Tired of screwing around with this motor so I need advise from you guys in the know. What of the following, is the cam that you would want for the HEMI in your hotrod. I know what lift and duration is but nothing of the best for reliable peak street performance. Not looking for something to radical, just one that lets it known there is a "cam" in it. These are Hot Head cams. Hydraulic P/N 22008.354 H205 (.426 lift, 205 Dur .050, 110 ls ) 331/354 $ 350.00 P/N 23002.354 270@111 (.465 lift, 221 Dur .050, 111 ls) 331/354 $ 250.00 P/N 23004.354 280@108 (.485 lift, 232 Dur .050, 108 ls) 331/354 $ 250.00 P/N 23006.354 280@112 (.485 lift, 232 Dur .050, 112 ls) 331/354 I am open to others if there is some out there, cost is a consideration but tolerable if reasonable.
P/N 23004.354 280@108 (.485 lift, 232 Dur .050, 108 ls) 331/354 $ 250.00 This profile will have the most lopey idle of the group due to the 108 lobe separation angle, but there are about a million things to consider when picking out a camshaft. Here are the basics; What is your cubic inch? What is your transmission/converter? What is your tire height/ rear end ratio? What is your compression ratio? Are your heads iron or aluminum? What do you do with the car? All street? What is your rocker arm set up? Adjustability? Are these profiles flat tappet or roller? What is your piston profile? ( will you have valve to piston clearance) What cam is in it now? What is your intended RPM range? Personally, I vote for the biggest one they make, but that isn't always a good idea...... -Abone.
Hot heads is a good source for info and parts although they do not make the cams. I put a crane roller in my 354 but that was what my engine builder felt most comfortable with. Of course compression ration like George and others mentioned is important as well as. Induction method gear ratio and purpose of the vehicle.
I have a crane cam in mine but haven't ran it yet. It's on the 107 center line so I'm going with a manual transmission.
Alloy heads need a 1 point increase in C/R to over come the greater heat dissipation of the alloy vs iron.
Same questions as already asked: what displacement ? The listed cams would be ok for a 392 but not a 241. flat tappet or roller? rollers can have more duration than a similar flat tappet profile. If this is a daily driver then I'd stay away from the 108 lsa .
Larry listed it all in post 9. You have to click on Flamebones quoted post to expand it to see all the answers.
I would do a little homework before you buy anything. Pull your sparkplugs to relieve compression. Get a magnetic base and a 1"travel dial ind and place it against your valve spring retainer. Rotate the engine a full revolution.One time on intake and one time on exhaust. Now you know how much your valve moves with your current set up. Divide that by your rocker arm ratio and you have the lift of your current cam to compare with what you want to buy. Then you need to take/make/buy a tool that will let you compress the valve springs enough to remove the keepers and disassemble the valves on one cylinder. Once you have it apart, set the piston at TDC and use the indicator to see how far the valve can travel before it hits your piston. You may want to do the same thing at 10 before and 10 after TDC. Remember you will need to subtract from that travel the amount of clearance you want between your valve and piston. So if it travels .700 and touches the piston and you want .100 safety margin, your valve can only travel .600. Again, divide that by your rocker arm ratio and that tells you the maximum lift your cam can have. Also while you have the springs off, you need to measure the distance from the valve seat to the bottom of the spring retainer and that will tell you the length of your spring when its assembled. Next squeeze the spring in a vice till it is completely compressed. Measure that and subtract it from your installed height and you can tell if its able to handle the lift of your new cam of choice. Don't want the springs bottoming out. Don't know how you can check spring pressure so you probably need to buy the right springs for the cam you want. You still have to know the assembled length and the compressed length to be sure the cam will work.
That's what I was told by the seller George. Just more Bullshit from him? I ask. I'm not schooled in this.
10.5 should have some pop up, or @ least ones I've seen do. perfectly flat tend to be stock. Had a set of 13:1 once....
Have not searched Hemi Tech, but will be doing so immediately, and book marking it. Thanks George, and BTW my go to Guru says only pull it down to see if cam damage has resulted and replace it needed with all new lifters. He has always been here for me, but I have prevailed on him way to much in the past 4 or 5 years and its damned time I put on my old man big boy pants and get this one on my own. So...………………….I may be here at times with questions. Pretty embarrassing at 81 but then I guess we should never stop learning.
Just wanted you to be sure you check things before you just put a different cam in and possibly do some real damage.You HAVE to be sure the valves won't hit the pistons. If your friend is a good guy he won't mind at least telling you what needs to be done. There are lots of times when you just grit your teeth and work thru a situation. This isn't one of those times. Continue to ask....first
Thanks K13. guess that I wasn't paying attention. As George questioned, flat tops don't make 10:1 unless some serious cutting has been done and that is never a good idea. Given the details, and IF it is actually 10:1, I'd still keep the cam on the mild-ish side....the 465 x 221 would be tops. .
If there is significant cam/lifter damage then a complete disassembly is in order to clean out the random scrap metal. You really don't want to risk more damage; in fact I'd pull the pan and inspect the bearings. If they are clean then you might be ok. Be sure to put a big magnet in the pan. When you shop for lifters look for VL-8, HA812, HT812, J812 or something with a similar part number.....EXCEPT FOR COMP CAMS...their 812 is for a shiverlay. .
The Jalopy Journal
