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Technical Grinding noise when I pull the car out of the garage.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Al, May 9, 2021.

  1. I am having a problem with that too, that bearing would have to be very messed up/rotted/completely dry/falling apart to make the described noises (if it is even possible) so I think the next step should be to pop the axle and get eyes, hands, ears on that bearing. Either rule it out or replace it.

    As far as an alignment goes, I use two tape measures, a section of hockey stick, some string and a plumb bob to set toe so I think we can walk him through that step when we get the other stuff sorted.
     
  2. partssaloon
    Joined: Jan 28, 2009
    Posts: 500

    partssaloon
    Member

    Check the length of the driveshaft. If the yoke is bottomed out in the trans you will hear that terrible grinding noise. Ask me how I know!
     
    1934coupe and belair like this.
  3. reagen
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 200

    reagen
    Member

    Take it easy buddy it was a joke, keep your car !
     
  4. I have to say one more thing
    My Dally driver is not used every day so from siting it gets
    Rust on the Rotors & I have to ride the Brakes for awhile till
    the Rust on the Rotors Clean up or use the Brakes a lot.!
    Could this be your Problem..??

    Just my 3.5 cents

    Live Learn & Die a Fool
     
    flynbrian48 likes this.
  5. I forgot one other Thing my Merc. weight is 3500 lbs and I don't have
    Power Steering & what does your Car way..??
    My Merc. has the original Steering & works Great No Noise from
    it when I take it out of the Garage.

    Just my 3.5 cents

    Live Learn & Die a Fool
     
  6. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,054

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Like someone once said “Patiently waiting “

    To see what the solution is to this.
     
    Fortunateson likes this.
  7. MCjim
    Joined: Jun 4, 2006
    Posts: 216

    MCjim
    Member
    from soCal

    It is a hillbilly thing...
     
    Elcohaulic and Blue One like this.
  8. Tman
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 34,117

    Tman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Since you aren't going to be doing anything til September why even worry? Answer me this. Has this car EVER been on the road? It sounds like it has been a 25 year plus project with changes made along the way? Just asking for some clarity. If the car has never been shook down it is a whole different ballgame.
     
  9. Like Tman ask, has this car been a forever project and never been driven? HRP
     
  10. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 8,210

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    Ok, I didn't read it all. Did anyone suggest engine off, put it in neutral and push it to help isolate the noise? Got any pitch to the driveway? Let it coast back some, again, engine off, and again I didn't read every reply. The suspense was too much...:p
     
  11. hotrodjack33
    Joined: Aug 19, 2019
    Posts: 2,363

    hotrodjack33
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My advice...get a rollback and take it to a shop that can look at it.

    For years, I've built all my hot rods myself too, but at this age, I have no problem having a shop do some of the work for me. Just because I CAN do something...doesn't always mean I'm ABLE to do it anymore. Don't (physically) kill yourself trying to figure this out...let someone else (younger?) help...no shame in that
     
    olscrounger, wraymen and ffr1222k like this.
  12. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 3,313

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    If the OP is like me , affording the rollback would be a stretch , paying someone to work on it would be impossible , Some of us on SS just barely get by financially , fixing our junk ourselves is mandatory !
     
    '28phonebooth likes this.
  13. Tman
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 34,117

    Tman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Many insurance companies cover short tows. Mine will cover 50 miles. And yes, my cars are titled, plated and insured before they hit the road.
     
  14. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 3,313

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Id be more concerned using metal jack stands on a wood floor ....
     
    dirty old man likes this.
  15. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 4,869

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    If those blocks are solid concrete at least 6" thick, they would probably be ok. I have some I use occasionally as a backup to my jackstands. But if they are the kind with holes in them and made out of fly ash I think it is, they are not smooth, they are kinda pebbly for lack of a better term, I wouldn't trust them. Even the 6" solid fly ash blocks will crumble if hit hard or dropped. I have dropped my 6" concrete blocks off the tailgate of the 4x4 pickup onto my 4" thick concrete driveway, the driveway chipped but the blocks didn't!
     
    reagen likes this.
  16. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

    I could have 1300 Watts in there, be half deaf like I am now, and it is real loud..
     
  17. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

    Never had a problem with them. I put a piece of 4x4, or stack up 2 2x6's on top of the blocks before lowering it. I never come down fast. I have a HF floor jack as well.
    It is our 30th Aniversery today, so I wasn't in the garage. Going back out tomorrow morning.
     
  18. nobrakesneeded
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 114

    nobrakesneeded
    Member
    from Hempstead

    About 3 years ago I had a similar situation. As the truck moved, a horrible noise cam from somewhere underneath. Crawled all over the truck trying to figure it out. Nothing made itself known. After wasting a lot of time and frustration, it was found to be the belts in the from tires breaking apart and the tread separating. Only after moving it so many times did the tires begin showing the cause. Just saying....oddest thing I had seen in awhile.
     
    David Gersic likes this.
  19. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 4,028

    Fortunateson
    Member

    An apparently "soon to be extinct" hillbilly thing...

    Long life second; safety first!
     
    Blue One and Doublepumper like this.
  20. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 1,007

    Doublepumper
    Member

    Cinder blocks will crumble if something hits the side and cracks it.
    A friend of mine lost his dad under a car.
    Don't use cinder blocks for supporting your heap.....please!
     
  21. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

    I have 4 jack stands. Still kind of scary. I have a wooden plank garage floor. Not flat smooth concrete. I will have to put down some plywood to have a smooth surface for the jack stand to sit on. Should I put the stands under the rear axle?? and maybe use the blocks as a second block??
     
  22. Stick your wheels/tires underneath- that way, if things slide/go bad, the car will fall on the tires... not you.
     
    Tman and reagen like this.
  23. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

    I will see if I can find a couple of tree stumps. Just have to cut them the height of the concrete blocks.
     
  24. Is there ANYONE in the Duluth area that can help Al????
     
  25. Get rid of concrete blocks
     
    Fortunateson likes this.
  26. MCjim
    Joined: Jun 4, 2006
    Posts: 216

    MCjim
    Member
    from soCal

    This is becoming absurd; I'm out...good luck
     
    BigDogSS, Fitty Toomuch and Tman like this.
  27. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

    Okay. Would 6x6x12" work. I can get a 6x6 8' long. I could cut them every 12". lay down2 side by side, and put one on top, and screw it to the other 2. Then if I need to go higher use pieces of 2x6..
     
  28. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

    Thanks for your help. All anyone says is get rid of the concrete blocks. I don't know if I can trust a 2" piece of cast steel on the frame.. My floors are uneven as it is.. Thanks for your help though..
     
  29. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

    Car weights about 2400 Lbs. Noise seems more back. If I have the car in the air in the back, with the brake drums off, and I put it in Neutral, and move it into Drive not touching the steering wheel at all, and it screams.. It is not the power steering. The pump hits nothing. Only other thing I could try in the front would be to take the belt off the power steering pump to see if it stops.
     
  30. OK, now we're getting somewhere... Does the sound still seem to be coming from driver's side, rear?
    So... is the rear of the car supported UNDER the axle, so the suspension is loaded? If so, you've narrowed it down considerably.
    Without brake drums, you've eliminated brake-to-drum interference, so what's left is: transmission, driveline and rearend.
    MAKE SURE the car is totally supported and rock solid! Check the driveline and U joints by trying to turn the shaft while observing any play. Try to lift/wiggle the shaft side-to-side. Also look above the shaft to spot any shaft/body interference.
    Use a lever/fulcrum to check for axle bearing play.
    Do these these steps CAREFULLY and report back,
    Good luck!
     

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