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Projects Green Acres, a farm truck to daily driver saga

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by A_Burly_Wind, Jul 15, 2019.

  1. Picked up this 61 3/4 ton yesterday from a fella down the road. Been eyeing it and he finally put a sale sign up so i jumped on it. The 262 in it runs like a song, trans is smooth, and rust isnt too bad. Needs some brake work and its got a bit of death wobble at around 45mph (any info on a fix would be appreciated) but overall a solid truck. Plans are to get a bumper on it, new wood, cab corners and then throw some fresh paint on it. I want to keep the inline as it runs so strong, but the 4spd with the granny gear has got to go, thinking about a t5 swap but may do an AOD. If ny of yall have a front bumper or hood emblem PM me with a price.
     
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  2. The big green
     

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  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 43,202

    squirrel
    Member

    Swap in some 3.54 rear gears, it'll be fine.
     
  4. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 23,102

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    time for some big fun
     
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  5. I thought about doing that too jim, Ive got a car ratio 3speed laying around too. I dont intend on much highway driving if any at all. Biggest issue is that front end shake for now
     
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  6. Also any inline gurus able to help on some engine stuff. Does anyone besides clifford make intakes and headers?
     
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  7. swap the gears in the rear, Swapping a car trans or a T5 will add up fast between a new clutch, building or sourcing another trans crossmember, a new or reworked drive shaft and conversion joints for the shaft, you will have $500 bucks into a trans swap in a heart beat. Gears and bearings, 250 to 300 bucks max. Plus, when you decide to use it like a truck, your gonna need that granny behind the six to get it moving.
     
  8. You got a great point Jason. Luckily I work for a driveline company and we carry most major gear brands so I'll see what I can get for a gear set. Id like to change the truck as little as I can, got too much character to it with the homemade bed and all
     
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  9. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 5,660

    Rickybop
    Member
    from Michigan

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  10. A truck like that needs a granny gear, its part of the character!

    As for the front end wobble. I can just about promise you the front end needs rebuilt. Check your kinpins and wheel bearings, along with the spring and shackle bushings. It probably just needs the king pins and bushings replaced. Check the adjustment on the steering box, almost certain it needs adjusted and oil put in it. If you put oil in it and it all leaks out, then fill the box with John Deer Corn Head Grease. I would go through the whole front end, its cheap overall, and throw a new set of shocks on it while your at it.
     
  11. My exact plan. Replace all of it so I know theres not a bad link somewhere. Im also going to redo all the brakes while Im at it.
     
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  12. Frankie47
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 1,699

    Frankie47
    Member
    from omaha ne.

    Wow.....the first owner didn't want to spend money any pesky extra gages like fuel, oil pressure, water temp, ammeter....lol. Just a Speedo.
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Got a nice three gauge cluster to put on the dash to keep an eye on that stuff
     
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  14. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 5,689

    56sedandelivery
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My wife and I had to go down to the southern part of Washington State, to pick up her new Chihuahua. Along the way on I-5 we saw a home right on the freeway, with probably close to a hundred Ford pickup trucks of different years. Also another place with lots of old farm equipment, including tons of 30's up cars and trucks. If we were't on a specific mission, I would have backtracked to have a look. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
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  15. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 17,629

    Deuces
    Member
    from Michigan

    Wow! Not even a fuel gauge...:confused::rolleyes:
     
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  16. besides the speedo thats the only gauge that works hahaha
     
  17. low budget
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 5,314

    low budget
    Member
    from Central Ky

    Had a buddy when we were kids that would borrow his Moms red 73ish fast back Gran Torino....
    The gas hand didnt work so he would check the gas with a broom stick handle before going for a ride...;)...:D
     
  18. Heard back from my gear vendors so got that on order, getting the brake parts and front end stuff sorted as well. Any one on here swapped one of this to power brakes before? Should be fairly simple id think
     
  19. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 43,202

    squirrel
    Member

    shouldn't need power brakes, the stock drums are "self energizing", you know... at least I haven't had any trouble driving old trucks with drum brakes for the past several decades. But maybe I'm special.
     
  20. low budget
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 5,314

    low budget
    Member
    from Central Ky

    Best I remember from an old ford I had, I think the fuel gauge and a few other warning lights may be around the parameter of the speedo.
    upload_2019-7-15_16-46-42.png
    Its an old truck...if all your shoes etc. are in good working order, You shouldnt need power brakes should ya?
    Unless maybe you are gonna be doing some heavy towing or something...maybe?
    Anyway another story (Im on a kick this evening :D) Maybe I have already told this on here, I dont know...
    Ive got a uncle that had a old pick up like this several years ago that he drove to work every day...just an old used beater he traded for but not too bad a lookin old truck either... He had drove it all summer and winter started coming on and getting colder, He turned the heater knob on the dash but it didnt work so he just lived with it for then but it was starting to get pretty cold riding back and forth to work but he withstood it...
    One snowy morning he was heading in on his cold venture to work and saw a guy he knew that walked everywhere walking on the side of the road, My uncle stopped and picked him up since it was too cold to be out fartin around walkingo_O The old guy jumped up in the truck and said "turn some heat on in this thing" and reached over, pulled the heater knob way out and turned it:eek:....Woosh, Heat started to blow, pretty as you please.....just needed to know how to opperate it:D:D:D
     
  21. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 9,705

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Jack the front wheels off the ground, and shake each one, (top/bottom in & out; front/rear both ways. wheels straight ahead)
    If there is NOT excessive 'play' (slop) then check the play at steering box.
    If loose there, adjust the sector shaft nut/set screw with wheels STRAIGHT AHEAD.
    Only 'flaw' in substituting grease for prescribed 90 wt. oil in steering box is that grease will pile up the sides of the box inside, being 'moved' off the important parts!
    THE MOVING PARTS.
    Gospel.
    The 'death wobble' MAY just be tire balance. Consider the weight of light truck tires.
    Have them professionally machine balanced. Cheap and great results, depending upon age/condition of tires...
    But DO 'shake it down' first. Steering linkage for that one will add up fast. May not need it.
     
  22. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 43,202

    squirrel
    Member

    that's a problem if you use normal thick grease. Instead, use corn head grease. 00 weight grease, CV joint grease, or something similar that will flow.
     
  23. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 1,717

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    My Buddy has had about 5 of that era truck . He currently has 66 , 390 auto . I’ll see if he has anything usable that you may need .
     
  24. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,859

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    Before this gets too far....It is what it is and what it is, is not bad.

    I have had these and been around them since I was 4. I still own 2 100s. My favorite was my 63 250 long step. I say this so you know I'm talking out my tailpipe.
    Sadly the 250 had a rotten cab....it was collasping. That's not too big of a deal now but it was then.

    That truck was a freakin man!
    292, T98 4 speed and a Dana 60 with 4.56 gears. It was a hoss and a blast to drive.

    Think long and and hard about this truck. Like it is, it's very useful. A big flatbed can be such a convenance. It can haul stuff, big bulky stuff. You need a load of lumber.....no sweat. Need to go to the scrapyard....no problem. You can even rig it up to retrieve engines from the junk yard.
    You don't want to overload it but you can load it to capacity. It has the transmission and gear for getting going and just as important slowing down.

    Basically what you want to do is make a F100 out of it. My advice, don't!
    In the end you'll be better off to find a F100.

    You can find a F100 cheaper than what it will cost to modify that flatbed. You want to take away the very thing that made a 250 special. It's kind of wasteful in a sense because you may actually need it and get plenty of use out of it like it is.

    Trust me....if you have a yard, a home, a family and a hobby that requires fetching bulky heavy stuff, you need a good heavy duty flatbed.
     
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  25. Only looked into power brakes for towing my race car or camper. Its going to get used as a truck, not trying to make it an f100, just want to be able to drive it ALOT. Flatbeds staying put as well as everything else so only thing that be different is a gear swap. I only gave a grand for it and got some extra stuff with it that makes up for what i paid. Once the front end makes me happy enough to really put it in the wind Ill see if i want to swap the gearing. If not send it back to my distributor.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2019
  26. A bumper and a hood emblem would make him my new best friend!
     
  27. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,859

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    That's fine. Here's some info for you.
    The data plate on the drivers door (sometimes these doors are changed), has the VIN info and tells what engine transmission, color, rear axle, date of manufacture, what plant, trim, series and if it was a DSO...domestic special order. This info can easily be decoded from multiple sights. A quick search will find these or you could go to fordification VIN.
    https://fordification.info/vindecoder.htm
    The real VIN is on the frame rail at several locations. Officially the door plate is known as the "warranty plate".

    262s are rather rare with the 223 being much more common. 223s become 262s on sale day like 352s become 390s in the '65-66s trucks. The door plate should tell the tell. There are some very minor differences in a 262 vs the 223 to help visually identify it.
    The 1961-1964 are the orphan years some parts that are only specific to these years like the steering box.
    1961-64 are the last of the "old" or 1949-64 Ford universal......These are really more like a '48 F-1 or F-2
    1965-66 are the first of the "new" trucks....These are really more like a 1996 F-150 or F250.

    Bolt on with no modification transmissions for the 223-262...
    49-63 light duty 3 speed...non syncro 1st this should fit the "eared" 262 bell (223 car and truck)
    63-64 3.03 toploader 3 speed...full syncro (offered in these trucks)
    early toploader 4 speeds of the same period. (car) these should bolt on where the 3.03 does.
    Very very rare.... the FX or MX 3 speed Cruise o Matics.. these were a rare option in trucks (Truck transmissions had the ear mounts..uber rare!)
    The 2 speed...Really its a 3 speed:rolleyes: '50s Car Fordomatic (car) no ear mounts
    The T98 HD 4 speed

    C-4s require a special aftermarket Bell. While I like a C-4 personally I think it's a little light duty for a 250. These bells and kits start at around 700 and up bucks not counting the transmission.....

    T5s and AODs would have to be custom fabrications requiring cutting off the bell or maybe input shaft modifications to the T5......

    Another problem arises here....
    the 262-223 uses a 3 point mount. A center bolt and biscuit at the front and two bolts and biscuits at the bellhousing. When you go to a later rear mount transmission without bell housing mounts, the assembly becomes unstable potentially damaging an aluminium cased transmission. That, and the engine flops from side to side.

    The bottom line....if running a 223 or 262 in a truck it's best to use what come on it. Anything else opens not only your wallet but that proverbial can of worms.

    Brakes...
    Factory power boosters are available for the fruit jar but they are uber rare and expensive. 1970s Power boosters and masters will bolt to the cab but...that's getting above my pay grade.
    When these trucks were made most towing was done by heavy sedans. These trucks were designed to haul not pull. If you tow heavy trailers....trailer brakes are a must have over any modification you make to the truck.

    The fronts may have single push "half" wheel cylinders. They have large drums and the factory brakes on a 250 were actually pretty good. As with any single master a functioning emergency brake is a must.
    Disks up front....all that I know available use 5 lug not 8 lug.

    Another factor with these.......
    It's a heavy duty truck made to haul heavy loads. Empty, it's got super brakes.(for the era) Loaded to capacity in hilly areas...not so much. The drums can heat up thus you loose braking ability. Since 55-60 was WAO (wide ass open), these love to cruise at 50.....loaded, best to stay at 45 or less.....The gearing and transmission down shifting did the bulk of slowing the thing down. Brakes, finished the stopping. You drive it like a big rig.

    When you increase the gears to a higher speed you loose a lot of that engine braking. Even with a 262 a higher gear could make it a slug down low and a jack rabbit up top when you need to stop.

    Like everything in hot rodding....You rob Peter to pay Paul.

    The Ford Curse.......

    Loadomatic

    The 262 and 223 use the LOM system. This system uses a matched carburetor and distributor. Any change in carburetors requires changing the distributor as the LOM distributors were vacuum advance only and the engine will not advance properly unless the stock system is used.
    A later 300 vacuum/mechanical distributor can be used but it requires the 262 gear and modification to the 300 distributor shaft for the oil pump drive.
    so if you want to run multiples...you have to change distributors.
    Stock this system worked well as it was designed to be trouble free.

    Steering Box

    1961-64 Specific. These use a one piece shaft. The steering wheel has to be removed and the assembly was pulled out in one long piece. These boxes do not have the aftermarket support like the F1 and early F100 boxes.
    There are companies that will build this box for you one in the PNW Seattle I believe and one in Ohio Canton or Cleveland. There may be others. You ship the box to them...they build it.
    Since the box is such a big pain in the butt, most have not been rebuilt. Do not try to adjust the looseness out of a worn box all that is for is preload.
    Cranking down on the adjustment destroys the parts in an otherwise rebuild-able box. The easy button is to remove it move and mail it off for repair.

    King pins, bushings, drag link and tie rod ends you can do or have done locally.

    There is a great gulf between the 1964 and 1965 Model Year. The 65 250 had twin I beams, big block or big six power. 73-79 disks beams and power masters are bolt ons. (pedal rod needs modification) Of this series, the Camper special...65-66 really is more suited for what you want as is all the 61-66 F100s.

    It's a neat old truck. 61-64 250s can be a pain to modify...think it through and good luck.

    P.S. Get A Shop Manual!
     
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  28. nrgwizard
    Joined: Aug 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,100

    nrgwizard
    Member
    from Minn. uSA

    I suppose there is another option. Keep the trans n rearend gears as is for needed use, but put an overdrive behind the trans. Only have to shorten the driveshaft & make OD mounts. By the time you add up all the costs of rear gears n other trans, you might be close to a good OD. Best of both worlds. But if you're gonna run faster than orig design, I would put better brakes on it, at least on the front. Old heavy duty trucks are neat, if you can use them that way. :) .
    Marcus...
     
  29. Thanks for that info @F-ONE ! Im real familiar with the ole loadomatic distributors (big Y block guy) I think I will slap a pertronix in what I got and be done with it, that is a bummer on the steering. im hoping what bit of slop i thought i felt was from the kingpins being bad. Got all that purchased so I'll start replacing it and see where it gets me. Sure helps being right down the road from charlotte, so easy to run and grab parts!
     
  30. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 25,420

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Better get it done up and ready to do some work. From Experience wives tend to figure out jobs for flatbeds that can actually haul stuff. You also figure out that a flatbed with no side racks makes a great work table if it isn't too high up.
    You never use the granny gear unless you need to use the granny gear anyhow but it is handy then. Helps pull that camp trailer or car trailer up a steep driveway without being rough on the clutch for one.
     

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