Features Good or bad let us see pictures of your F1 or F100!!!!

Was I driving 5 miles pernhour? My brakes went out on me the other day on Nimitz and I had to drive home like that! I'm trying to decide what to do about my lack of brakes right now. I'd like to upgrade but...

 

Damn they're some beautiful trucks on here !!!!

 

Just found out my radiator is junk. It came out of a Dodge or Plymouth depending on who you talk to. I need to replace it and was wondering if you or anyone knows if a 6 cylinder original radiator will work with an sbc. I have a stock 350 that won't be anything more than a daily driver and LMC has those radiators for about $250 plus shipping. Any advice?

 

My old 56. Camaro sub-framed, 327/4 spd. Took five inches out of the chassis and bed (and running boards) to shorten up the truck. Note the distance between the bed and the rear fenders.

 

It was parked somewhere but I didn't have time to stop & check it out, I'm glad you got home okay. As for the stock brakes, they can be rebuilt cheaply enough. Check with Napa Mapunapuna, I wouldn't be surprised if they had parts in stock.
The '56 F100 that is my avatar had stock brakes on front & slightly wider shoes on the 9 inch in back. During normal driving they worked fine. However, slowing it down after hammering the 429 & 4 speed was another story.

 

I have advice but it'll cost you some info....

Does the Mopar radiator have an embossed number on the tank? how thick is the core? with how many rows of tubes? and was your core support modified to accept it?

Now on to what I know.......

I helped a good friend back in the 80's install a solid lifter 396 Chevy in his daily driver 1950 F1 that had an original 6cyl radiator. The inlets and outlets are Chevy friendly.

He had the radiator rodded out and pressure tested. It worked fine for the couple of years before he sold the truck.

We'd make 90 mile trips from Borrego Springs CA to Glamis across the SoCal desert and he never broke down.

This guy had a small cabover camper in the bed, pulled a trailer with his sand buggy, a pair of 3 wheelers and camping gear.

My concern with a replacement radiator would be the density of the cooling fins and the number of rows. My original radiator you can barely see through the core because the fins are so dense.

It's a 2 row core but the individual cooling tubes are about twice as wide as a modern radiator. My core is as thick as a modern 4 row.
~Mark



Well, since I'm already here, I might as well toss up a couple more photos of my pile that I took earlier today, since I put on some different wheels, rubber and caps yesterday.

 

Thanks for the info Mark. After I posted last night I remembered that I'm thinking about dropping in a Y-block or Flathead V8 after the Chebby wears out, maybe I'll get the V-8 radiator and cap the extra tubes.
The current radiator has 1686202 AB on the top tank. The core support did not need to be modified, but I had to drill holes in the flanges on the radiator to match the core support. The radiator is still at the shop but I'll be picking it up today. I think it had three rows but I'll check closer.
I'd like to get this one recored if I could afford it but its $450-$500 to do so. The LMC radiators are cheaper. Hell if you want my old one I'll send it to you.
By the way, the new wheel and tire combo looks bitchin'!
Eli

 

1686202 AB = 1957 Dodge & Desoto w/V8 & no A/C.

I have a Desoto friend so I'll go have a look at his stuff.
~Mark

 

Here are a couple of my F100 Sold it to a guy in Holland a couple of years ago.

 

Here's mine. I have had it for about 15 years and finally got it finished up a couple months ago.



And it is for sale here.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=628011

 

Thanks fellas.

 

Here is a unibody we did as a family project for my parents who are in their 80's. They picked the build style, colour, etc. and it took 2 years working part time on it to build.

 

It must be a radiator people found that worked for our F1's because I picked up a 49 F1 last week that has a Mopar radiator in it. I have yet to check the number's nor do I know if it still works...Looks good in there though

 

A friends 56' F100.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1104116-a-friends-56-bw-flightning-build-picture-darkside.html

 

Congrats on a family project. It is a very clean uni! Please post more details of it if you don't mind.

 

Here's my new-to-me '49:

 

BTT for Kyle C. ! Now do a intro to the HAMB and let's see the 56 here !

 

hey there Frosty, what engine is this L6? looks just like a Holden 6

 

Friend of mine.

 

Its a 250 6 cylinder out of a first generation Camaro. Can't wait to get it out on the road.

 

I recently bought this 54 f100 223/3 on the tree for $500. I know the guy i bought it from well. Somebody hacked the dash to fit a 65 mustang cluster but at least its been converted to 12 volt also came with 2 chrome reverse wheels done back in the day chbrome has seen better days. Here is where it gets tricky, the vin plate is mia. He says he had the drivers door replaced when the truck was 10 years old due to an accident there is no sign of holes for the plate in the glove box so I assume the it was on the door and now gone. Ive heard you guys mention the serial number on the frame. Where is it? and lastly where can i get a repro vin plate and the rest of the info besides the vin that goes on the plate. Enjoy the pics

 

The vin is always on the glove box door, Are you sure it wasn't removed and the holes filled? Do you have the title for it? If so you might find someone that could make a plate. As for the serial number on the frame my 54 didn't have one, I was told if there is one it's supposed to be on the pass side frame rail either under the cab or towards the front. I'll have to look around but I think I might have a extra vin plate however you have to make sure your vin or vin plate isn't stamped or placed somewhere on the truck.

 

Just got his from a Hamber...
A lot of work to do, but its what I wanted

 

Look on the frame rail forward of the cab, that's the one that really matters. Probably hard to see after all these years.

 

I fabbed my motor mounts up yesterday. Now I'm just a few bolts, some hoses, and wiring away from the road.

 

about a month ago, before i tore her down for bodywork/paint

 

I do have the title its in my name. Unless someone redid the factory blue under the red on the glove box it hasnt been touched. If I took a wire wheel to the frame would it hurt the numbers? So far the gist of what i get for location is the passenger side rail somewhere under or in front of the cab. I have been told by multiple sources that the vin can be found on the drivers side door front or front pillar drivers side of the cab.

 

Here's my project 63 f100 picked it up for $400. Has only 4863 original miles. Some one had started a resto but never finished. Now I get to redo their work.

 

Check the area up by the right front spring shock mount on the top of the frame. If you use a regular wire wheel you should be okay, maybe try a scraper and sandpaper first. This a pic that shows the location on my '51 F1. Most 50s trucks I've seen had the serial # in that area.