Hud, The engine is on the dyno cart and final hook-up is being completed. I have a 540 BB Chevy to dyno this weekend, then the GMC goes on next week. I'm not crazy about the headers (partners wanted a certain look) But another header can come later. Ron
top stuff... ok, my 'non-educated' pure 2c guess.... 295-305hp @ 5200 rpm 415-420ft/lbs @2200 rpm I do hope you get more, but even still, that's a pretty big number for a HA/GR Cheers, Drewfus
Drewfus, I'd be tickled to death with 400+ lb/ft of torque. The rpm drop from second to third will be from 5500 to ~3000. With that much rpm drop I need a lot of "grunt" thru the mid rpm range. I worked all day today at getting it on the dyno... maybe this weekend. My guess: 320 HP @ 5700 400 TQ @ 4300 Hell, it may only make half that....then you'll hear me cry. Ron
Hud, I'm sure your aware of the trials and tribulations of building unusual engines. Well, I've been "trialed and tribulated" to death trying to get this beast on the dyno. The carb kits finally came today (they were suppose to be here last Thursday). The external oil lines to the rocker arms and the distributor/cam gears had to be made ...after I found the special fittings. Bottom line....I'm running behind schedule, as usual, and the 540 BBC is about ready to dyno and takes priority over the Jimmy. If I can get the 540 out of the way this week I'll put the Jimmy on and spend the weekend playing with it. Ron
HA! I'm a couple of years behind. Just prodding you along, for my own selfish inspiration. Hoping good news when the time comes.
Thanks for the good thoughts guys. And if you would, please sacrafice a squirt of gasoline or a dribble of oil to the Horsepower God. Maybe HE will be kind to me with a few extra horsepower...or SHE (as the case may be) will kick me between the legs, and laugh, while she questions; "what the hell makes you think you can make this beast run"? More news at 11. Ron
Drewfus, Not on the dyno yet. I finished the carbs this weekend and I'm trying to find Brad Penn Break-in oil, hopefully to keep the cam from going flat. I've removed the inner valve springs to reduce the load on the cam/lifter interface during break-in. If I can get the oil I'll fire it and break it in tomorrow. I should have some news this time tomorrow night. Ron
Good luck finding that local, IIRC there's a Hamb Aliance Vendor that carries that, but I don't remember where they are . I'm waiting with baited breath (mmmm smoked oysters ).
Nex, I had the hardest time finding a local distributor for the Brad Penn break-in oil. Then they had to have a case shipped in from Wichita and I can't get it until Thursday morning. At the rate I'm going the engine will be rusted solid before I can light a fire in it. I feel the wait for the oil is necessary since I'm running a flat tappet cam and I don't want to take a chance on it going flat. I've been reading online, and talked to several cam mfg'ers and oil company engineering dept's about the flat tappet cam problems. I finally decided on the Brad Penn break-in, and Red Line synthetic 10W-30 after it's broken in. I hope I've made the right choices. The engine WILL be dynoed this weekend if I have to put cooking oil in it. Ron
Has anyone tried (or have any data on) the 'direct lube flat tappet solids (I think they're Isky parts) with the microscopic oil hole in the center of the friction surface of the tappet (laser drilled IIRC). I was just thinking that should help the scuffing situation (preventing it that is). But I have been thinking of having the next flat tappet cam I order not only nitrided but parkerized, extra up front, but not if you only have to buy it once (yeah I could have it hard faced, but I'd rather go roller by that point, and would likely cost about the same). Or am I way off base?
fwit I have used GM's EOS in new engines and had no problems. Also used it at cam changes with good luck. Yes, they changed the part # ,but it's still there.
Ahh.... the surprises when you build these old engines. Got the engine on the dyno, all hooked-up, hit the starter and only got a grunt. Dead battery??? No, all the damn cylinders were full of water and the engine was hydro locked. Kevin broke thru into the water jacket on one intake port when he was porting the head and forgot to tell me. Most likely he told me and I forgot. I pulled the head and we repaired the hole and it will be pressure tested and back on the dyno tomorrow. At this point I'm almost scared to start the damn thing. This engine has been a pain in the ass from the get-go. It will either make good power or blow up on the dyno. A stock 216 Dodge or a 235 Chevy looks real good after today. Ron (I guess that's part of hot rodding)
Nex, I think the direct lube solids are a great idea. I'd still do a controled break-in by reducing the spring pressure with weaker springs, lower ratio rocker arms, break-in oil (Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs) nitride, etc. Hindsight tells me I could have gone to a roller cam for about the same $$$ I have in my flat tappet. But, my momma never bragged on me being her brightest child. Ron See you all at Mokan this month.
Guys I am not in the engine business but have built 5-6 engines over the last year or so ( including 3 GMCs) and have never had a camshaft failure. I use the seal power break in lube and some sticky (black) spray lube i picked up at a bearing place. I think sometimes we worry too much over this issue.... Get er done Ron we are dying to know. I have my engine out for a seal problem and will be running it on the dyno as well, we can compare numbers etc. My 322 came out of a pulling tractor and is kinda a unknown soldier..
There is something to be said about simplicity. Particularly with engines. Sometimes its more fun to be hammering a simple, tough engine than worrying constantly over what you know is pushed to the edge. We're still on the edge of our seats though, horsepower hungry lot that we are. Hud
Well I fired the Jimmy this afternoon and broke it in for 30 minutes. It sounds good and the exhaust temps were within 50 degrees so my intake manifold must be pretty good. I'm going to let it cool off then retorque the head, install the inner valve springs and hook up the end carbs. Then it's dyno time. I modified the Rochesters to use Holley jets and I removed the power valves so I'll have to go slow on the dyno testing to determine where the jetting needs to be. Does anyone know the max fuel pressure the Rochester 2 Jet carbs can take? I can work it out on the dyno but if I can get in the ball park first it will save some time. It cackles pretty good when the rpm gets below 1500. Now I want to hear what it sounds like at the other end of the rpm range. Ron
Hud, The Gods of Speed smiled on me finally: 339 HP @ 5400 346 TQ @ 4600 I may be able to tweak a little more power out of it by playing with the timing and jetting some more. I ran out of time today. Comparable HP & TQ to a good 350 SB Chevy street engine. I'm pleased. Thank's to all of you for the offerings. Ron
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