side mount is tucked under the engine and not worth seeing.
     
  5. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    In my "stack 'o crap" I found a Model A pedal. After molesting it quite a bit and stringing some linkage together it actually disengages the clutch.
     
  6. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Another view of the clutch pedal. The ergonomics seem pretty good and it doesn't take much effort with the stock clutch.
    Using 1/4" plywood to make patterns the top half of the scattershield was built. I made all the cuts with a 4 1/2" angle grinder with cut off wheels. Next is the bottom half of the shield. The NHRA rule book gives little detail on acceptable home made shields. I sure hope a 2 piece shield is ok. I'll probabaly put triangular pieces on the back side to keep flying metal chunks from hitting my ankles.:D
     
  7. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,628

    97
    Member



    I didn't read the rule that said you couldn't put them both in at the same time!! ;);)
     
  8. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    The framing for the floor is mainly 3/4" square tubing. It is bolted in place in case I prove I can't shift. It will be easier to put an auto trans in.
    The scattershield is done except for welding. The top and bottom pieces bolt to ears welded to the frame.
     
  9. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    No aluminum here cuz I don't know how to weld the stuff. Still need to cut holes for the shifter and clutch pedal and make a transition to the scattershield.
     
  10. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    I'm thinking of running a tube where you see the green tape, to strengthen the Model T frame. What do you think about the look?
    97, Regarding two engines; not this project, but maybe the next one...2-292 Chevy 6's, side by side, Fiat body, hmmm...
     
  11. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,174

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    Don't think it really needs the reinforcement, but if it makes you feel better, go for it. As a late friend from back in my military vehicle restoration days would say, "you can make it as complicated as you want to".:D

    Just remember, pounds per horsepower is the name of the game.
     
  12. esfoder
    Joined: Jan 1, 2009
    Posts: 119

    esfoder
    Member
    from Oregon

    The speed this is moving along is inspiring!!!

    Great work bob keep it up


    Dusty
     
  13. SWEET SWEET SWEET!!!

    you is gonna have sum funnnnn!!!!
     
  14. Mr. Mac
    Joined: May 16, 2005
    Posts: 1,931

    Mr. Mac
    Member

    Lookin good BobW.You don't really need that extra bar,we tried it and it didn't help a bit.It's just more weight and that is the KEY factor in these under powered cars. If you can keep it in the 1250 to 1300 lb range you can be pretty competive,my thought anyway.
    Good luck on your build.
     
  15. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    To be honest I wasn't looking for more frame strength as much as a bit different look. With aluminum paneling in the shape of a "dart" I could name the car "The Dart". You can tell I don't have much imagination. Your point about excess weight is well taken. Thanks.
     
  16. CrkInsp
    Joined: Jul 17, 2006
    Posts: 513

    CrkInsp
    Member
    from B.A. OK

    Not only weight but think about how the air is going to flow around those panels as well as the car as a whole. Does it help or hurt?
     
  17. ThingyM
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 812

    ThingyM
    Member

    If you don't mind me saying this. The only thing I would add to your chassis, is an X member someplace. Like in front of you motor or something.. But that thing is really looking good....
     
  18. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,174

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    Nah...just add more holes.:D
     
  19. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,920

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    You are a very HOLY person :D
     
  20. Old6rodder
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,496

    Old6rodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from SoCal
    1. HA/GR owners group

    Nah, he's just holey. :D

    And it's definitely looking good ........... :cool:
     
  21. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,174

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    Actually, Patti says I'm "more holey than righteous".:cool:
     
  22. mmmm, I might have to pick up some 1.5"x3" tube this week... I got 200 ft +/- a few feet of 1.75" DOM sitting in the shop... can we run flatheads??? I'll have to check out the rule book. The old man down the road has tons of flatheads laying around, should try to talk him out of one for somethin like this...

    Looking good Bob, inspiring...
     
  23. ThingyM
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 812

    ThingyM
    Member

    Flatheads, by all means. Just no OHV V8s....Engines up to 1962,
     
  24. hehe, talked to him at church this morning, he says he's got a few 24 stud flatties layin around I could MAYBE talk him out of. I'm gonna be workin on him over the next few days.

    Bob, what did you do today on it??
     
  25. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Not much to show as I've felt like crap for about a week. Here is the view of the front cockpit, with a posterboard firewall, shifter and clutch pedal in place. I built the scattershield in a skewed shape and now I don't know why??? Too many handicaps, old, left handed and Polish. It will work fine, just looks wierd from the inside.
    I won't add the forward tubes based on popular opinion from experienced racers here. Will probably fit an X-member, or at least a K-member in somewhere though. Pretty soon I start the sheet metal intake manifold. Opinions regarding type and number of carbs would be appreciated. If I can sell enough of my junk, the dragster will get a pretty healthy slant by next year. So, I want to carb for that. Will probably have a removable top plate for changing the type and/or number of carbs.
    I asked about SFI clutches for the slant over on the Tech Thread but got no response. Anybody found one?
     
  26. Old6rodder
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,496

    Old6rodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from SoCal
    1. HA/GR owners group

    Looks like you allowed room for the slant's high mounted starter nose like we did.

    The bad news (unless you flipped the photo) is it's on the wrong side. :(
     
  27. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    Dick, I think is was the "Samer Theory" that caused it. If you live too close to large power lines, sometimes you can just go nuts! That's what happened & I'm sticking to it!
    It's a very nice scatter shield, it simply looks like it belongs in a Salvador Dali painting.
     
  28. Rand Man
    Joined: Aug 23, 2004
    Posts: 3,573

    Rand Man
    Member

    What's the deal with the clutch? I don't know much about Mopar, but I know you can build your own clutch. Get a ceramic, (not organic) paddle-type clutch disc of the right diameter. A local clutch specialty shop can rivet-in the right center section to fit your input shaft. Not a big deal, if they have the right equipment. Is the problem with the pressure plate? The flywheel could be re-drilled and that could be adapted too.
     
  29. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    Upon further review...I had to go out in the garage and remeasure the shield. It is horizontal across the top. The problem is I pulled the left side of the shield forward over the starter area so the shield is not square with the firewall. Because of the severe backslant of the top piece, the angle at the firewall looks severe. If you look at earlier posted pics of the shield you can see that the top is horizontal.
     

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