Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical green brake line

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Alaska Jim, Dec 15, 2017.

  1. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 16,497

    gimpyshotrods
    Member

    Unless you have something different up there, it is not copper coated.

    Copper is part of the alloy.
     
  2. AKCJ
    Joined: Jan 9, 2014
    Posts: 16

    AKCJ
    Member

    Jim - our NAPA here sent it up from your NAPA there awhile back for our trailer project.
     
  3. Alaska Jim
    Joined: Dec 1, 2012
    Posts: 282

    Alaska Jim
    Member

    AKCJ, I will check with Napa. does the cj in your handle indicate Cobra Jet? are you a Mustang /Ford guy? if so you may have heard of, or know my brother Dennis Hackenberger. He is well known for his knowledge of ford stuff in Anchorage.
     
  4. Good stuff. If I need to make up a couple of separate lines, I but a longer piece and cut it accordingly. Cuts the flaring in half. If I don't like the long fitting it comes with, I swap it out for a shorter one.
     
  5. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 12,845

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon


    I actually was able to do both cars without any flaring, but two important things I found with working with the pre flared/fitted lines is planning the layout and knowing all components that need to be included ahead of time.
    Another thing I found was the fitted lines don't come in lengths we would commonly expect, don't recall the numbers but not full foot increments.
    It did take more than one trip to the parts store and I did have to order a couple sections.
    I don't like a lot of adapters in line systems but strategically placed junction blocks at 90 degree turns and using residual and proportioning valves as connectors helps greatly.
     
    bobss396 likes this.
  6. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 2,679

    The 39 guy
    Member

    We have used the green line. Bends easily. We cleaned the ends to bare metal before flaring. The tubing was scuffed and then painted semi gloss black for a preferred look. We don't use our cars in the winter so we are not concerned with corrosion. That is just what was available at the local stores. I will have to try that copper stuff next time.
     
  7. AKCJ
    Joined: Jan 9, 2014
    Posts: 16

    AKCJ
    Member

    No on the Cobra Jet. I've got an Early CJ5 for roaming the hills.
    Not sure I've ever seen a real Cobra Jet. Yet.
     
  8. Alaska Jim
    Joined: Dec 1, 2012
    Posts: 282

    Alaska Jim
    Member

    I am an old fan of the CJ series jeeps . I had a 66 CJ 5 with V6 4bbl , headers and mild cam back in '75 in Calif. before I moved to Alaska. Had a lot of fun at the hill climbs back then
     
  9. Todd McClure
    Joined: Dec 21, 2017
    Posts: 24

    Todd McClure

    Hi Jim, Here is a breakdown of what types of brake lines and coatings are in the market right now.

    Zinc plated steel- This would be the brake line that would be considered closest to "factory appearance" with a dull silver coating. Not good for long term corrosion resistence but is popular due to its low cost.
    PVF coated - (PolyVinyl Flouride) This is the green tubing you are talking about. This tubing would be made from the same type of steel as the Zinc plated above, but the PVF (green) coating greatly increases the corrosion resistence. It is still a mild steel tube, so the tube is still not overly easy to bend and flare, but much easier than stainless for example.
    Nylon coated - This is what a few people on this thread have referred to as "plastic coated". It has great corrosion resistence, but is a pain because you have to be sure to peel away the coating from the ends to make a flare. We don't see this type of tube being used much by DIY guys.
    Cupronickel - (AKA Copper Nickel, Cunifer or Nicopp)- This is the best stuff on the market right now. Bends and flares with ease and will never rust. Also called 90-10 due to it being about 90 percent copper and 10 percent Nickel.
    Stainless- Everyone loves how stainless looks and we know it won't rust, but it can be extremely hard to bend and flare. We usually tell our customers that if their flaring tool cost less than $100, it probably won't work well with stainless.

    Hope that helps!
    Todd
    TheStopShop
    www.thestopshop.com
    614-557-3442
     
  10. Alaska Jim
    Joined: Dec 1, 2012
    Posts: 282

    Alaska Jim
    Member

    Thanks Todd. It does explain it all. Thank You.----Jim Hackenberger, Palmer Ak.
     
  11. doug warren
    Joined: Apr 3, 2017
    Posts: 37

    doug warren

    But autozone dont drop it out of a drone.lol
     
  12. A lot of pre-made lines come in 10" increments, up to 60" is the longest I've seen. Junction blocks are the best leak-proof way to join 2 lines. I do that too.
     
  13. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 1,203

    Beanscoot
    Member

    Do the pre-made Cunifer type lines have similar material tube nuts installed, or are they the usual zinc plated steel?
     
  14. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 4,987

    anthony myrick
    Member

    All the chain stores have the green
    We have a local store with the silver
    The silver seems to bend and flare easier
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.