Register now to get rid of these ads!

History Give Him Both Or Give Him Death

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Ryan, Sep 21, 2020.

  1. 51 mercules
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 3,868

    51 mercules
    Member

  2. longhorizon
    Joined: Sep 25, 2011
    Posts: 60

    longhorizon
    Member

    Great read Ryan. Don't give up on the sport... the key is to pick the right conditions / the right location for your skill level. Small and clean. Consider a 'destination' trip and put a week into it. Your kids will thank you and then some!
     
    chryslerfan55 and Jungle Jalopy like this.
  3. Mike
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 3,540

    Mike
    Member

    I'm old, a little fat, broken and I don't get much practice because I live 400 miles from the sea, so these days I'm pretty much a white water surfer as well. It beats the hell out of me, but I'm still always stoked to get into the water.

     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2020
  4. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 9,289

    jnaki





    “I grabbed my daughter’s board and started paddling out in the same way I’d drive up to a McDonald’s and ask for a burger, and with no more idea of being turned down. I figured I would just set up camp on the inside and belly ride the whitewater as the giant overheads on the outside washed them to shore. The first five minutes of paddling went swell and I was well on my way to the destination in mind.”

    “The pissed off currents of the Pacific had a different idea, however, and after lots of heckling from the beach side, even more from the break side, and an hour or so of paddling my ass off, I gave up the ghost and road the current back to safety. My body felt broken for a solid week afterwards.”


    Hey Ryan,

    It depends on what board you are using. If that board is smaller for your daughter, it may not be the right one for you to paddle and then surf. The old age getting tired fast is due to the shorter boards. My last one was 6’8” and shaped to surf hard. But, the one before that one was only 6’5”/thinner and shaped with harder edges. The idea was the short board could rip the wave…which it could with me on it.

    But, the problem was being older and it was a bear to paddle into the waves. Once on the wave, it was outstanding. Overtime, the paddling back out, rolling under waves, then paddling some more was not the most enjoyable thing going.


    I could tell my years of paddling was not going to do well on that shorter board. Since my friends were getting shorter surfboards, I guess I wanted to see how well they rode on the waves. I definitely found out that no matter how good a person is, the board has to fit the rider. I found out that the shorter board was good, but the number of waves was lower, due to the paddling back out on consistent days. (some places have paddling channels between the peaks and it is helpful to know where they are.)

    The three inch longer board was shaped by the same shaper, but the added three inches was all it took to give enough floatation with better paddling out and into the waves. Now, some of my friends said that 6’8” was too short and that I should get a 7’10 or possible an 8 foot board for super easy paddling. They were all thinking… old age equals lower strength and terrible paddling. Which is somewhat true. Kudos to the guy you were talking to about surfing so many times during the week.

    Jnaki

    The consistency of daily surfing (or at least three times a week) cannot be emphasized more, just to keep the body in shape. One tends to see where and when the rolling wave white water will crash, and when to time the duck to keep the forward motion going. A slight mistake is not the end of the world. It just takes a few extra paddle strokes to get back in motion. But, the board has to be able to float you and that you are not struggling with a shorter or a board not built for you.

    One thing that was very “buggy” was those little kids that had endless energy to paddle all over the place. But, they are building the surfing attitude and health for those longer paddles or very consistent days. We started in our teens, but progressed fast and well. It was all due to the boards made for us and of course, being teenagers or 20 somethings.

    Once, I had a 7’6” Lighting Bolt Single Fin Surfboard. I was 30 and surfing three to four times a week. I was in great shape and getting some great rides on overhead waves. But, the waves were so big and consistent that it was hard to get a good ride and then paddle back out through 5-7 wave white water wall/rollers coming at you. Then to turn around and catch a wave, again. My board got whipped out of my iron grip hands and flew away towards shore. Now, I was in a “down the beach” current and the consistent waves kept coming.

    I drifted and tried getting out of the side current for almost a ½ mile. I thought I was getting swept out to sea. Being in good condition helped, as I floated between sets and tried body surfing towards the beach. My friends on the beach had my board, but saw me bobbing down the shoreline. Finally, one wave actually pushed me towards the final short rocky jetty and I was able to climb on top, for a well-deserved rest. They all ran towards me and I had to get up to show them I was still in one piece. So, the moral of the story is:

    “Water always wins…” Actually, the rock jetty helped slow down the current and that helped.
     
  5. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 5,115

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.
    1. Y-blocks

    It always seemed all connected together{Hotrods,Customs/Surf/Rock n roll/Sailing< Growing up in Coconut Grove/Miami in the 1950s an early 60s.
    I was not even close to good surfer,I liked the idea way better then how much time it would of taken me to get good,so only rented a board few times,got only to the point I could stay up a little,that did help later when windsurfing came in,an could do a 1/2 butt job of that. See, I had owned a small sailboat and raced that, from my 12th birthday on,old boat I had fixed up. My real time was used for working on my hot rod or my custom>witch ever I was having the most fun with. Too many likes an not enough time or $ for any of them.
    We had a Surf Shop on South Beach/Miami Beach that sold a few brand boards,but also the guy made custom boards as well,and rented some old logs. The Fresh Hot Bagel shop next door was really the best trick to meet those hot beach chicks anyway. Looking back,I maybe should of tried to learn the smart way,by paying for a few lessons. But my cars n dates,were using up $ an time.
    It was big at South Beach,some times,when ever a hurricane was passing close enough to drive it. Run over to watch the crazy's. This was South Beach an Surfing was done between Pier an the jetty,the big two story SQ. Dog Track parking garage,we used as parking{Dog Track was not open on sundays,but did sell parking for 75cents, in the under side in the shade. The cool thing to do was get there early, get a parking spot right along the beach side wall lower level= close to beach ,some babes there to only look,not swim or surf, a Hot Rod gets some talking going. Sitting on wall in front of my hot rod in the shade,with feet in the sand,an a bag of fresh hot bagels to offer,when meeting some pretty girls seemed to work well,an that was a extra why to hang out . A very cool scenes in the early 1960s.
    . southbeach surfing.jpg
    The dog track is gone/so no parking now, the city pier is gone/had been there from the late 1920s,an taking away that screwed up bottom an wave shape, so surf is not as good ether I'm told now but still happens. So it is still surfers only between were pier was, an jetty,swimers are north of there.
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2020
  6. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 9,289

    jnaki




    Part two:

    Hello,

    In speaking to many people in the physical fitness field, the kinesiology field and other surfers, there seems to be a reason for a long standing, “bad back syndrome.” If you think about it, in the early days, surfers that kneeled down and paddled that way moved quicker on those long boards. We, who could not kneel due to bad knees from football/rugby were prone for laydown paddling, even paddling through mucky waters of ponds leading to pristine beaches and surf breaks.

    Laying down and paddling shorter boards does not do any wonders for your back. You are constantly arching your spine when you lift your head and neck, as you paddle. If you are not in the best of conditions, or have prepped your body to accept the reverse arch on your back/spine, then the consequences will be the same, after a day of paddling/surfing. There is so much your normally slightly curved spine can take, before it starts to give back pain and suffering.

    This is reverse body technology, but doing crunches helps with the strengthening of the whole body and will help with the reverse arch of surfboard paddling. Static stretching of those back muscles prior to any paddling activity is always a good start. Your body is not ready for any activity, so static stretching prior to any physical motion is always a good thing. Your stomach will appreciate being flat and strong. Your back, on the other hand, will thank you for supplying needed support for that time when you are putting strain on the reverse arch technique in paddling.

    Jnaki

    But, keep in mind, any activity that strains the body is susceptible to aches and pains. Bending over the fender of a hot rod puts a strain on the lower back. Get a chair to help keep the lower back somewhat straight. Squatting is better than leaning over to fix or do something. But, a daily, early morning regiment of 50 crunches (old days sit ups) does wonders for the stomach muscles helping the back function. We are not going for a "six pack," a two pack will do or just a strong set of stomach muscles. No need to add 10-20 lbs weights behind the head... your body will get stronger as a slower speed and comfort. Just be consistent.

    Start out at a lower number per week. Be consistent, you can’t do 50-100 on the first day to speed things up. Do it week by week and it will eventually get to 50 per day. 50 crunches takes about a minute and a half. So, you are not taking much time out of your busy life. Then, that strengthening action will help out in auto mechanics, sitting at desks, or out in the water. Over the long years, there must have been a handful of lower back pains for me, but not due to surfing, auto mechanics or yard work. It was picking up our son when he was a toddler. An anxious kid running toward you is expecting you to lean down and “Pick a boy up!” (Most think the arms are doing the picking up, but it is the back working on a pivot point. Squatting is much better.)

    If you do get a strain, no hot tubs or spas. Those aches can be calmed down with time periods of ice technology, not hot water or spa episodes, after an aching paddle. Cold first, then the cold turns to heat as a secondary effect, using the sporadic ice treatment on and off. No hot water or jets are necessary.

    Good luck and stay safe...
     
    NoSurf and chryslerfan55 like this.
  7. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 9,289

    jnaki

    upload_2023-4-18_4-14-34.png
    1928 Long Beach City shoreline at the Pike. The Los Angeles River outlet is at the top of the photo.

    upload_2023-4-18_4-15-20.png
    Western end of the old Pike with waves showing. At the time of the photo, there was no Breakwater Jetty to stop any swell.

    Hello,

    As enthusiastic as our dad was during our beginning surfing stages, (after our Willys Coupe accident in 1960), he always pointed out the fact that he and his friends used to body surf 10-12 foot waves near Pike roller coaster/pier. Yea, right, Dad… chuckles…from both sons...ha!
    upload_2023-4-18_4-19-27.png early photo showing a wave on the Easter side of the roller coaster with no Breakwater Jetty to stop any swell as in the modern days. "every body's gone surfing..."

    My brother and I always laughed and said that the place does not get any swell at all, except when a big Southern Hemisphere hurricane or storm comes blasting into the protected harbor at the Seal Beach end of the Breakwater. Then our dad just smiled and said this was before the Breakwater was put in and there were good breaking waves all over the place. Starting with the L.A. River mouth, just north of the roller coaster.

    upload_2023-4-18_4-25-12.png
    Yes, we agreed that there are waves breaking in the mouth of the L.A. River mouth, as we rode some breaking peaks a couple of times. Near the Golden Avenue Landing and the Ocean Blvd bridge. It was fun and the peaks broke right in the middle of the river outlet. How does that happen? The breakwater was already in place in 1962 and the northern end of the Long Beach harbor is well protected.

    Our dad was confused until we told him how the Southern Hemisphere swell comes in through the Seal Beach open end and the opening in the middle of the breakwater at an angle. The powerful swell comes up the protected inside waters. As it approaches the Rainbow Pier and farther on… the mouth of the L.A. River, it sends rideable waves at those two spots. Normally, it is as flat as a pancake, but in these swells, it actually breaks in various spots.
    upload_2023-4-18_4-26-30.png a regular at the Golden Street Landing parking spot
    We also rode the Linden Avenue portion of the south side of the Rainbow Pier in 61-62 and the LA River peaks only during these swells they were fun waves, but powerful. Head smackers for sure.

    Jnaki

    Wait...So, how does a swell break in the middle of the mouth of the L.A. River? The flow of debris and topsoil from all the way inland to the San Fernando Valley down the long winding river to the ocean in Long Beach brings excellent topsoil as has been the case for centuries. With the flood control channel walls built in, the water just flows to the ocean and does not spread a flood plain like during the 1920s and 1930s.

    upload_2023-4-18_4-29-0.png
    1920-30s Los Angeles River mouth waves at the Long Beach shoreline.

    The soil drops where ever it wants and starts its new life. When we got blasted off of our boards on the River mouth waves, it was shallow top soil that felt like sandy mud. It probably was the same excellent top soil in our backyard of the last Westside of Long Beach house, which was three blocks from the river. So, prior to the flood control channel walls and the tract homes, it was a wild flood plain of topsoil and flowing waters to the ocean. We learned in a geography class in college that it was called an “Alluvial Plain” that is the result of flowing waters to the ocean on any river, anywhere in the world.

    The odd thing about this breaking wave in the middle of the exit/entrance of the L.A. River was that is just did not break like the photos shown. Remember, the large Breakwater was built protect the Long Beach City and Harbor areas from erosion and usefulness. In our times, the swell came in through the openings of the current breakwater jetty.

    The direction of the southerly swell had just the correct angle to come into the harbor and move North. when it came to an obstruction, the Terminal Island rock jetty along the L.A. River, it hit the rocky wall with some power. Then, we could see a swell moving back toward the center of the flowing river mouth. When it hit some sandbars or what ever was underneath the surface of the river, just like anywhere a wave breaks, the surface of the bottom created a wave. The peak rose just as it hit a sandy berm or obstruction of some sort underneath the water's surface.

    So, our dad bodysurfed the pre-breakwater waves on the Long Beach shoreline and we surfed the same area years later with the breakwater rocks in place, but only during certain South Swells. What a coincidence… The breaking wave in the L.A. River mouth was not a long ride, but a nice peak, and good for a quick turn and one or two cutbacks. But, the location prior to the breakwater rocks in place would have been quite a nice beach break throughout the years and swells…

    upload_2023-4-18_4-39-45.png The beginnings of the Terminal Island Naval facilities with breaking waves on the Long Beach side... no breakwater at the time, only open ocean.

    Although it was an exciting adventure traveling all over So Cal beach areas for good waves and the experiences we created or enjoyed was all worth it for the skill it provided along with the memories. But a good surf spot just several miles from our last house in the Westside of Long Beach would have been outstanding. We would have been regulars at those surfing breaks all along the 6 miles of white sand shore line ending up at the Seal Beach jetties. Who knows what kinds of peaks would have come to the varied shoreline sand bottom areas without the breakwater rocks.


    Wow, a what if situation, our Long Beach Poly High School would have had a Varsity Surf Team surfing local waters as our home court. How cool would that have been !!!











     
  8. You better have a Bio suit on to get anywhere near the L.A. river.......
     
  9. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 9,289

    jnaki





    Hey IM,

    Yes, we do know about the current status of the L.A. River. When we were moving our sailboat from the Cabrillo Marina in San Pedro to somewhere closer to our Orange County house, we looked into getting a slip at the Shoreline Marina in downtown Long Beach. (A fairly fast freeway access to LB) We knew about the flow of the river and the closeness to the marina. So, we asked our boat bottom cleaner in San Pedro. He said he loves Cabrillo, but Shoreline Marina is a no-go for he and his co-workers.

    Too many divers were getting sick cleaning bottoms in the Shoreline Marina and it was right at the end of the flow from the L.A. River. So, he politely declined and we looked into the southern end at Alamitos Bay and Newport Beach. Most marinas have some kind of river outlet nearby. But some are greatly affected and others have a channel to go directly to the ocean, down current, flow and it keeps their marina fairly clean.

    We ended up in the Dana Point Marina for years and then finally, the San Diego Harbor for our last sailing and harbor dock home.

    Jnaki

    Today, the pollution list is always published and the L.A. River has its own problems. So, in my last summer drive to Long Beach in 2019, that river was still flowing, as usual. People were still out sailing and fishing at the end of the river near the Queen Mary boat. (The late 50s and early 60s, it was polluted as all rivers going out to the ocean. but, not to the extent of todays garbage...)

    They are taking a big chance... but, the swell just was not pumping like we used to see during the Southern Hemisphere swells. Would I surf there today? Nope! As close to all of the amenities that the marina holds, it is not worth the effort and taking chances. YRMV
     
    NoSurf, lurker mick and chryslerfan55 like this.
  10. TERPU
    Joined: Jan 2, 2004
    Posts: 2,372

    TERPU
    Member

    Eaton's innovations will always be present in the water. Smooth and Flowing shapes with easy transitions in almost every size wave are his everlasting gifts to us. I was a Surfer long before the Hot Rod hit. Honestly I could live without a Hot Rod, not without the Ocean. I've tried twice. No Jive on that dry lifestyle. Hot Rods Just became the way to get to the Beach. At least for me anyways. And what a joyous ride they both are!

    the saying is true - If I have to explain it you just wouldn't understand...... IMG_20221008_113014_548.jpg
     
    NoSurf likes this.
  11. FrozenMerc
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 3,092

    FrozenMerc
    Member

    Growing up in Minnesota, I was never exposed to anything closley related to surf culture. It wasn't until years later that I found out there are a number of surfing clubs around the big lake known as Gichi-Gami.... Superior.

    The best waves come with the Gales of November, not exactly the warmest time of year, and requires a passion rarely matched.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    NoSurf, jnaki and TERPU like this.
  12. TERPU
    Joined: Jan 2, 2004
    Posts: 2,372

    TERPU
    Member

    That's pure Stoke! I admire your ability to keep going after it, makes me shiver just thinkin' about it.


     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.