Good Lord, is it that time already? It's the Monthly Banger Meet again!

Just thinking out aloud here.

Is it possible to have an oil leak from the cam at the back of the block that gives the symptoms of a rear main leak?

 

It most certainly is!
I chased that one around for a while. I'd been assured that it wasn't my one-piece rear seal that was leaking and the most likely candidate was the back of the cam. It wasn't though...the seal had been fitted wrong, but I researched it a little and found that they can leak from there. You've got to make sure that the gasket is sealed up nice. I've even heard of some folks machining a little off the end of the cam and fitting a core plug into that area.

This on your dad's engine?

 

I found this old picture of my '32 Plymouth when it had the '57 Ford 292 head on it. It ran 135 with this setup, and we set the V4/GR record at Muroc at 130. Since we don't run there anymore I guess we will have that record for a long time. I would make the picture bigger If I knew how.

 

I'm thinking of using a Chevy 4 in one of my T projects. I've got a '27 engine with a '28 head. Is there a source of good cams for these (by good, I mean like Stipes' T and A cams...not a regrind)? What about valve springs?

I've been told that the clutch is junk on these. Is that correct? Is there a direct replacement Long type clutch that will work?

Anything else to watch out for, or tricks to do to make big improvements in power? I'd like to see about 50-60 horsepower out of this engine because I'll probably be using it in a heavy Tudor. Is that much horsepower possible without getting too radical with the modifications?

 

Seems like its the month for weddings, did a mates wedding this month along with my neighbours lads high scool prom.
Still collecting bits for my B engine, nearly there now just got to save up for the machine shop and babbit work.

 

No, this is in regards to my good broken engine.

When I stole the bellhousing and flywheel for the other engine I noticed the half round block/bellhousing gasket was really wet with oil around the back of the cam.

I've never seen it like that before, just usually get a circle mark in the gasket.

 

We're still "thrashing on getting my 16 year daughter's car ready for debut in Grand Rapids next week. Her 12 year old brother is handling the spray gun duties...



First pic is the "Before" pic.

Used a Huggie's Trash Bag orange box as the base color.
Added a little Orange Pearl and a little Gold Pearl.
Finished up with PPG 2050 High Solids Clear Urethane.

 

Bent,..thats awsome!! good to get the entire family involved!!

 

Yeah, so I've been busy lately....kicked up the rear of the frame about 2" yesterday, plugged up a few uneeded holes, bent up a set of headlight mounts from a '32 headlight bar, playing with a few ideas for a grill and radiator figuring out the headlights,....
Got the Thomas head on, runs NICE!! Getting a Winfield Red Head from a buddy of mine on a trade,...that will replace the Thomas for now,...I'm working on my buddy to badger HIS buddy who supposedly has a Cragar OHV system,...Lord knows I'd love to have one!!!

Adjusted the brakes a little,...still need some work in that area,...need to read up on them, etc. Going to make a dash, chop a grille shell, and freshen up my engine mounts tomorrow,...maybe get some body work in too if I can manage with it being the 4th and all!...
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....BY THE WAY!!,...Can anyone tell me how old these headlights are? 30's, 40's 50s? They are BLC Model 904-A Let me know,...if old enough I'd like to use them on the banger!!!??

 

Very nice looking kickup!

 

Well, since I am thinking that my pick up will be finished by the end of the year I started thinking about "what next?"

Here is the start of my 23 T roadster like what I let slip away before. I have got a diff and rear spring. Headlights are coming and I have a spare T5 S10 gearbox.

Basically once I have got my pick up on the road, work will start on this one.

 

why, thank you...much appreciated....fully TIG welded,...should hold very well.

On an annoying note,...I took off the rear u bolts and found that the rear crossmember had cracks at those points where the u bolts went over it, extending/starting at the holes on the top and extending out about 1-1 1.3" long,...not cool! I was debating whether to do a complete takeout and replacement of the entire rear crossmember,..OR,..V-groovethe cracked out, and fill it in, then pad-weld the hell out of it,...

After much thought, and the heat getting to me, I realized i did not want to spend a good two hours or more between the takeout and replacement,...I took the second option,...v-grooved it, TIG welded it back up,...then put about three to four layers of TIG pad weld over it all in a rectangular pattern and built up up just as much to reinforce the holes for the U bolts.

...of course then I found someone had to do something similar to the front crossmember,...I ground out their crap,...TIG'd the hell out of it, and threw in some lighter pad welds on top also,...If this comes apart now I'd have to had hit a brick wall or a 6" deep pothole in the process!!!!

 

anyone know anything about billet aluminum connecting rods?
i pulled the breater on my motor and discovered an awfully hefty looking billet aluminum connecting rod
sorry the picture isnt great
hard to get light in there and get it to focus right

its milled out on the sides to be an H shape and looks like its just angular around the bearing

anyone have any ideas what they are?
thanks
Zach

 

Oooo, aluminium connecting rods!

Would that be a nice surprise?

Bob McKinney's REM aluminium rods match your description. Bob recently passed away.

 

I have a set of REM Al. billet rods that I ran in my Winfield "A". Bob used the same billet for both "A"'and "B" so I had to use a "B" pan I never had anything serious except when the cam would creep forward because of the 80 lb. oil pump the rods would get a little chewed by the cam lobes. I had a crank break once and had to purchase a new rod from Bob. Just prior to this Bob had told me that he was going to dump the rest of his model "A rods because no one wanted them, he then charged me $160 for one rod. I bought a new set of 4" pistons and had to have the rods modified to use chevy pins. I had the engine, which had been running, ready to button up when I noticed excessive flywheel runout which was caused by a cracked crank. So I have a set of model "A" Al rods with new 4" pistons and rings in a box.
Do you want a picture to compare?

 

I am starting to gather parts for another project. Planning on building a 26 - 27 T Roadster with a banger and on A or 32 rails haven't decided yet. Well I am just starting to poke around and learn the bangers. I found a 34 B that is stuck and a running early B that needs a sleeve. I believe the guy wants to much for them. He is asking $1000.00. I know I can pick up A motors a lot cheaper and they are a lot easier to find. Should I build an A or B motor or a hybrid of each.

Thanks
Darrin

 

CoalTown... that motor looks great. So many cool projects on here.
I just want to blab,
Took the pick-m-up for it's farthest run to date. About a 120 miles roundtrip through the backways between Ashland and Grant's Pass Oregon. Quite beautiful country 'round hear.
I've had her running for a month or so now. Feeling pretty confident in her really.
I had to keep an eye on the radiator cap though. When the motor got to excited it would start pushing water out from under the cap. Had to pull over a couple times to wipe the windshield clear. Never thought I would need a wiper on this one.
Seems like top speed with out it splashing must have been about 40 MPH. Is this why people run a smaller pulley on the crank, to slow the water pump down.
Also this seat hurts the bum after a couple hours. So much for Army surplus camping pads.
Keep the bangers alive, corn boy

 

7:1 head, New B cam, 12volt, alternator, pertronix, dropped axle, fully synchronized, overdrive, 1935 Ford wheels with 195/80R16 tires, self energizing, self adjusting brakes, 2" shoes, 1940/41 brake drums, driven daily thru 4 states

 

See if the baffle is in the top of your radiator. You gotta have it. I can run 75, but usually keep it at 60-65 on long trips

 

hey thanks! much appreciated!
Yeah I'm actually gonna pull the head when I get the Winfield Red Head off my buddy,..should be soon,..he's been burning the candle at both ends lately, no time to get together,...

I'll tell ya, I cant believe my wife is soooo patient with me and helpful!! We spent the entire day out working on the roadster's subframe. We had to cut the subframe to get the rear of it over the 2" stepup in the rear,..then I totally pulled out the far rear cross sill, and made one out of 1x3" rectangualr tubing. Welded it all up, gave it some paint so it wouldnt rust for now, and we're heading bak out tomorrow to start on the trunk floor..mocking it up with cardboard for now, then hopefully I'll get it completely cut out, and welded into place,...HOPEFULLY!!

 

thanks guys
yes it was a nice suprize!
i wasnt sure if they were alum or not so i checked with a magnet!
then i dove in farther and saw the beef to them ...phew!
i should have any problem with cam walk on this as it has a bolt to keep it in place on the front timing cover
now i just need to find a gear ratio so its a bit snappier

coaltown....winfield red head!!!!
lucky dog!.....if you ever wana sell it let me know....nice score
now get that sucker done

 

thanks for the suggestion. No baffle in there. I made one that sits right below the radiator cap out of a flat piece of aluminum kind of helps. I made a new gasket for the cap too but I have to wait 'till I get my starter back. I'm having the fields switched to 12 volt. Hopfully it will mellow out the starter. Also updating the bendix.
later, c.b.

 

Some times you can add more fiber washers to the armature shaft to drag the starter so its not so violent.

 

With no baffle, the water pump is forcing water straight at the cap and out the overflow tube. It needs to have a hole (1/2" or 5/8") so you can make sure you have water covering the tubes.

 

A couple more suggestions...

A fairly quick, ...and effective band-aid on the cooling is to take a small piece of fuel hose and slide it over the overflow tube just under the cap and let it rub under the cap. That will allow the returning water to rise in the tank to the highest level possible. Again, it cannot be over-emphasized that if the core will not flow the water, then all the band-aids in the world won't allow the system to cool properly.

On the starter, I have a couple of my race cars that are on 12 volts with stock-type starters equipped with a barrel-drive bendix and they will start up to 10:1 compression without a problem. If you are concerned about the "aggressiveness", consider installing a small(er) gauge wire from the battery to the switch to act as a voltage drop.

 

Howdy Guy's I will be reminding you over the next few months, about a flat hillclimb / speed meet in northeast Iowa.
Here is a link to the FAST event
http://www.hotforhotfours.com/fast2007flyer.html
or look at the FAST site for info and last years photos.
There are only a few of us that push it, but its a real hoot.

 

Anyone have a copy or know where I can find the Les Andrews book, can't find it? What do you guys think of the Secrets of Speed collection? Thinking of buying it, wondering what you guys thought? Thanks...

Projects look great!

 

FAST= cutting edge A and B performance
Secrets of speed society= historians with a sprinkling of new tech. I LOVE my SOSS mags and also enjoy bs'ing with the local FAST members. You will regret joining neither.

 

The Les Andrews' books should be available from any of the Model A parts houses, Bratton's, Snyder's etc. I've seen them new on Ebay occassionally too. Well worth the money.
Prefer FAST to SOSS myself. Just my opinion though.

 

Corn boy,....

what is the small copper tubing coming from the oil pump area on the side of the block, seen in this picture you posted??