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Got a couple Flatheads. What to do before first startup in many years?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Richard D, Sep 7, 2010.

  1. A complete 8BA, carb to pan, turns free. A59AB that is frozen and is just a short block. Lots of spare parts as well, they are in the back of my buddy's truck on the way from Louisiana. I know there is a ton of info here on these engines, and plan to do a bunch of reading on the subject. But I want to play with them tonight! (I'm impatient!). In the mean time, should I pull the heads on the 8BA and look for cracks around the valves, or just spray some oil in the spark plug holes, put in some new plugs, and try to fire her up?
     
  2. jetmek
    Joined: Jan 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,846

    jetmek
    Member

    make sure sludged up oilpan isnt blocking oilpickup tube if you try to fire it up
     
  3. johnny bondo
    Joined: Aug 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,547

    johnny bondo
    Member
    from illinois

    the froze one needs to come apart. and if you knew what was good for you you should do that to the other one first if youre gonna run it in anything. the oil passages INSIDE the crank need to be clear for the oil to flow to all the bearings and such. but if youre going to half ass it, clean out the pan, spray some oil into the cylinders, take the intake off and oil up all the lifters and valves.
     
  4. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 6,989

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    I agree... for the most part. If the 8ba looks pretty clean, pull the intake and look in the valley, if everything still looks pretty clean and the valves are not sticking, I'd be inclined to fire it up. If it looks crusty and sludgy, you'd be wise to go through it.

    Also, I know guys do it often with no bad results, but I'm not really for firing engines up with no cooling system in place. Even a few seconds of running can create localized hot spots and in an engine that you have no knowledge of it's history, that can be bad news.
     

  5. A lot of parts! Five spare 8BA heads(only one right side? Weird.) One pair 59AB heads. Half a dozen water pumps, all but one turn, half a dozen fuel pumps, lots of bearings still in boxes, some boxes falling apart and (probably) useless bearings inside(all useless?),a generator and fan, an extra starter, both rusty, maybe junk, maybe not.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Don't see any cracks so far...
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    The 59AB doesn't look to have any cracks, at least around the valves.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    The 8BA turns freely with a little Crescent wrench, if it's not cracked, I'd say I'm golden. I'm not going to do anythig with it before I take it apart and clean it up, and check for cracks.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. RoadWarrior13
    Joined: Jun 8, 2009
    Posts: 168

    RoadWarrior13
    Member
    from Louisiana

    hey man ... I am in Louisiana what are you building and what city are you in ? Would you like to sell a set of those heads ?
     
  7. I bought them from a H.A.M.B.er in Louisana; my buddy just brought them over here to Texas for me today. I might sell a set of the 8BA heads, but the shipping is probably more than they are worth.
     
  8. Well, I thought I had a can of "Break-it-loose-juice", but it was LPS degreaser. Needs degreasing anyway, I'll get some of the other tomorrow and spray her down. Looks like she's already been converted to 12V.
    [​IMG]
    What type carb is this?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. johnny bondo
    Joined: Aug 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,547

    johnny bondo
    Member
    from illinois

    that motor looks pretty crusty, id try to clean it up even if its not stuck.you never know what its been through or what went down the carb or down draft tube. the carb is an EAB? style ford 94? basically a 94 with a different top on it for that style of air cleaner mount.
     
  10. I plan to dissasemble it and check it out before I do anything with it.

    Carb has-
    MODEL
    EB
    cast into it, in a circle, and it looks like a "V" stamped after "EB"

    I was looking at the 94s on my 6x2 setup in the garage, and yes, it is similar except for the top. Funny, only two of the six are identical; different model numbers, on the same spot as the "EB" on the flathead.
     
  11. kisam
    Joined: Feb 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,920

    kisam
    Member

    Cool score Richard! Are you putting that in your T?
     
  12. rafael
    Joined: Jun 28, 2007
    Posts: 194

    rafael
    Member
    from Moody AFB

  13. Possibly, depends on what it takes to get one of them running.
     
  14. Ole don
    Joined: Dec 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,915

    Ole don
    Member

    Cracks in blocks are not easy to spot. My block was cleaned twice, then I stood over the guy doing the magnaflux just to watch. No cracks showed up in the valve area. The block was bored, and decked. They started grinding the seats, on the very last one, a hairline crack showed up right through the front exhaust seat. It was repaired and it has not leaked in six years.
     
  15. f1 fred
    Joined: Apr 29, 2005
    Posts: 514

    f1 fred
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from mn

    Cool! I hope you can get one of em' up and running! I am in the same boat as you. I have a flatty that has not run in 10 years so I will be watching this one.
     
  16. Jonny69
    Joined: Jul 24, 2007
    Posts: 275

    Jonny69
    Member
    from England

    You might find some of the vales are stuck open. Not uncommon on flatties that haven't run in some time.
     
  17. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 6,989

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    EBV is an early Y block #
     
  18. johnny bondo
    Joined: Aug 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,547

    johnny bondo
    Member
    from illinois

    the internals are a little different sometimes, they have diff size holes in the bottom(most are AA1 i think, which are like a 11/16???), and some have different aspirating nozzles.
     
  19. olcurmdgeon
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 2,298

    olcurmdgeon
    Member

    I am interested too. Just got a '52 Ford motor, turns over fine, unknown mileage but was in car with hood on it, and radiator gone so it was "dry".
     
  20. O.K., got all 24 head bolts off on both sides real easily, is there a trick to pulling the head? Tried a small prybar, and a rubber mallet, and a sledge with a block of wood for a softener, no luck.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2010
  21. Rue13
    Joined: Jun 21, 2010
    Posts: 1

    Rue13
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Bump cause I am very interested in this thread.
     
  22. johnny bondo
    Joined: Aug 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,547

    johnny bondo
    Member
    from illinois

    theres not really an easy way to do it, just pop it up enough to get your fingers under it and pull.

    so how does it look inside? i find that those 2 inch brass wire wheels work nice to clean up rusty cylinders.(before you try to turn it over) then blow it all out and wipe the cylinder walls with oil. take the intake off and check that too. try turning the engine over while watching the valves one by one and see if they are all moving. if they are stuck spray it heavily with penetrating oil as well as the lifter. put the crank to a position that opens the other valve(because the other one wont be open then) lightly tap the center of the valve until it "pops" back down. once all the valves are moving. drool oil all over them and the lifters. now pull the oil pan, clean that out good. take the oil pump off and clean that up really good. turn the oil pump by hand with some oil it in and make sure its pumping. take your hand and pull up and down on the rod ends they shouldnt "click" but if you hear an oil "scoosh" noise thats ok. but if they are bone dry they might just need some oil.maybe pull the caps and inspect for spun bearings while youre at it and give them a nice coating of oil or assembly grease. check pump drive gears on back of block and oil.
     
  23. big bad john
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 4,727

    big bad john
    Member

    Hope you get it running......good luck
     
  24. Last edited: Sep 9, 2010
  25. uh...not sure where your at...the old guys always say...do a compression check if it turns over...that will tell you something you need to know....just saiyin....
     
  26. Maybe I should have done a compression check before pulling the head, to see if it had good compression, leaking valves, etc. I didn't, because I plan to tear this engine all the way down anyway.
     
  27. I will be doing all this. The left side head is off, bores are real clean, only a slight ridge. No stuck valves. I'm not following this,"take your hand and pull up and down on the rod ends they shouldnt "click" but if you hear an oil "scoosh" noise thats ok." You mean the piston rods, while still on the crank? Are they not a tight fit on the bearings, have a thick oil film between them that you can feel moving? Please elaborate.
     

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