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GM style 4-link - Questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Voh, Aug 18, 2012.

  1. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 854

    Voh
    Member

    I picked up a rear axle from a 1965 Pontiac Lemans to run in my sedan. Of course that was an A-body car with the four link. I need some good references that I can get (suspension books or people) to see if it would be worth installing into the sedan. Of course it would be ideal to run air in or, but leads might be so much easier.

    Thanks - VOH
     
  2. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 854

    Voh
    Member

    Any help?
     
  3. MRTS33
    Joined: Aug 17, 2011
    Posts: 207

    MRTS33
    Member

    Might be simpler to cut off that style mount and weld spring perches on that rear if the widths are close to the same.
     

  4. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 854

    Voh
    Member

    That's my fallback. I know for a fact it will be easier. But it's all apart now, thinking about "do it once, do it right"
     
  5. 1pickup
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 960

    1pickup
    Member

    I've got a '36 Chev P/U w/ a '65 Chevelle rear (same as Pontiac). It's buried in the shop now, so no pics. Using the stock arms top & bottom, some simple brackets were welded to the '36 frame. It was this way when I got it, but it looks like it was a fairly easy fabrication.
    The biggest problem I see w/ your '41 (I have one of those too) is the "tophat" style of frame. I think if you look closely, you should find that the factory didn't attach any suspension to the top part of the frame. The bottom (flat) part, is pretty heavy-duty & handles the load. That's why you shouldn't do frame clips on these. A MII front works, if it's a bolt on. They are engineered to sandwich the bottom part of the frame. So, parallel leafs is probably the way to go, but I also prefer the four link & think the stock GM setup is great. It worked fine on my circle track car. Of course, leafs don't work too well w/ air bags. How about a 2 link (like the old Chev trucks), with a panhard bar?
     
  6. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 854

    Voh
    Member

    I would love the 2-link. Need to save up for one. Also need to save for the MII bolt-on.


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  7. Are you after handling or just getting around the closed driveshaft? And is the drum-to-drum distance close to the same on the old and new rearends? ... what are you after?
     
  8. ponchofrailey
    Joined: Sep 16, 2012
    Posts: 24

    ponchofrailey
    Member

    Go with the four link. and air is easy. suicidedoors.com used to be the best to get the parts and tips from, but i haven't talked to them in a wile.

    a good website with some basic geometries


    http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/4link.shtml
     
  9. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 5,867

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    I put a Grand National rear in my 46 CHevy, with factory trailing arms. It's a really easy thing to do.
    IIRC, I just clamped the rear in position on the stock leaf springs to get it located correctly.
    Then cut up a 2 x 4 piece of tubing (1/8" wall) and welded it to the chassis , with tabs to locate the lower trailing arms. You might have to make cardboard templates to get this right, as they have to be angled in 2 directions coming off the rails.
    Get your pinion angle right, then do the same for the uppers. To have a place for the shocks and springs (or air bags) I took 2 pieces of 1 1/4" round tubing and made a crossmember directly over the rear, and used flat 1/8 plate for the spring mount, which I surrounded with a piece of 1/8" 1 in. strap for strength. Then welded in a couple 5/8" bolts for an upper shock mount.
    I might be able to find pics of it somewhere, if you really want, but it may take time to find!
     
  10. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,899

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ease if installation is not the issue, the geometry is.

    I don't recommend the GM setup with air ride. The difference in lengths between the upper and lower control arms induces too much pinion angle when the suspension cycles.

    Unless you install adjustable links, you cannot adjust the pinion angle once the install is done, so you had better pick out your ride height, up front, and not change your mind later. Also, the pinion angle will only be correct when at just that ride height. Adjust the ride height, and the pinion angle is instantly off.

    You are better off with a triangulated 4-link, who's bars are equal in length, when viewed from the side. Installed properly, there is no pinion angle change, until travel becomes overly extreme (beyond where the bags will go).
     
  11. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 5,867

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    You are better off with a triangulated 4-link, who's bars are equal in length, when viewed from the side. Installed properly, there is no pinion angle change, until travel becomes overly extreme (beyond where the bags will go).[/QUOTE]

    Good point!
    Also have to add that doing this suspension, you have to cut out a lot of trunk floor, and you lose quite a bit of space.
     
  12. jbc jobe
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 30

    jbc jobe
    Member

    2 link kit by jimenez bros customs comes with everything.
     
  13. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 854

    Voh
    Member


    I know- thats the one I'm am planning on.
     
  14. cain
    Joined: Nov 28, 2006
    Posts: 153

    cain
    Member
    from riverside

    We have been installing 2 links and selling a lot of them on the Hamb as well as many other forums. You will be happy with the ride.

    JIMENEZ BROS CUSTOMS
     
  15. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 854

    Voh
    Member


    All I hear is they are the way to go. The install looks so clean and simple. I have tried to win one, now Im just trying to save up for one.
     

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