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Technical Good Primer for Blasted Metal

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by NasT, Jan 29, 2021.

  1. NasT
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 164

    from MD

    Hello going to be de-rusting some Model A panels soon and doing metal work.

    What's a good sealer primer or any kind of primer you guys are using for that application to preserve after metal work?

    I used to use just red oxide but I'm sure things have come a long way since.

  2. chop&drop
    Joined: Oct 11, 2006
    Posts: 611


    I use PPG DP90. Pricey but good stuff.
    john worden, X38 and oldiron 440 like this.
  3. AngleDrive
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,098

    from Florida

    PPG DP90 which is black. You can get it other tints. Metal wash using their DX products. I use USC Allmetal filler on the bare metal. You can metal wash over that product. Plastic filler can be used over DP. Yes, it is expensive.
    john worden and oldiron 440 like this.
  4. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 3,130

    oldiron 440

    Epoxy, DP primers are the primer for sandblasted surfaces!
    john worden likes this.

  5. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,148

    from New York

    Absolutely, DP90 is the way to go.
    john worden likes this.
  6. millersgarage
    Joined: Jun 23, 2009
    Posts: 2,214


    CRE-321 from PPG. Awesome epoxy primer.
    I've been applying it with a roller too. WAY less messy in the shop
    RMR&C and Black_Sheep like this.
  7. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 53,396


    red oxide is a could be lacquer, enamel, urethane, epoxy, etc.

    How much work do you have to do to the parts after blasting and priming? How much moisture will they see? How nice are you going to do the body and paint work on this car? maybe there's a one size fits all answer, but I would think about things a bit before committing to something.
  8. I usually use etching primer with fresh blasted metal, then work the metal, you can re-prime when your ready to paint. HRP
  9. NasT
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 164

    from MD

    Squirrel, that's why I'm asking. :rolleyes:

    Sounds like DP90 is in the running.
  10. Souther Polyurethane Epoxy
    Or PPG industrial epoxy. It’s 1:1 like the real DP used to be. Lays down better.
    the industrial epoxy cost me around $125 for a 2 gallon kit.
    I prefer it over the DPlf which is not the same as the old DP most of us used back in the day.

    For a lower cost to keep parts from rusting while you build, the cheap 5 star epoxy works great.
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2021
    klleetrucking likes this.
    Joined: Nov 7, 2008
    Posts: 122


    Always used PPG DP epoxy. It is proven. Sandblasted a chassis, primed with DP primer, sat in elements for about 6 years. No rust came through, lost its luster but protected the metal.
  12. fresh hops
    Joined: Oct 19, 2019
    Posts: 65

    fresh hops

    I agree with millersgarage except I use CRE 921 Black epoxy, I use it when I surface treat with acid to remove rust.
    I use SPI black epoxy when its just bare metal. Both of these are outstanding primers in my opinion.
    I used to use DP40 back in the day but the PPG industrial CRE line is really good and much cheaper.
    The black sprays out to a semi-gloss and has great fill qualities.
    anthony myrick likes this.
  13. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 53,396


    hmmmm...I was hinting that if you gave us more info about your project, we could give you a better answer. But I guess that's not important.
  14. I also like this polyester
  15. NasT
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 164

    from MD

    okay a little more info

    I will be blasting the metal clean installing patches and then I want to seal that to move on to the next part. I'm kind of doing one piece at a time. I won't be able to put filler on within the week time frame. It looks like I can do a scuff and apply filler over the DP 90 primer.

    Thank you all for the suggestions keep them coming!
  16. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 5,349


    SPI, southern polyurethanes.

    And I have DP90LF on my current project, switching to SPI for the next one.

    For reference, you can get it in cruddy red as well.
    DP40LF (Gray-Green), DP48LF (White), DP50LF (Gray), DP60LF (Blue), DP74LF (Red Oxide), and DP90LF (Black)
    jaw22w likes this.
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 1,275


  18. chargin03
    Joined: Jan 8, 2013
    Posts: 510


  19. ronzmtrwrx
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,002


    Another vote here for PPG CRE epoxy. It’s part of their industrial line of products. It has about twice the filling properties than the DP products at about half the price. It also sands easily. The DP lead free epoxy of today is simply not as good as the old DP. It will turn loose in tight inside corners if you happen to get it on the least bit too heavy.
    anthony myrick likes this.
  20. A 2 B
    Joined: Dec 2, 2015
    Posts: 359

    A 2 B
    from SW Ontario

    DP90 is what I have on hand and have used it for dozens of projects. Its great for keeping flash rust from forming until you are ready to move on to a high build primer or filler where needed. A light scuff with 180 paper will make sure that good adhesion is achieved if the DP90 has been applied for an extended period. If being kept outside in the elements two light coats will protect it.
  21. I’m not a fan of the new DP either.
    ronzmtrwrx likes this.
  22. This question was just asked last week and answered by the same people.:mad::mad::mad::mad:SEARCH!:mad::mad::mad::mad:
  23. aerocolor
    Joined: Oct 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,203

    from dayton

    Used to use DP90 but found a better product.
    Axalta DTM 2590. DP 90 fades badly if subjected to UV. You can run 2590 as a topcoat and it stays semi gloss.
    Great stuff and tough as hell.
  24. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 13,118

    jimmy six

    I’m not a painter but have painted a few race cars. From experience is would stick to the same brand you are planning on using for the final paint. I’ve had cars that bubbled because products were not compatible. Good luck
  25. NasT
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 164

    from MD

    Sorry man! I'm on here frequently, I honestly didn't see. Nobody said checkout another thread.
    warhorseracing likes this.
  26. HRBOB34
    Joined: Oct 1, 2009
    Posts: 400


    I use Master series rust paint!
    Great base!
    The guy that does my sand blasting, will spray
    it on for me right after blasting.
    Good stuff!

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