Register now to get rid of these ads!

HA/GR in Central Califas

Discussion in 'HA/GR' started by greasel, Oct 27, 2009.

  1. greasel
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 325

    greasel
    Member
    from Fresno, CA

    After some intense inspiration at the Eagle Field drags and a few encounters with Leeberz/Toymaker, Kustomdlux and I are setting out to build an inline 6 HA/GR.

    So far neither one of us have a dang clue about this other than being able to paint, weld and be effective enough with an engine to make it a reliable daily driver...now we're trying to figure out how we can get away with doing horrible things to the engine without it betraying us.

    Step one was to make a stand for the engine to sit in while we take covers off to replace leaking gaskets, remove a 'couple' years of oily dirt smudge that I refer to as a protective coating and make sure it's somewhat mechanically sound before we build a 'car' around it.

    Here's where we're at now:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. CenValyCali
    Joined: Nov 30, 2008
    Posts: 149

    CenValyCali
    Member
    from Hanford

    How far are you boys going to dig into it? Just by looking at the pics i'd say your on the right track. Def. going to need exhaust and carb combo. Any plans?
     
  3. ThingyM
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 812

    ThingyM
    Member

    We are all here to help you any way we can. Just holler for help.. You'll have more than you can imagine.......
     
  4. greasel
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 325

    greasel
    Member
    from Fresno, CA

    What the heck is up with the crankshaft damper on this 235?! It's not bolted on or fastened in any way, just a typical keyed, press fit shaft.

    And the timing cover has two screws/bolts coming through that require the oil pan to be dropped to access them. I'm so confused.
     

  5. kustomdlux
    Joined: Dec 27, 2004
    Posts: 146

    kustomdlux
    Member

    Not planing on tearing into it too far unless we find something that would make us question it. We were able to drive the truck before we pulled the motor out and it ran strong without knocks, ticks, or smoking. Gonna check compression and if it checks out, seal it up and on to the next.
     
  6. kustomdlux
    Joined: Dec 27, 2004
    Posts: 146

    kustomdlux
    Member

    Oh yea, and we are thinking that if 1 carb is good, 3 would be better, right? That may have to come a little later, but it is in the "plans". Oh and I hear short straight pipes sound pretty good, so we will stick with something along those lines.
     
  7. bob hindman
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 323

    bob hindman
    Member

    what size motttter....



    HINEY...
     
  8. kustomdlux
    Joined: Dec 27, 2004
    Posts: 146

    kustomdlux
    Member


    chevy 235... at least according to the casting numbers.
     
  9. CenValyCali
    Joined: Nov 30, 2008
    Posts: 149

    CenValyCali
    Member
    from Hanford

  10. greasel
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 325

    greasel
    Member
    from Fresno, CA

    It was a '52 or '53 GMC commercial truck, not sure if it was a 1.5 or 2 ton. That thing was a handful to drive, my legs didn't really fit between the steering wheel and seat. 1st gear felt like I'd revved the engine and sidestepped the clutch...in neutral. That was likely due to the 6.xx:1 rear end gears and the granny trans gear.
     
  11. ThingyM
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 812

    ThingyM
    Member

    I'm with you on the press on damper.. I kept looking for the threads in the crank that weren't there.. If you pull it off, Use a standard damper puller, They don't just pop off.. Me thinks 2 carbs would be better than 3. Unless you add Cam, Compression, and other things.. Start out simple. Then add as you go.....Dick M BTW. Don't make your pipes too short. You'll loose alot of needed HP..Straight 6s like longer pipes. In the 25" to 30" range, 1 5/8" od
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2009
  12. greasel
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 325

    greasel
    Member
    from Fresno, CA

    Thanks for that. We are on the keep it simple plan for now, just making sure it's in good enough shape to run as is and we want to get the rail built first. Then we'll start tweaking the engine and doing the cool extras as we run across them. If we have to rebuild, then we'll look into higher compression pistons.

    On the subject of 235's, my dad was telling me about an old work truck they had at the first shop he worked at just after he got out of the navy; he was saying they had to rebuild that thing quite a bit from the guys over-revving it on the highway...granted, it was a loader truck for a 'traditional' crop dusting operation, so I know they did unspeakable things to that truck but...are there any notable weak points on these 235's for what we're doing?
     
  13. ThingyM
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 812

    ThingyM
    Member

    The main thing with any straight 6 is, Don't Over-rev them..They just can't be run like a V8..Unless Highly modified...And most won't stand 7 grand even when built...
     
  14. 348chevy
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 431

    348chevy
    Member

    Get Patrick's Catalog even if you don't buy anything from him. It has a wealth of info that will help you. I think you have a late model, that is 1954 or later 235, I looked at your pictures and I didn't see the triangle on the block. If it does it is a babbit bearing and you need to be very careful if it is. The problem with those is you can't find anyone to repour the babbit for the rods. Also get a book titled Chevrolet Inline six-cylinder. There is another book that is a wealth of info but I don't remember the full title I think it is California Bill's hop up for Chevrolet six, GMC and Buick straight eight. Both can be gotten at Barnes and Noble. Patrick's Phone is 520-836-1117 and hope you get the son because if you get the old man sit down cause your going to be on the phone for a while, he loves to talk. You have just crossed over to never never land and you will soon be running down the track in an open car and you will never want another door slammer. :D Roy
     
  15. greasel
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 325

    greasel
    Member
    from Fresno, CA

    Thanks Roy. We've got a casting #3835911, which everything I'm finding says it's a 53-55 235, some sources reference that casting number had a powerglide behind it. What triangle are you talking about, where would that be? I thought the 'babbitt pounders' were pre-53, am I wrong?
     
  16. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,350

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    AMEN to that comment Roy. I got to make a pass in Old6rodder's Barn Job at the Eagle Field meet and I'm hooked for life!!:D
     
  17. esfoder
    Joined: Jan 1, 2009
    Posts: 119

    esfoder
    Member
    from Oregon

    Could it be a 261? they look alike

    Dusty

    1.5 or 2 ton truck might have the bigger engine in it.
     
  18. nexxussian
    Joined: Mar 14, 2007
    Posts: 3,240

    nexxussian
    Member

    What number is stamped on the flat pad by the distributor? specifically interested in the first 3 digits.
     
  19. Joe Hamby
    Joined: Jun 6, 2005
    Posts: 405

    Joe Hamby
    Member

    The easiest way to tell a 235 from a 261 is to look at the oil line holes on the left side of the block, on a 235 those holes are about 3/8, and on a 261 they are 1/2 inch. You can see that even if it is covered in dirt, and can't see those captian's bars, that are on the right side to the rear of the dist. and on the left side of the block toward the front. Joe
     
  20. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,372

    bobw
    Member

    The casting number greasel listed does indeed indicate a 235, according to Inliners.org.
     
  21. kustomdlux
    Joined: Dec 27, 2004
    Posts: 146

    kustomdlux
    Member



    So what I'm hearing is that gearing is going to be pretty important to get the most we can out of this motor. Roy, thanks for that number for Patricks. I had found a lot in info that referenced them, but never any contact info. And I can't wait for that first run in an open car!
     
  22. leeberz
    Joined: Jun 18, 2007
    Posts: 82

    leeberz
    Member
    from fresno ca

    GIT R DONE .........let the fun begin
     
  23. greasel
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 325

    greasel
    Member
    from Fresno, CA

    Man, I got Patrick's son on the phone and he was willing to talk to me for a while, good grief they know a lot about these inlines! It was nice to have an engine enthusiast on the phone and not a typical mail order parts salesman, that phone call was by far the most informative 15 minutes of this project, so far; and he didn't push a single product other than getting a catalog to me.
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2010
  24. greasel
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 325

    greasel
    Member
    from Fresno, CA

    Well this evening didn't go completely as planned. The cranking compression was decent, 100-110 psi with the engine cold but the main bearings were sub-optimal. The rod bearings looked fine, usual even wear but the 4 main bearings were not good with a few little grooves in the crank journals.

    Now I've got to talk to a local engine rebuilding machine shop and see what he thinks, maybe it won't be too bad.

    And to answer some previous questions, no, it's not a babbitt pounder; it's a full pressure 235 with drop in bearings.
     
  25. kustomdlux
    Joined: Dec 27, 2004
    Posts: 146

    kustomdlux
    Member

    A quick update on our build. We had a machine shop guy take a look at the crank and we just need new main bearings so those will be on order. Also we started work on the rails last night and started to put together the front suspension setup. It's starting to almost look like we might be building something rather than just collecting parts.
     
  26. butch nassau
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 205

    butch nassau
    Member

    I bought a brand new set of 235 main bearings by Speed Pro for $58.00 through Advance Auto Parts.

    You can do it online.

    Butch
     
  27. Royalshifter
    Joined: May 29, 2005
    Posts: 15,518

    Royalshifter
    Moderator
    from California

    Awesome.....I was the the pilot for ThingyM at Eagle Field and what a rush.....can't wait to do it again.
     
  28. ThingyM
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 812

    ThingyM
    Member

    You will be Mark...Making a few changes for the better...
     
  29. bob hindman
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 323

    bob hindman
    Member

    I make intake & ex header flanges for 235-261....

    HINEY....
     
  30. greasel
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 325

    greasel
    Member
    from Fresno, CA

    We don't have any money, is that a problem? ;)

    Butch, thanks for that tip! We were looking at about $100 through Patrick's or Summit just for the mains and we need the rod bearings, too.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.