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Projects Got the engine out now what

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 50styleline, Mar 30, 2013.

  1. 50styleline
    Joined: Apr 23, 2010
    Posts: 366

    50styleline
    Member

    Well after a couple of years of gathering parts the transplant has finally started. Took out the 235/3 speed and going with 250/200r4 combo. A fellow Hamber dropped by and was a big help(Thanks Eli). Tried a differential from an Olds Bravada with disc brakes and it looks like calipers are not gonna clear the frame. Good thing I hadn't scrounged all the other brake hardware. Anyways no turning back now. Also, if use can be made of the stuff I am pulling out shoot me a PM.
     

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  2. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,252

    woodbutcher
    Member

    Hi 50styleline.Looks like a neat project.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
  3. 50styleline
    Joined: Apr 23, 2010
    Posts: 366

    50styleline
    Member

    Thanks Leo. I was not sure about dismatling a car that was still running, but everything about was needing to get reworked or was worn beyond repair, except for the 235. That one was is being saved for my Apache.
     
  4. jimstro16
    Joined: Dec 15, 2009
    Posts: 239

    jimstro16
    Member

    Dismantling is a good thing as long as you have the motivation to put it back together. Its gotta get uglier before it gets better. At least where you are you can drive it most of the year. Up here we have about 6 months of down time to put it back together.
     

  5. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    You should shut it off before dismantling. :eek::D
     
  6. Well you can't turn back now. I just hope you have really good neighbours. :)


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  7. Roger Walling
    Joined: Sep 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,149

    Roger Walling
    Member

    Do your self a favor and give the frame a good degreasing and a light sandblasting before you continue.
    You will see defects much better if there isn't shit falling in your eyes every time you put a wrench to it.

    Get a good set of jack stands that puts it high enough to sit up under the car to save your back.
    Place an old carpet under the car, there is no reason why you can't be confortable while working.
     
  8. 200-4r is a great tranny. If you're a heavy on the pedal, it's not a bad idea to spring for the upgraded internals. It's cheaper to do it now than after it's broken down on the side of the road. I did a hardened sun gear shaft, Grand National spec steels and Bands, bigger servo, and a hardened input shaft....It's been a few years, so I'd check with B&M or Transgo for the parts list, but once it's together, you'll really dig it.
     
  9. MERCURYGUY
    Joined: Jul 30, 2009
    Posts: 2,148

    MERCURYGUY
    Member

    I used Chasis Engineering for the motor mounts and tranney on my 1951 Chevy Sedan delivery. They worked out very well. I also had to remove the box on the side for air duct which needed to go. The steering is weird but it works. I also used a 57 Chevy rear. It was almost a bolt in. Good Luck on your project. Tom
     
  10. 50styleline
    Joined: Apr 23, 2010
    Posts: 366

    50styleline
    Member

    Re-animator I have the lock-up kit, but hadn't thought about the internals, thanks for the info. Roger, I got some tall 6 ton jackstands to do what you were saying but no way to sand blast in my driveway without some bitching. I wonder if a pressure washing will be good enough? Oh and the motor and tranny mounts I bought here on the Hamb. Just need to check fitment.
     
  11. 50styleline
    Joined: Apr 23, 2010
    Posts: 366

    50styleline
    Member

    Having a hard time with the pics. It's tore apart and the engine is kinda mocked up. I can already tell that the radiator is gonna have to be tweaked. The steering control arms won't let me go back that extra inch with mounts the way they came fabbed up. I have a universal tranny mount that has the four bolt holes on the ends that need to be welded to the center piece. Do you guys actually bolt this in, or can I just weld the whole thing in place?
     
  12. '41 Chev
    Joined: Feb 23, 2013
    Posts: 76

    '41 Chev
    Member

    You might check with Patrick's www.patricksantiquecars.com 520-8361117. They may have a water pump & fan that will prevent your messing with your radiator.
     
  13. thats wild a friend used one in a 54 chevy and went right in ?
     
  14. 50styleline
    Joined: Apr 23, 2010
    Posts: 366

    50styleline
    Member

    41 Chev it's a 250/200r4. I'll bet your thinking about a 235. I need to see how much further back it will go without hitting the steering.
     
  15. I love when you can drive another car for a few days and work on the car like that though, its the best, take everything out, and its so fucking easy lol. I'd pull the engine everytime I worked on it if I could lol :D.

    Sweet car too, and its cool your keeping the 6.
     
  16. One of the hardest parts of building cars is taking something apart that's running,especially this time of year,,it's spring(at least the calendar says it is) and time to be driving and enjoying the fruits of you labor! HRP
     
  17. 50styleline
    Joined: Apr 23, 2010
    Posts: 366

    50styleline
    Member

    First of all, let me explain the fugly welds. Budget build + cheap ass Harbor freight wire welder + Never really welded before + 16 gauge extension cord that felt as if it was gonna melt at any time = progress. No matter how bad or ugly I got a few passes with plenty of penetration, so they should hold. Gonna have to finish a home improvement project before I can move but please give me your thoughts or any criticism. It would be a lot easier to fix now that down the road. I know the mount on the driver side looks funny but that's what I had to do so the radiator will clear. Also have some rattle can chassis paint. What is a good primer after things are cleaned up a bit more?
     

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  18. good luck with the build....
     
  19. arto
    Joined: Nov 23, 2007
    Posts: 57

    arto
    Member

    A couple of options to keep in mind re: blasting:
    1. Dustless blasting -- this is a fairly new process, and I haven't tried this myself, I've only seen the videos, but the basic concept is they blast your parts with high pressure steam and glass beads. Video here: http://youtu.be/bCehkkTTeMk

    2. There might be industrial sandblasters who'll let DIYers rent their facilities. Here in Calgary, for example, Consolidated Compressor charges $75/hr, $15 minimum charge, sand included, and they supply all required safety gear. Dunno if this exists in your area, but it'd be worth checking out.

    You can also get pretty good results with a wire brush on a drill, but it's not going to get into all those tight corners and such.

    That's a good looking Chevy, though, good luck with your project!
     
  20. 50styleline
    Joined: Apr 23, 2010
    Posts: 366

    50styleline
    Member

    Primed and waiting to cure for paint

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     

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  21. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 8,717

    belair
    Member

    I have a 250 Mercruiser and a th350 in my 48 Fleetline. I used a 57 Chevy rear end. I don't think you need to beef up the 220-4r for a 165 hp engine. I would REALLY like to know how the trans works out, as I am thinking about one for my 48.
     
  22. 50styleline
    Joined: Apr 23, 2010
    Posts: 366

    50styleline
    Member

    Belair, I will try and keep all posted on the progress. The 250/200 r4 combo is not uncommon. Been told the 3:73 gears I want to put in the rear are the best for highway speeds.
     
  23. ^^^^^ I have run several 3:73 rear ends in different bodies, and have two of them in O/T cars now.
    Having run everything from 4:11 to 2:92(?) on the street and highway, I like the 3:73 the most. With a 29" tire, the rear is comfortable at highway speeds, but will still get you moving away from a stop light.
     
  24. 50styleline
    Joined: Apr 23, 2010
    Posts: 366

    50styleline
    Member

    Not too shabby for a $12 harbor freight gun and a rookie behind the trigger.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     

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  25. 50styleline
    Joined: Apr 23, 2010
    Posts: 366

    50styleline
    Member

    Rattle can chassis paint but well primed.
    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     

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  26. This is going to be sweet!!
     
  27. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,252

    woodbutcher
    Member

    Speaking of "rattle can"paint.Is epoxy primer available in a rattle can,and what brand or brands?Thanks for any info.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
  28. 50styleline
    Joined: Apr 23, 2010
    Posts: 366

    50styleline
    Member

    One step closer.

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  29. 50styleline
    Joined: Apr 23, 2010
    Posts: 366

    50styleline
    Member

    Isaac, I don't know if this helps but if you look at crank pulley this is where it's gonna sit.

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  30. 50styleline
    Joined: Apr 23, 2010
    Posts: 366

    50styleline
    Member

    My radiator overflow bottle. From what I found on the net this company went out of business over a hundred years ago.
    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     

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