Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects Going to give this a try 27' T build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by trcooperone, Mar 18, 2019.

  1. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    Well I have never tried a really early build so lets give it a try.

    After going to the Santa Barbra drags I got the bug! So I came home and with in 48 hours started!

    I picked up a Model A frame and a 27' T and now I am committed

    I am trying to keep this as inexpensive as possible, famous last words when building a car but so far I am not doing too bad.

    I pulled the T body and sold the rest of the T chassis. I picked up 4 rims, drop axle, front wishbone, and a rear axle.

    I also picked up an 8BA flathead, it is mostly complete but needs pistons and rods. I have it posted up for sale because I think it will to much to get into a runner.

    I think a B motor with a few hop up parts will be cheaper

    What do you all think? How much to get the 8BA
    a runner?

    I am in San Diego and brand new to flathead motors, I don't know anyone who builds these bad boys.

    I hope to be consistent with this build thread, also famous last words...

    I am going to say thank you in advance to everyones help and suggestions, I am going to need it! Flatheads and 30/40s hot rods are new to me!

    IMG_6664.JPG IMG_6675.JPG IMG_6676.JPG IMG_6683.JPG IMG_6688.JPG IMG_6693.JPG IMG_6705.JPG IMG_6706.JPG IMG_6707.JPG IMG_6708.JPG IMG_6709.JPG IMG_6711.JPG IMG_6719.JPG IMG_6725.JPG
     
    enloe, cactus1 and slv63 like this.
  2. Flathead Dave
    Joined: Mar 21, 2014
    Posts: 2,047

    Flathead Dave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from So. Cal.

    I guess a hat looks better then steer horns...

    Try H&H Flatheads.
     
  3. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    Haha, need to keep the sun off my face when pulling the body!
     
  4. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 4,670

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Well good for you.
    Nothing better than taking on a new project and sharing it on a Forum that can help, answer questions, give encouragement and provide many threads that will inspire you.

    Keep up the good work, you seem to be headed in the right direction so far...
     
    Register now to get rid of these ads!

  5. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    Thanks fiftyv8! I haven’t really posted here but have lurked for a while.

    I am excited to get this build going!
     
  6. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,062

    raven
    Member

    What? No update? And I thought you were excited to get this build going.
    Good luck with the build, anxiously waiting for progress.
    r


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  7. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,130

    evintho
    Member

    That's a great start you have there! Yes, it can be built inexpensively if you're a good horse trader. Always keep your eyes open for deals. Also, don't cut corners, especially in the safety and suspension departments. Just got my '27 on the road and I'm right at the $4000 mark, including purchase price. Took me 9 years, though! Check my build thread for a few tricks to keep costs down.
    https://www.killbillet.com/showthread.php?26458-27-roadster-with-force-fed-4-build-has-begun

    [​IMG]
     
    jimgoetz likes this.
  8. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    That’s awesome evintho! Good looking ride!
     
  9. 56premiere
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 1,420

    56premiere
    Member
    from oregon

    Best use of skateboards I've seen. Good start on a hot rod
     
    scotty t, chiro, King ford and 3 others like this.
  10. Travis latour
    Joined: Jul 7, 2015
    Posts: 34

    Travis latour
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Putnam CT

  11. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 578

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Since the rods and pistons are already out of the holes, get a dye check kit and inspect your cylinder walls, valve seats and the webs around the crank mains. I don't know what year 8BA you've got but the later ones had thinner webs than the earlier and were more prone to cracking. I just found that a block that I thought was perfect was cracked through the valve seat and all the way down the cylinder wall. Couldn't be seen with the naked eye. It's about $65 for the kit and you can use it for weld inspection also. Pretty handy to have around.

    By the way, it wouldn't be any imposition on me at all to run out to your place and get that '27 body out of your driveway for you. I wouldn't even charge you for it. I know how neighbors get about unsightly stuff bringing down their property values.;)
     
    enloe likes this.
  12. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    I think I will probably sell the 8BA, I just don’t have the budget for a full rebuild.

    I’ll probably try and find a model B banger and call it good.

    My goal is to build a car I can take to RPM nationals and TROG.

    I am not trying to win, just have fun!
     
  13. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 4,670

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Choose your tranny very wisely, I find the tranny is key in old car builds particularly.
    Lots of gears is good...
     
  14. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    I found a 35’ V8 tranny today for a good deal and snagged it as well as a model A banger that is a fresh rebuild.

    Both great deals and couldn’t pass it up.

    Called Clings and ordered my adapter. I was having a hard time finding a tranny and was going to run a stock model A tranny until I could get what I wanted. I lucked out today.

    No pictures yet, can get the motor until this weekend and the trannybis getting shipped to me. (Still better than if I found one local!)

    There are a bunch of little things I need to get to make it a roller like u-bolts front and rear for the springs, shackles for the springs, lug bits for the rims...
     
  15. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 543

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    b engines with speed part are not much cheaper ask me how I know.Would have been more practical to put a small block anything in my 28 but wheres the fun in that.
     
  16. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 9,334

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    Hmmm..... Let me see what I might have for a set of rods and pistons. Send me a DM to remind me.
     
  17. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    Burl exactly! The A engine I got is fresh. I’ll get the cam either reground or a new cam and a high Comp head and call it good.

    Won’t be lightnight but fun!
     
  18. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    I am using a T rear spring pack, does anyone know if I can use A shackles with a T spring in the rear?

    I don’t have shackles for either right now and will order some but don’t want to order the wrong thing
     
  19. CA. 280
    Joined: Jan 8, 2010
    Posts: 188

    CA. 280
    Member

    Looks like you made the best first step, bought a complete '27 to get a title.
     
  20. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    Yup, it will still be a fight! It’s the CA dmv, they hate you extra when you are trying to bring a classic back from the dead!

    I have my vin verification done, bill of sale and statement of facts...
     
  21. Outstanding start. I like where your going. I am bilingual, I understand both Banger and A-V8. I hope your wife understands you now have an infection.
    20180404_153408.jpg 20151023_094047.jpg
     
  22. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    I have a set of 4 19" model A wire rims. Can anyone point me in the right direction of pictures of a 26/27 roadster with 19" rims?

    What tire size do you recommend? Same size all around? Bigger in the rear?

    Also does anyone know if model A spring shackles with work on Model T springs. This is all for the rear suspension
     
  23. madfish
    Joined: Dec 9, 2006
    Posts: 938

    madfish
    Member

    You want to check out Clayton Paddison's Model T. He started out with Model A rims and changed over to Buffalo wires. He's the man when it comes to hot rod T's
    Clayton 1.jpg clayton 2.jpg
     
    Felipe Toltecatl, hfh and NWGreaser like this.
  24. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    His car is awesome! I have read a few threads about his car and watch a few you tube videos about it.

    19” wasn’t my first choice but I got the rims for pennies so for now it is what I have.

    Just looking for different tire combos with a 19” rim

    Anyone with the shackle info? Will a model A rear shackle work on a Model T rear spring?
     
  25. wood remover
    Joined: Dec 23, 2012
    Posts: 833

    wood remover
    Member

    T spring is 2 inches wide , model a.spring is 2 and a quarter .
    Cut 1/8 th off.each side of the hanger and use a 2 inch shackle .19 inch model a wheels on the touring 20181230_150411.jpg
     
  26. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    Wood remover your the man! I am assuming the spring eye is the same on both the T and A spring.

    And thanks for the picture!
     
  27. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 727

    dwollam
    Member

    Or if you don't want to cut the perch you can use an 1/8th inch washer on each side of the T spring using a stock Model A shackle. Most people use the top short leaf from a Model A spring on the T spring pack to locate the spring properly in the Model A crossmember. The T spring is a little shorter so mount the main leaf to the Model A rear axle, then start adding the other leafs until you have what you think will work, then install into frame. Use caution taking the spring apart as they are a bomb waiting to go off!

    Dave
     
    1stGrumpy likes this.
  28. trcooperone
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 141

    trcooperone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from San Diego

    Picked up the motor I am going to use today!

    I have a few questions that I could find the exact answer for when searching...

    I am going to run mechanical brakes

    What pedal assembly do I need to run my 35’ V8 transmission with the A motor?

    I already ordered the transmission adapter from clings

    Also, the guy I bought the motor from is an old hot rodder and he suggested for a “budget friendly” hop up option is to machine the thickness of the head gasket from the stock head to give you a higher compression head.

    Anyone ever heard of this?
     

    Attached Files:

  29. When it comes to raising compression, babbit has it's happy limit. To high and short life. I believe it's 7-1 but don't hold be to that. I will verify that tomorrow.
    Being your adapter is to mount to an A motor does it have a thread boss on the Left side where you can install a Model A pivot shaft. If so I'd use Stock A pedals and adapt to V-8 crossshaft. I believe in K.I.S.S. don't re design something that already works.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.