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Guide fence for HF beadroller

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Finnrodder, Sep 1, 2012.

  1. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,962

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    Harbor freight beadrollers are fine tools after reinforcementing it.Here is a lot of threads about HF beadrollers,dies etc.I havent found any thread for the guide fence yet for these beadrollers.Guide fence is good to have,when rolling straight beads.I've found them for sale around 80 bucks,but cheap bastard like me wont never spend a 80 bucks for a tool that you can fabricate 100% from the scrap.
    So here we go:

    I found some angle iron left overs and made the fence frame of that:

    [​IMG]

    I made few notches,so the guide will move freely in the throat.
    The most important part is to weld the angle irons in 90 degree angle,otherwise your beads may look like a bit weird because the fence is not mounted straight to the beadroller.

    [​IMG]

    I did some test fitting and it seems to be ok,there is enought room for the axles too.

    [​IMG]

    It needs something to get it clamped to the beadroller,so i butchered one crappy G-clamp and used the axle and some of the G-clamp frame on this project.

    [​IMG]

    So here is the finished guide fence...

    [​IMG]

    And it looks like it works too.I think this will make some of the beadroller work a bit faster than it used to be.
     
  2. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 13,866

    chaddilac
    Member

  3. I need one of these.
    Have you got a shot back a bit so I can
    see the overall of the roller and fence?
     
  4. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,962

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    Thanks guys!

    I guess you ment something like this:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Hope that helps..
     

  5. motoandy
    Joined: Sep 19, 2007
    Posts: 3,319

    motoandy
    Member
    from MB, SC

    dig the steering wheel.nice tech piece
     
  6. Thanks.
    That helps a lot.
     
  7. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,962

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    Good to hear that those pics were useful.That steering wheel is from 40-50's bus or a truck.I bought it yrs ago and its been mounted to the beadroller since i got it.
     
  8. Do you find the wheel to be much better than a handle?
    I should convert mine as well.
     
  9. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,962

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    Yeah,you definetely should convert yours.It turns beadrolling to the different level.Its a lot easier to roll it back,if it looks like its going to the wrong tracks and needs less power than crank.The foot operated,electric motor powered beadroller is the best choice,you dont have to hire a roller slave.Its just real bitch to use muscle powered beadroller by yourself.
     
  10. GregF
    Joined: Sep 23, 2009
    Posts: 27

    GregF
    Member

    Did you take the shafts and rest of the mechanism and dies from the Harbor Freight/Central Machinery machine? It's obvious that frame isn't going to flex! :D

    Awesome job on the machine and the fence!
     
  11. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,962

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    It doesnt look like it,but it is the Harbor Freight beadroller.I just welded more stuff around it.Without any reinforcement,its really flexible and its almost impossible to form decent beads with that.
    I've used the HF dies,but i found most of them useless,so i have modified them or made my own like this:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=566973
     
  12. Nice job. I had planned to make one for mine when I re-worked it but never got around to it.
     
  13. That looks great. I like what you did with your HF roller. That's what i am doing to mine. Thanks for the pictures.
     
  14. GregF
    Joined: Sep 23, 2009
    Posts: 27

    GregF
    Member

    I saw how you modified the original tool in the die thread. The dies you made in the die thread made the new floor panels look like they were there from the factory. Great work!
     
  15. lawman
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 2,665

    lawman
    Member

    Very nice"Fab"job !!!!!
     
  16. awsome tech!
     
  17. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,962

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

  18. TexA
    Joined: Sep 7, 2010
    Posts: 13

    TexA
    Member

    I MUST add a guide like that to my HF-type roller too.

    I did make a wheel that replaced the origional crank on mine.
    I made a form, 3/4" plywood, 18" in diamter. Anchored it to my workbench and got a piece (10') steel conduit and formed the conduit around the plywood form until I had a complete circle. It took a little doing but I got it done OK. (It even came out pretty straight and didn't collapse the tubing either.)
    I then welded the two ends together to complete the "O".
    With some of the left-over conduit, I made two cross pieces, welded them onto the O for a 4" square piece of 3/16" flat steel was welded where the center cross pieces cross one another. I put the center support in a press, smashed the cross memeber just enough so the square was touching each of the cross bars and welded the center square to the cross pieces.
    I then took a short piece of 1" diameter (inside) pipe, THICK WALLED, drilled a 1/4" + hole in the center of the pipe and welded a 1/4" nut over the hole. This will serve to be able to "lock" the wheel onto the driveshaft of the roller.
    Tighten the lock-nut down onto the flat-spot on driveshaft of the roller and roll-away.
    It's a lot easier than the crank ever was!
    I built the completed wheel for less than $5.00........ :)
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2012
  19. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,962

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    Looks like you put some time and hard work in that wheel.I just put an add to the finnish website.Lazy bastard rides again:D
     
  20. msalamanca
    Joined: May 25, 2011
    Posts: 526

    msalamanca
    Member

    I was wondering how you did the bottom of the doors. Didnt even see this.
     
  21. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    We've been talking about making a guide like this for ours too, Ours is a Protools brand but what you did would adapt to that one too. Great idea, and I like the clamp for being able to move it exactly where you need it to be.

    Thanks for posting this thread.

    Don
     
  22. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,962

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    Thank you!
    I am glad if someone got ideas from this thread.
    I should have done this really long time ago.The floorpan job was a kind of hell without any guide.
     
  23. Shopking
    Joined: Jan 10, 2009
    Posts: 106

    Shopking
    Member
    from central Pa

    Thanks -will be starting the floorpans on my 50 next month.Great timing!
     
  24. TJratz
    Joined: Oct 28, 2008
    Posts: 373

    TJratz
    Member

    Definitely going to make one for mine
     
  25. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,962

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    Thanks fellows!
    Here is a door bottom replacement piece i made for my shoebox.
    Copying the profile of original one was done by beadroller.It saved some time and cigarets because of the fence.

    [​IMG]
     
  26. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    Finnrodder, we were talking last night about stealing your ideas and making our own fence. One question, does the sheetmetal slide smoothly along the fence or does it ever have a tendancy to catch ? We wondered if you did anything to smooth out the fence or if it just worked well as is.

    Don
     
  27. boutlaw
    Joined: Apr 30, 2010
    Posts: 1,228

    boutlaw
    Member

    Great tech, I especially like the C-clamp type screw locking device which allows the fence to be moved easily back and forth on the throat. Looks like I got a project for tomorrow. Thanks
     
  28. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,962

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    Nope,i didnt do anything to get the fence smoothed.Only thing i smoothed was the notches on the frame,so it moves nicely in the throat.
    The sheetmetal moves nicely,but it must be cut straight from the side that is against the fence.I guess thats the key with beadrolling with fence.
     
  29. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    Very good, thank you. I have a couple of bent up C clamps and will sacrifice one to do what you did. :)

    Don
     
  30. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,962

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    No problem,good luck with the fence build.
     

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