The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Al, May 9, 2021.
READ THIS CAREFULLLY< DO NOT USE CINDER BLOCKS>>>>!!!!!!
I think he told you backwards, or you maybe misunderstood. It’s a lower nut on a 9in you need a wrench for as a socket normally won’t work.
You mentioned the tie rod being too long. If behind the axle, that would cause toe in. You also mentioned the ruts made. So question is, do you have a dirt/ gravel floor in your garage? If dirt/ gravel could the noise you are hearing be the front tires making a rut while moving forward.
I also wonder about what you meant by moving the rotor over?
I know everyone is jumping from the front of the car to the rear, so guess I’ll do the same
You mentioned this started after installing a power steering set up, can you let us know what kit/ parts you used?
Back to the rear end, have you verified there is oil in the housing?
Please don't use cinder blocks to hold up your car. Many people have been seriously injured or worse using those blocks to hold up a car. If you've used them before and had no incident you are now on borrowed time and pushing your luck.
I guess I could have said by moving the rotor over I could have had the wheel on same thing. The passengers side was set right where when turned to the left. the rotor, or wheel would turn Left. The Drivers side Didn't go far enough to the Left. Now it does. I lowered the tie rod end and did a few more turns. Now it looks right in both directions.
Also was mentioned was not to use cement blocks. I also read on one site not to use Harbor Freight jack stands.. So what do I use??
I bought a kit from Gearhead off ebay. Came with front power rack,bolts,pump, hoses, tie rod ends. I had to buy the offset bushings for it, and a belt and fluid..
No.I don't have a a dirt floor. I have a wooden plank floor. I also have 3/8 ply wood on top of that.. I lost way too many nuts and bolts, and tools threw the floor before.
If the bearing is that bad then there is a lot of metal inside the axle housing, the oil probably looks like metal flake paint. The oil at least needs to be drained and replaced. I would probably flush it with diesel fuel before refilling. Good luck, I've opened up axle housings out of wheel loaders that have failed bearings, removed the both axles and the 3rd member and flushed the housings out as best as I could with solvent and compressed air, and still had metal shavings in the housing. It's very difficult to remove it all.
Quality Jack stands are not that expensive, but to add to that, HF did have a recall on ones that would/could fail. I might be going out on a shaky limb, but would assume HF has pulled all the suspect stands from inventory by now.
I have my kids OT car on a set of HF stands, but ones I bought 20 or so years ago.
I had to do some work on an OT car a few months ago, and with all my crap sitting in the air, I needed two more stands. I picked them up at autoZone, only difference I see from an HF set these are painted blue instead of orange.
Now all my babble aside, just remember to never trust your life to a Jack stand. I don’t think your problem would require you to lay under the car and be in potentially harms way.
So just get a pair, if they fail, your car will be damaged not you.
Also, keep a bit of light pressure with your Jack where the stand is placed. I’m such a sissy when I have a car up in the air, even with my pipe stands I trust 100%, I place blocks under the frame “just in case” if I’m crawling under it.
I only use wood. You have to know that cinder blocks are made for holding weight in just a downward pressure, they are not made , nor do they withstand, and side to side motion with weight placed on top of them.
Did this bolt back out?
I got low blood sugar, and had to quit for the day I am gone tomorrow, but be back on it on Wed.
Buy your Jack Stands from NAPA.......................................!
Just my 3.5 Cents
Live Learn Die a Fool
https://www.ebay.com/itm/381093380334?hash=item58baef80ee:g:rswAAOSwAL9UkgNa Like this..
Ok, you have verified nothing is contacting the front wheels so I would return my focus to the left rear.
As far as we can tell (based solely on what we have learned from you), you have determined that there is a grinding sound coming from the left rear axle. We have also verified it is not the brake hardware or brake drum that is causing the noise. At this point (still not understanding how a worn axle bearing could make the noises you describe), I would pull the drive side axle far enough out that you can actually see, touch and hear the axle bearing. If it is clearly the cause of the grinding noise, pull the axle completely out and get a new bearing and retainer pressed on. If the bearing looks and feels fine, push the axle back in and keep looking.
This is a great thread, Im on the edge of my seat wondering whats next.
Al, can I buy ya a coffee and a banana, power thru, man.
I guess Wednesday is OK too.
Also make sure there is nothing rubbing the driveshaft, when you spin the rear wheels in neutral the driveshaft also turns. I just find it hard to believe the wheel bearing went bad while sitting unless it is very rusty.
I'm open to a complete and 'first time ever!' type of surprise. I've had 'em before...
There is some surface rust on some of it, but not bad. I just got a little bit off the inside of the drums.
Did you rule out the U-Joints? Engine off, transmission in neutral,
Move driveshaft up and down and side to side. If any loosness,
bad U-Joint. Check both ends.
Okay. After I go to Menard's and buy 4 jack stands, and get the back up on the drivers side. I will check the drive shaft. Put a lever on some wood, and check for travel in the axle. After that I will check back in..
It honestly sounds like you put the front pads in backwards. And you can’t just turn the tie rods in until they’re ‘straight’, this is a critical thing to get right. My advice is if you can’t problem solve this simple issue, and can’t get past ‘don’t use concrete blocks’, take it to a shop that knows what they’re doing.
You mentioned that the local college body shop program is going to paint it for you... Do they have an Automotive Technician program that you can contact? Possibly one of the instructors could help you trouble shoot (our maybe one of their wizz-bang students).
I certainly would be there if I was not in Illinois!!!
Step away from the car. Find help.
I have those same pads in that car for 25 years. They were done right. When I had manual steering they worked just fine. I even put marks on the tie rod so I would know where to put the new tie rod ends to, but after changing it over. I never counted turns of the tie rod ends. When I bring the car in in September. They will give it a alinement.
That is going to happen, but not til Sept.
I never heard of using cinder blocks to hold anything up let alone a couple thousand pounds of car..
6 pages and nobody has said, "Turn the radio up." Jeeze you guys...
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