^ True... But the solid truth is most of these cars will outlive their owners. I'd like to think someone is in for a pleasant surprise the next time mine is opened up.
steve is right about it being "semi opaque red " is the term they used and thick like honey left in a fridge , the Stuff I had was the real GE stuff I got from the HV transf0rmer rebuild shop here in Chicago ( long gone) they used it to seal seams on the transformer main tank and insulation wraps , you have to make sure there is not a spot of any oil on the block or it will lift ( peels off in a sheet ) . and it will peel off if hot tanked . the stuff had to applied and cured level as it ran like paint but once it dried and was cured it was slick . the stuff I seen now is like 2 part floor epoxy and thin . for a street engine its a waste of time , for a motor that trys to hold oil on the top end it does its job also works on blocks that have a porus galley in them too
if you can, once the can is opened to use a inert gas to blanket it . my GE glyptal hardened solid over a few years in the 3/4 empty can that was paint sealed on the cover but not blanketed , the stuff I gave my buddy from my can is still liquid as we used nitrogen/argon gas blanketing when we sealed it . and its now 20 + years old .
Hello, well I painted the Glyptal today. It went on pretty easy. I took a die grinder & ground down all the cast surface on the top of the head. I also chamered the oil drainback holes & cleaned it REALLY good in the parts washer at work. What I'm wondering about is that it went on kinda thin with a lot of brush strokes showing. Will it dry thicker & even out a little or do I need a second coat? thanks.
I think Hudson did them at the factory. Spare motor that came with mine turned out to be a new,never run 308. Must have done the blocks before machining because every inch of non machined surface was covered. Jet wash cabinet at the local machine shop wouldn't even touch the Glyptal but removed all the gray painted over it.
I've spent countless hours preping, deburring & smoothing out casting flash on oval track blocks, drilling out main oil passages, restricting drain back holes, installing deck plugs & resurfacing. I tried the internal painting "rustoleum" only once as a teen, it stayed put & lasted. Although I worried about it lifting the whole time. Lucky for me we have a heated hot tank & steam cleaner, so getting it super clean is easy. I now choose to focus on casting flash & leave most of the block casting in its raw state & without paint to slow down oil drain back rate & let it have a chance to cling & "cool" somewhat in the lifter gallery & lower pan rail areas. There again I'm into endurance engines. I've a friend who recently POR15'd his block & personally I feel like it might not dissipate the heat like oem engine paints or casting grain. I don't want to use it on axle housings or anything that gets hot & has oil in it. A good thought to ponder might be ..... Do the internal coatings retain or dissipate the heat? Be neat to know the oil temperatures of each method in a test setting. Good topic & either way both paths will most likely be ok. Flux
Industrial gearboxes etc sometimes are "painted" on the inside by the OEM to capture errant casting sand for eternity. Also to seal porosity that might cause leakage or seepage. http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/pro...ealers/solvent/catalyzed/polane-primer-sealer I imagine Typically life is cooler inside an industrial gearbox, and there is less high velocity oil bombardment than inside a race engine.
If you're worried about drain back, the heads hold the most oil. Run external drains back to the pan. Grind the valley, but this is race car stuff.
16 bottles of wine on the wall, 16 bottles of wine, take one dow..ahh forget it!! Pete! Dang! now the songs in my head!!
Somebody mentioned glass-beading. Not a good idea for aluminum parts, because some of the glass embeds in the metal; you can see it with some magnification. The piston ring companies specifically warn not to clean old pistons with glass-bead; instead blast with salt or soda, then wash the parts. I'd be afraid of using glass bead on any internal part, even iron parts, just for fear of not getting every bit of it off/out.
IMG_00211_zpsgjahic4r by chessterd5 posted Jun 17, 2016 at 2:25 PM IMG_00271_zpskamewb7v by chessterd5 posted Jun 17, 2016 at 2:20 PM IMG_00221_zpsrebc6xbs by chessterd5 posted Jun 17, 2016 at 2:28 PM Here are some pictures of the Glyptal applied to the top of the head. And one of the port & polish in the chamber & the valve guide area. This is the first time I've ported a head. thanks.
Its not about looking cool its all about being cool. It is a form follows function deal, you either get it or you don't. Most motors will function just fine without the added care.
Can Death row Dave please offer advise on the heat lamp cure for glyptal ? Should I try to get as hot a lamp as possible and keep an eye on the temp with a heat gun, like for 4 hours or so ? What is an optimal temp goal for cast iron ? I don't have the option of baking my parts at home. What did Chessterd5 do for heat, if anything ? Thanks for yor time, Shawn
You might ask here: See post #52. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...jr-fuel-destined.1085889/page-2#post-12312658
In my opinion part of the job of oil is heat transfer . If you coat the block with anything you stop that function. I believe a block that has had 50,000 heat and cool cycles does not put off any debris after a 30 years in a daily driver. Just my opinion, I am mostly wrong.
I've had some of my race GMC's blocks over 30 years heads too. All of them have been Glyptal painted after having the dipped at Strip Clean back to raw cast iron. None has ever come off.
View attachment 3821834 View attachment 3821835 View attachment 3821834 View attachment 3821835 Bringing this back up, pulled my intake to clean it up and paint it and here is the inside of my block. View attachment 3821834 View attachment 3821835 View attachment 3821834 View attachment 3821834 View attachment 3821835
This is goin to be tuff with out a complete tear down and scrub down . It’s got to be so clean the bless it Virgin Mary , would be proud before painting . Tuff to do with an assembled engine . Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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