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Technical Got her to start but won’t idle

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Christie, Jun 6, 2020.

  1. Christie
    Joined: Jun 4, 2007
    Posts: 187

    Christie
    Member

    Nope. I did have the poppers working but when I rewired it your way nothing worked lol


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  2. Christie
    Joined: Jun 4, 2007
    Posts: 187

    Christie
    Member

    Lol! Yes, thank you, I don’t feel as bad that I’m the only one confused hahahahaha. I swear I’m ready to just never roll my windows up and reach in to open doors forever at this point!!!


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  3. DIYGUY
    Joined: Sep 8, 2015
    Posts: 888

    DIYGUY
    Member
    from West, TX

    upload_2020-7-22_16-28-35.jpeg
    Do you have this type solenoid?
    One wire is “lock” the other is “unlock”
    Neither wire is grounded. Is your “button” 2 position “lock and unlock?
    That works correctly ?
     
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  4. Christie
    Joined: Jun 4, 2007
    Posts: 187

    Christie
    Member

    My solenoid is wired to a push button. So I think the term is single throw? It looks a lot like an ignition coil with one wire that connects to the button. I am going back into garage in a moment, I’ll take some pics of what I have


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  5. Christie
    Joined: Jun 4, 2007
    Posts: 187

    Christie
    Member

    IMG_9223.JPG



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  6. DIYGUY
    Joined: Sep 8, 2015
    Posts: 888

    DIYGUY
    Member
    from West, TX

    The green/white wire from transmitter is the “unlock” wire. Connect it to terminal 86. You said you got a clicking noise from the transmitter when pressing the button? If you have a multimeter or test light see if the green/white wire has 12volts when it clicks.
     
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  7. DIYGUY
    Joined: Sep 8, 2015
    Posts: 888

    DIYGUY
    Member
    from West, TX

    Did all these parts come together in the same kit? Are you operating door latches ( I was thinking door locks)
     
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  8. Christie
    Joined: Jun 4, 2007
    Posts: 187

    Christie
    Member

    They all came together in the same kit. I’m kinda done for today. It’s too hot and I think my brain is melting. Nothing is making any sense for me anymore. I’ll try again tomorrow and keep you updated. Lol


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  9. You are doing the right thing by drawing everything out, it does help. Speaking of help, does the help # on the sheet you posted work?
     
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  10. Christie
    Joined: Jun 4, 2007
    Posts: 187

    Christie
    Member

    I called them and the guy said he’s going to have a technician call me to help me but I have ants in the pants that I want it done now LOL


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  11. 37 caddy
    Joined: Mar 4, 2010
    Posts: 338

    37 caddy
    Member
    from PEI Canada

    make sure you have a good ground in the doors,possible you have poor ground as the doors are on hinges,have seen that before,they use brass bushings some times and you cant get continuity to them? maybe run a seperate ground wire for the solenoids. harvey
     
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  12. Christie
    Joined: Jun 4, 2007
    Posts: 187

    Christie
    Member

    The solenoids work fine when just wired to the buttons inside the cab. So I know they are grounded. My issue is how to incorporate the wires for the keyless fob transmitter. That’s where I’m totally lost.


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  13. DIYGUY
    Joined: Sep 8, 2015
    Posts: 888

    DIYGUY
    Member
    from West, TX

    I guess my instructions were clear as mud .:(
     
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  14. Christie
    Joined: Jun 4, 2007
    Posts: 187

    Christie
    Member

    They were clear. It’s my brain that’s muddy. Lol! I seriously couldn’t think straight by the end of the day. Even had dreams last night about relays and fuse boxes.


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  15. DIYGUY
    Joined: Sep 8, 2015
    Posts: 888

    DIYGUY
    Member
    from West, TX

    Not sure, but I don’t think you need a relay between your transmitter and the popper. Your button needs to control the relay but I think the transmitter has a built in relay, so the unlock wire could go more directly to the popper. I am assuming you have the transmitter wired to power and forget about all the other wires to lights etc.
     
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  16. Christie
    Joined: Jun 4, 2007
    Posts: 187

    Christie
    Member

    Just heard from the company, they are saying that system won’t work for what I’m trying to do. I can’t imagine why. I’m going to go out there later sometime today. I’m going to wire the door poppers back to work with the button and then take a break for a day. Hopefully my brain will get a better grasp after resting a day or two. My next thing I want to do is wire in a radio to speakers so I can play music. I found one for $20 on amazon. So many wires, so little brain power. Lol. Thank you for sticking with me through this! You all are awesome


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  17. DIYGUY
    Joined: Sep 8, 2015
    Posts: 888

    DIYGUY
    Member
    from West, TX

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  18. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,181

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Mount another switch under the rocker panel that you can operate with your foot.
     
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  19. Christie
    Joined: Jun 4, 2007
    Posts: 187

    Christie
    Member

    I was planning on doing that too as a back up to key fobs


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  20. Christie
    Joined: Jun 4, 2007
    Posts: 187

    Christie
    Member

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  21. motorplex88
    Joined: Jan 2, 2014
    Posts: 27

    motorplex88
    Member

    I see no reason why this would not work. One push button per door under each rocker. No fobs involved. I could be wrong. Have been before so I've been told. {grin}
     
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  22. Just reading thru here quickly again I get the impression that you're maybe complicating things by trying combine the functions of the alarm/remote keyless entry kit with your door latch release solenoids. If that's the case I doubt you'll ever get it all to work the way you're expecting it to.

    Keep the door latch release solenoids (door poppers) and wired push buttons together by themselves. Then the renote keyless entry door lock and unlock parts and the keyless trunk release and alarm system should also be wired up by themselves with out any common connections with the "door popper" solenoids or switches.

    You'll have a much better chance of success by keeping these two systems isolated from each other. :cool:
     
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  23. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,181

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    It is also good practice to run a safety wire somewhere to be able to release the latch encase of battery or solenoid failure.
     
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  24. Christie
    Joined: Jun 4, 2007
    Posts: 187

    Christie
    Member

    IMG_0293.JPG
    Figured it out! This is the layout I used. Both doors work from the buttons in the cab and the keyless pad works just for the drivers door. Thank you guys for all your suggestions, advice and support as usual!! You’re all the best! :)


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  25. ^^^^^ The transmitter is a negative signal and not a positive! Good work.
     
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  26. lostmind
    Joined: Aug 21, 2011
    Posts: 2,048

    lostmind
    Member

    If you run a second wire off of terminal 87 to the other solenoid it should work both at same time.
     
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  27. Christie
    Joined: Jun 4, 2007
    Posts: 187

    Christie
    Member

    So, I’ve been doing small things here And there in my free time. Hooked up a new radio with speakers. But.....One thing That’s been pointed out to me is my rear blinkers are not working, however the front do. The taillights DO work, just don’t blink. Any advice on what could cause this?


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  28. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 1,653

    rusty valley
    Member

    got the original column in it yet?
     
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  29. Does the car have factory or aftermarket signals?
     
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