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Hot Rods GM chevrolet a starter problem

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 325w, Sep 11, 2017.

  1. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 4,716

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from texas

    tried to turn the 307 over with the starter. 168 tooth flywheel. Staggered bolt starter nose. Rebuilt four field starter. New solenoid and drive. Used flywheel. Flywheel,is on correctly. Hit the key starter tried to edge and hung in the flywheel. Loosen the starter bolts and the drive comes loose. After .160 of shims it still hangs but goes farther into the flywheel. Any ideas as to what's wrong. Engine turns with flywheel tool are at the crank pulley.
     
  2. Do you have the correct mounting bolts with the knurled shaft.
     
  3. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 4,716

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from texas

    Yes correct bolts
     
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  5. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 4,716

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from texas

    Already added .160 shims. That's way,too many so something's not right.
     
  6. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 14,768

    tfeverfred
    Member

    Has the block been machined?
     
  7. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 21,206

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That's one I never considered before.
    I have seen some rebuilt starters that came from parts houses that have had the mating surface machined so much (maybe more than once) that they are a pain in the butt to shim right.
    One thing, if you think something is hinky with the end frame on the starter new Delco starter end frames aren't very spendy.
     
  8. BigDogSS
    Joined: Jan 8, 2009
    Posts: 695

    BigDogSS
    Member
    from SoCal

    I did the research and found that a small, high-torque, permanent-magnet FACTORY Chevrolet starter from a 1999 C/K pick-up (5.7) is a bolt-on affair. I bought a NEW ACDelco starter from Rock Auto for about $100 w/no core charge. Compare these to expensive "mini-starters". I've done 2 installs with no shims within the last month.
     
  9. I've done several for customers in the early to mid 2000's, the only downside (a very small one at that) is it doesn't have the 12v kick up for the points when cranking.
     
  10. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 4,716

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from texas

    The flywheel has a counter weight on it. So I'm thinking I messed up there.
     
  11. 400 fly wheel ?
    Good thing it's on correctly:p:D
     
  12. H380
    Joined: Sep 20, 2015
    Posts: 244

    H380
    Member
    from Louisiana

    That is the 3/4 ton 2500s for sure (and maybe the 3500s not positive). 1998 was the last year in 1/2 ton 1500s.
     
  13. uncleandy 65
    Joined: Jan 14, 2013
    Posts: 190

    uncleandy 65
    Member

    I had the same problem with a new Delco. Come to find out these are made in Mexico now and I went with a high torque small and it works great with no shims
     
  14. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 4,716

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from texas

    Well ----! Flywheel changed and the problem is better but a problem. Got mad and quit. Will try using a washer on one side then the other as a shim next. After that throw a fit!
     
  15. e1956v
    Joined: Sep 29, 2009
    Posts: 1,061

    e1956v
    Alliance Vendor

    The marine solenoid has the r terminal for the 12v boost.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  16. King ford
    Joined: Mar 18, 2013
    Posts: 902

    King ford
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from 08302

    Ditch the " correct" bolts , shimming down gains a small amount of " out" away from the flywheel, with the smaller bolts you can actually cheat it out a little bit and if necessary twist it a little bit to get the drive further from the motor and the brush end of the starter closer
     
  17. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 4,716

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from texas

    Have used every style starter nose that's for 168 tooth flywheel and nothing has worked. Shimmed everyway I can think of and nothing works. Cast iron nose aluminum nose straight and staggered. So what now. Guess I'll try the 153 tooth flywheel. Starters are heavier than they used to be.
     
  18. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 4,261

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Same gear on the starter all along? Long shot but...
     
  19. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 4,716

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from texas

    Changed the bendix to an American made. Same ole stuff.
     
  20. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 4,261

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    What trans? Can you see up there? Take the solenoid off and pull the gear in by hand? If you leave the starter bolts tight but rock the crank does it pop back out? Nose hitting inside of bell housing?
     
  21. Ok so let's back up a bit to the first post.
    Specifically to the part of 0.160 shims.

    If everything is ok and as it should be - with out the shims, there's no way the starter could have ever engaged that fly wheel to hang up. It would go thunk thunk into the face of the gear. if the 0.160 shim still had it hanging up, then there's a problem. You said without those shims it engaged but got stuck.

    Try a completely different starter, not just a nose.
     
    Hardrider77 likes this.
  22. Is it a manual? I use Chevy truck bellhousings since the starter mounts to that instead of the block. Been using the same combination since around 1983 in various cars.
     

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