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HA/GR in Minnesota

Discussion in 'HA/GR' started by bobw, Jan 14, 2009.

  1. ThingyM
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 812

    ThingyM
    Member

    I'll tell ya what Bob.. At the rate you are moving along, You'll be on the race track before I will. And I've been working on my car over a year now..Young people and their energy.. Hard to beat..

    My seat area and roll cage is built to fit a 6' tall guy with 20" long legs..Know of someone built like that that would like to drive.?????
     
  2. bravo on the cage!

    all you gotta do is use the hinges that God put in the middle of your legs, bout half way between the hip and ankle. if'n yours don't work to well, i hear they make replacements....(wink)
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2009
  3. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Very well said. A little extra safety and we may be able to run these cars on left coast tracks for years to come.
     
  4. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Using a master cylinder that used to be in my Anglia, and an old hand brake lever, I made the brake setup you see here. There was a good HA/GR thread about brakes in these cars and I decided that a "pull" arrangement was best for me.
     
  5. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    The Saginaw box was in my International for a while. It's pretty small but not real light. From a 1930-something Chevy truck. I braced it to the firewall hoop and the shoulder bar.
     
  6. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    The spline end was cut off the original pitman arm and welded on a chunk of tubing with an I.D. that permits a socket with a long extension to tighten the pitman shaft nut. A new pitman arm was fabbed from flat stock. A steering arm eye from an old Pacer was used for the drag link tie rod connection. I'll add a nylon rubbing block at the shoulder tube if the shaft need more stability.
    I realize most of the guys on this site are great fabricators and that I am showing a lot of detail. I'm hoping that by showing the simplicity of building one of these cars and using parts that are laying around or easily obtained for little money, it will encourage those guys that are debating about building a HA/GR.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2009
  7. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,174

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    Love the details.......that's the whole concept of having a "build thread".

    Show people how you do it, it may not be the way someone else would do it, but that's a good thing and part of the beauty of these cars.

    Old style ingenuity and the spirit of garage built cars that has slid too far away from our hobby.

    Keep up the good work, you're doing fine and the speed of your build is an inspiration to us slow, "old guys":p
     
  8. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,920

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Lookin' good Bob, keep it up!
     
  9. REJ
    Joined: Mar 4, 2004
    Posts: 1,612

    REJ
    Member
    from FLA

    bob, if you try the hand brake and it seems not to slow the car down as well as you would like, extend the hand lever a little bit and it works wonders.
    I did a little research and found that most hand brake levers are between 16" and 25" long.
    I extended mine to 25" and it makes a world of difference.
    Not saying there is anything wrong with yours, just passing on something I learned the hard way.
    Robert
     
  10. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    Thanks for the comments everyone. Rej, I was wondering about the brake lever length when I installed it. I knew I needed a better ratio than with a foot brake. Mine is 21" to the pivot point.
    Do most of you put the battery box at the back, behind the seat?
    Do gel batteries, like the Optima, need to be in a sealed box?
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2009
  11. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,920

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    We have the battery under the floor board, no box, and have not had anyone ask about it's location. I have also wondered about needing a box with a Gel battery if our set-up is questioned.
     
  12. Old6rodder
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,496

    Old6rodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from SoCal
    1. HA/GR owners group

    We did that for the final design on our shift linkage, I think you'll be needing that bushing.

    Also, I believe one of the reasons for the boxed battery is to keep metal away from the pos post and help prevent arcing in an accident.
     
  13. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    The Google is a wonderful thing. I determined that even a gel battery must be in a sealed box if there is no firewall between the driver's compartment and the battery. Also, the battery must be bolted to the frame or crossmembers with 2 3/8" bolts. It cannot be simply bolted into the box.
    So, I made this framework to hold both the box and to bolt down the battery.
     
  14. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    The strap across the top of the battery utilizes long bolts that go into the threaded holes in the tabs welded to the crossmembers and holds the box and battery in place.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2009
  15. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Since my cheap crap air shear died again, I cut the 18ga. sheet metal into the right sized rectangles with an angle grinder and a cut off wheel. Then I welded and ground all the joints. There is no sheetmetal brake in my garage either so I bent the cover the old fashioned way; clamp the material and a piece of bar stock to the bench and hammer the lip. Ears are welded on the ends to hold the cover on tight. Once I put a strip of rubber around the inside of the lid it will be sealed. Next it needs a vent tube out the bottom and some grommeted holes for the cables.
     
  16. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    I had this chunk of gas tank left over from building a '25 Dodge Coupe. Downsizing it to 7" by 9" by 12" should be about 2 1/2 gallons, just like an 8" diameter aluminum tank. Only difference; this one will be free.
     
  17. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    After sectioning about 9" out of the sides, it looks like this. I took a break and called the junkyard to see if they had my engine and trans out and ready to pick up. They said they did, so work on the tank stopped.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2009
  18. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    When I got to the yard they were about half done pulling the engine & trans. I pitched in and in a short time we loaded the works in my S-10. Sure doesn't look like a fine racing engine. The trans is an OD 4 speed. I anticipate using 3 gears. The whole mess cost $200.
     
  19. Joe Hamby
    Joined: Jun 6, 2005
    Posts: 405

    Joe Hamby
    Member

    A newer light weight starter from a 318 or 360 magnum will work just fine. Nice motor. That oil pan looks like a pickup pan. Remember if you hop it up any, you will need to increase the oil capacity. Joe
     
  20. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,174

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    More Mopar!!

    Looks like a good start, looking forward to seeing the fuel tank, nice idea for making your own.
     
  21. ThingyM
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 812

    ThingyM
    Member

    I made my fuel tank out of some 18ga flat sheet metal, added a couple of baffles, And guess at about 2 1/2 gals. Sure looking good Bob..Free is the best price...Dick M
     
  22. C'mon, it's been a few days.....;):D do tell

    Cheers,

    Drewfus:D
     
  23. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Here's the trans crossmember, made from a couple pieces of rejected roll bar. The motor mounts are built but need some finishing before they can be shown.
    I found it is difficult to block a slant 6 level and square; it wants to tip over.:eek: I'm thinking I can have mechanical linkage for the clutch instead of hydraulic. It looks like there's room.
    The NHRA rule about shielding the rear end and driveshaft from the driver is a bit confusing. Sounds like it is supposed to be attached to the rear end and trans, not the frame. Anybody with a NHRA legal altered? You must have dealt with this rule? Any input would be appreciated. Dick (ThingyM) you've got a Fiat hiding in the corner, any suggestions for me?
    I'm also working on the scattershield design. I really like Drewfus' but I can't keep copying everyone.
    I just went through Team Geezer Speed's build. LOT'S of creativity there.:)
    I hope none of the guys in Oz are threatened by the fires. My son's fiance grew up near the town that burned.
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2009
  24. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Will PM you some pictures tomorrow of the setup on my altered. It's frame connected and has a safety plate welded in frame that covers the full area below the alum seat. I have ran this same setup for the past 10 years. This is one of NHRA rules that is more about the Tech crew in your area than the book. Make it "Safe" and well built like all of your work. How do you get so much done in one day? Following your thread is wareing me out. Tom W
     
  25. see this cover

    [​IMG]

    or this one on a car that has suspension (both attached to chassis)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Note: we have a tailshaft loop at either end of our driveshafts also as cheap insurance

    [​IMG]

    Keep it simple, it works, cost effective, and easy to build off should you need to.

    [​IMG]

    Note: I made up a simple accelerator pedal, and mounted it off heims screwed into the cover.

    [​IMG]

    I think all the HA/GR guys are fine, I know of a couple rodders from down south who have lost their houses/possesions, but more importantly they're safe. Pray for those who aren't as fortunate.

    Cheers,

    Drewfus
     
  26. 348chevy
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 431

    348chevy
    Member

    Drewfus, I look at the quality of your build and just drop my jaw. You guys are way ahead of me in the ability dept. I sure wish we were closer in miles. May God protect you from that awful fire. :) Roy
     
  27. ThingyM
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 812

    ThingyM
    Member

    Bob.. These guys just about have it covered.. Some I think is overkill, But you never know what one of those "Techs" will require from track to track..On my HA/GR im going up there with a 1/8"plate under my seat, and a drive shaft hoop.Let them tell me what they want..My Fiat has the minimum requirements. never was told that I couldn't run..And it's a gob faster than my HA/GR It runs in the 8s...
     
  28. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,920

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Since we welded the rear housing to the frame (hard to have a better anti rotation device than that) we bolted a piece of 1/4" plate over it for a seat and called it good. Rocky
     
  29. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,368

    bobw
    Member

    Thanks everyone for the advice regarding the shielding of the differiental and driveshaft.
    Andrew, I have all your pics in my HA/GR file and I know them so well I think I could work on your car blindfolded! I wasn't sure if NHRA here has the same rules as you have there. I am going to copy your scatter shield. It is elegantly simple. Nice job you did there.
    So, It's a trip to the steel yard tomorrow morning and then off to pick up another engine. The engine I got last week is a late model and has a cast crank and hydraulic lifters.
     
  30. Cool, glad their of some assistance, feel free to 'pop over' and work on my car anytime you want to....;):D


    I just copied the other guys, it works well for all that have used this method.

    Cheers,

    Drewfus:)

    P.S. more photo's please...:D
     

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