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Got a FREE 2000 Explorer as a DONOR for 56 F100. What to keep/Junk???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tlmartin84, Jan 26, 2012.

  1. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 765

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    I got this thing just for the rear axle, it was free for me to haul. Motor is shot (plus its a V6), but below is parts I've came up with to swipe for my 56' Build. Am I missing anything before I junk it???

    1. Rear axle and sway bar. Should I use the rear leafs from the exporer or use the stock leafs?

    2. Gas tank, Filler neck and door. Can I use the fuel pump to run a 450ish carb?

    3. Electric Bucket Seats.

    4. What about P/S pump? AC Pump? Any switches or anything else I should grab?

    5. Front Sway Bar.

    Anything else, I'd love to leave it setting but wife won't have another vehicle in the yard!
     
  2. dontlifttoshift
    Joined: Sep 17, 2005
    Posts: 651

    dontlifttoshift
    Member

    keep the rear end and maybe the seats...the rest is scrap to me but your repurposing abilities may be better than mine.
     
  3. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,530

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    Maybe the radiator/trans/ps coolers? master cylinder?
     
  4. Al Von
    Joined: Nov 19, 2005
    Posts: 257

    Al Von
    Member

    Fuel pump is high-pressure for the EFI, wont work with a carb system. BUT, save the rest of the in-tank stuff for a low pressure pump install.
     
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  5. Nick_R_23
    Joined: Mar 28, 2010
    Posts: 127

    Nick_R_23
    Member

    Stick the entire chassis underneath your truck. IFS, rack and pinion, and 4 wheel discs sure are nice. Doing this exact swap under my '50 Chevy 3100. I seem to remember someone else doing an F1 and it fit pretty well.
     
  6. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 765

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Its 4x4..........or else I would keep the front end.
     
  7. crx20si
    Joined: Dec 16, 2011
    Posts: 10

    crx20si
    Member
    from miami

    So can it fit and will it fit?
     
  8. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,948

    metal man
    Member

    Get the fuses and relays,maybe the swing pedal assembly as well as m/c,booster.
     
  9. Dirk35
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 2,024

    Dirk35
    Member

    Pull out all of the seat belts. They are easy to install into a Hot Rod, will look right if they are the correct color and will save you about $250.

    The rear seat splits into two so it sucks.

    Cut out ALL the pig-tails out of the wiring harness, especially where they use the weather pack connectors. When you install the gauges in your project, a 12 pin or more connector is great to have to you can install your gauges as a pod and make them easily removable. Try to get every single plug on both the male and female side with about 6inches of wire. You can buy new pins for about 50 cents a pin for the plugs through the local parts store and just remove them using a precision screwdriver and will look way neater then a butt connector and heat shrink.

    The emergency brake pedal is good to have. Easy to make it useable and hide it under the kick panel upholstery.

    Keep the drive shaft. It bolts up to the rear end and any drive line shop (think Semi Trucks) can cut the front of the drive shaft and weld it to the proper yoke for whatever transmission you decide to use. They will balance it too.

    Light assemblies are good to hide under the dash as a courtesy light. Wire them into series with your dome light.

    The Brake bracket is good to pull and use for the brake light switch and to either modify it for use or use it was an idea to make your own. I made my under-dash brake pedal assembly out of ¼ plate and the bushing assembly from a 90 Ford F150.

    The rear window wiper and washer on many of the SUV’s will easily work for a single wiper install above the windshield.

    Take the Horn. Heck, do you not remember just how happy you were when you found a $5 bill blowing across the Wal Mart Parking lot?

    Get the switch and light for the under-the-hood light.

    ------------------------------------------------

    Maybethe next will be useful for you but for the most part, The Next few ideas are stretching it and only need considered if you really want:

    The Explorers have cool sun visors that are two peice. They are cheap to have the mirrors removed and re-upholstered.

    The tank is useable, if it is the similar to a late 80s Jeep Grand Cherokee, remove the in-tank pump, cap off the old line and use the return line as the feed line. Yes, you need to use a filter somewhere in line.

    If you plan to ever use it, take the whole filler neck by using a cut-off wheel about 6 inches all the way around the filler. That way, if you ever do want to use a filler door, you don’t need to pay $200 for a generic one. If you know you won’t use something like that, don’t waste your time.

    Just a thought to save you the $30 for a switch and $25 for the pigtail……On the last Hot Rod I built, I hid the light switch up under the dash. You quickly learn where it is and it keeps the dash clean, so it wouldn’t matter what it looks like.

    You say you are building a 56…. If you plan to do Heat and A/C, you might want to look if the condenser as something you can keep. Also, windshield washer motor might be a thought…. Not sure what the Explorers look like or where it’s located.

    Hope this helps.
     
  10. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 765

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    If I plan to use the PS and AC pumps can they be switched to a vbelt???
     
  11. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 765

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    UGGHHH went to pick it up and its has a 4.10 Open Diff in it............I went ahead and hauled it home because its a FREEBIE but now I still gotta find an axle!

    What a day!
     

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