The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Splitbudaba, Feb 6, 2017.
Not my car, hope Dave is out there for the answer to your question! Sure looks like Lokar!
I have been very busy with the new house. Siding is just about finished, soon time for paint, if winter holds off. Been ordering parts for the drivetrain. Plan on getting the drivetrain and wiring up and running. Might do a cam change, like the thumper cams, might go well with a 600 Holley double pumper and a four speed? Time will tell. Will try to get some pics for the next post!
Sorry I haven’t been on here for a while, yes it’s Lokar
Glad to hear from you! Hope all is well! Just got our second snow last night. Trying to get finished, getting ready for winter. Re-organized the garage, next I finally get to work on the coupe!
Finally getting back on the coupe. House is far enough along to have some fun. Here’s the coupe in her shop, next shot is my battery box. Anybody know what that is?
Has a cool quick disconnect! Vents, all stainless with top latches.
Nice battery box. I like that disconnect.
That disconnect gets locked and has holes for breakaway copper safety wire.
That is an aircraft batterybox
Very good, it’s a big ni-cad battery box from a big Falcon 2000 aircraft. I must remove two baffles inside, and then drop in a 12 volt battery, it has internal connections for the 12 volt so the quick disconnect will be functional. I plan on running a vent system.
Great progress, looking good.
Found a nice set of 461 sbc heads, new seats, guides, 2.02 intakes and 1.60 exhaust stainless valves, and rebuilt by a reputable local shop. They have a mild port job and were checked for cracks. He’s asking $350. That would wake up my 350, raise compression and look traditional all in one change. Anybody have anything I should look out for or be aware of?
I like the way you think!
That's a great price if everything is copasetic.
Check the valve spring compatibility with your camshaft.
I just sent that question to the seller, how much lift can they take and pressure at what height? Haven’t purchased a cam yet, that might be a good thing! I have another set of 461 heads and I know I can’t get them redone for that price!
No go on the heads. Found out who rebuilt them. Not my first choice. Better luck next time.
Probably smart to cut your losses before they turn into larger ones.
In the early 90's I bought a pair of "freshly rebuilt" heads from a dealership engine mechanic for the 350 in my 66 Suburban, plug and play ready, looked real nice and the $200 price tag was pretty attractive but 800 miles into a full rebuild the engine started fouling three cylinders due to excessive valve stem to guide clearance.
Bit the bullet and bought new Edelbrock aluminum heads for the price that had been quoted to me to fix the iron heads, really wish the aluminum Trick Flow camel hump heads had been available then.
Me too! Bought new castings from Chevy. Had a so called expert assemble. Less than 200 miles and developed a miss. Took them off, disassembled them, he had the seats so narrow, they were doomed. Did them myself and lapped them in. Worked great sold the engine 8 years later still running in all 8!
Getting around to flywheel time. I have a 57 Chevy truck bell housing. The starter bolts to the bell. I think I need a 168 tooth 10.5 “ flywheel. That makes the diameter about 14”. The car should weigh in at 2500. I am trying to get some info on the weight of the flywheel. I have a Super T10 with a 3.42 first gear. Main use is a driver. Anybody have any ideas or experience with the weights? Let me reword this, does anybody currently run a light weight aluminum flywheel? How do you like it!
Well decided to go with iron flywheel and small clutch. Now working on the fuel system. Probably delco mechanical.
Use the lightest flywheel you can on circle track stuff (helps accelerate coming off the corner and slowing down going into the corner). Most circle track stuff uses an internal clutch (actually inside the tranny housing) and resembles a motorcycle clutch. If they run a triple disc or something similar they run an automatic flex plate. Save that rotating mass.
Use a heavy flywheel on a drag car (get up to speed on the line and it helps maintain RPM on shifts as you go down the strip). I've seen 75-90# flywheels on several friend's drag cars thru the years. A heavy flywheel will make a car drive deeper into a corner when you are off the gas, can be a scary feeling if you don't expect it.
Pick your poison based on what you want to accomplish with the street use.
Sounds good, biggest factor is still the damn budget. Actually thought about selling her???
Finally got back on the coupe! Time to fit body panels, hood first. Bought a one piece hood somewhere, along with the center hinge kit! Good I did, hoods not even close (see pics). Had to re- radius the corners , still can feel the metal give at 70, encouraging! Anybody have any lacing ideas, how about rubber hose, I am not running sides, no need for lacing on the sides. Any softer products available?
Just got a quote from a local machine shop to rebuild my set of 461 Chevy heads. Close to $700 for everything including seats, and I have my own valves and cam kit!! Sounds kinda high but am not sure. Anybody ever go thru this?
Well when you see stuff like this it sure seems high to me, I used Edelbrock rpm heads on my Henry J and bought them pretty much like this ad, they worked great for me and I certainly thought about buying these as well.
Guess I am getting old! My head has a hard time keeping up with the price of things! Thanks for your response! Maybe that quote I got wasn’t so bad after all!
Those heads I posted are way way better than those 461's and only a couple hundred more than what they want to rebuild yours. What I was trying to imply was is you can get a much better performing, cooling, lighter weight head for practically the same money.
I understand, I have considered that before! My wife bought me a GM crate engine. So I have a brand new set of heads, granted not near as good as yours, but with a mild port and un-shrouding of the pocket areas they would be fine for a driver. Or sell the factory heads and add the money to buy a killer set like you have! I have plenty of time to decide, but the hot rodder in me wants those aluminum heads!!! The only other factor is the casting marks on the front- I do like the camel humps on the old heads!
I understand fully, I have 461's on my t-bucket engine
I saw where some head manufacturer makes an aluminum head with camel bumps , very nice, very expensive! Your sbc has the look, 2 fours looks great!!
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