Projects GHS 1949 Ford Custom Project

Noticed that you linked to the 060 over. Think we should bore it out larger for the extra displacement, or should we just bore the minimum needed?


Also, am I reading online correctly that a 1949 would have hardened valve seats? It lost them in 52? Just checking.


Lastly, I wish I could find a good online tutorial for valve seat grinding using a Sioux seat grinder. I've got 2! Never used them really. I've used the valve grinder. This is part of being a younger shop teacher. They stopped teaching this stuff when I passed through school. Maybe the local machine shop can help. Though they told me that they were swamped. We wanted to send them our block and they said they were back logged for weeks.

 

I would just go to the size needed/recommended by the machinist
that's just the one that came up first

 

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=ford+valve+seat+grinding&tbm=vid
see if these will help

 

I had seen most of those, they all seem to use a different tool, but that first one may have been right. I'll need to watch it again more closely.

 

FYI, our block/crank/piston/rods are off at the machine shop right now. We're starting to sew up seat upholstery and we've almost finished our first door panel!

 

Yikes! Engine parts add up fast! Thankfully Dan's Machine Shop in Sunnyside WA is cutting us a deal and I believe will be doing the labor for free. We also had Cromwell Radiator, in Grandview, offer to clean out and repair our gas tank and radiator for the cost of any needed parts. So that's all a bug help, but we probably just racked up a $400 bill on engine parts. Ah well. If we need it, we need it.

 

Great to hear you're getting help from local places! What all did you get for engine parts?

 

Haven't bought it yet, but will be getting all new bearings, pistons and rings. Crank is getting ground, cylinders bored, and the block checked out ok for cracks. That's a relief.

 

So, the smallest oversized piston that we can find is 060 over. Sound right? I haRven't seen anything else around.

 

I haven't ever seen anything smaller, like .030 over.

 

Anyone contact Eggy Machine? Only .060 over just don't sound right.
The Wizzard

 

I know you can go bigger, I just haven't seen anything smaller.

 

You should check out Northern Auto parts the sell a kit. you can get .030" over pistons comes with everything but cam and valve train.

D Smith

 

Checked Northern Auto. They did have a 030 kit, but it looks like it costs more than what I was looking at. I'll need to do the math and add everything up...

 

Sad part of rebuilding a motor is that you can't go part way.

 

Best way to fill the backside of the trim holes so we can fill them?

 

To the skilled metal worker it's simple. Clean both sides of the metal as well as the inside of the hole. Take a large piece of Aluminum for a block/heat sink. and press tight to the back side. Use .023 wire in your Mig machine and plug weld the hole shut roset style. While the weld spot is still hot take your 6" grinder with a 40 grit soft disc and grind the weld flat to the door skin. Once cooled do a on dolly bump till the shrinkage is gone and the skin is back to it's correct shape. Prime and paint. I've done thousands of them and never any need for "Body man in a Can". Often it takes 2 people to do the job due to access and lack of reach. Practice on some scrap and see what you think.
The Wizzard

 

I can't see how we're going to be able to get to the ones above the rear wheels, there's no real access back there. Neither from trunk nor from the wheel well.

 

How necessary is windlace? Would it look like garbage without it? We're already doing a custom interior.

Pictures anyone?


Looking at the cost of windlace (and due to our budget) I may just try to find some similar cloth and recover the windlace that we have...

 

Mac's Auto has a decent headliner price as well as windlace. $2.25 per foot is much better than the other sites I was finding. Cheap resto project gets expensive quick...

 

Anyone have a good/cheap source for piston pin bushings? That's the last component for our rebuild... Could not find one at the stores we were using...

====================================

Ok, scratch that. Found them at Rock Auto of all places...

 

NOOOOOO!!!! Radiator shop just called and told me that the radiator was no good and they could not repair it...

Well, what's our cheapest option?

So far eBay seems to be my best option... $215

 

We use to take a real copper penny and clean it then clean backside , tin it and sweat it in and just run a file over it and it's done no warpage. I haver tried it with small pieces of metal and tin them and it works just as well, Old School

 

I would think that the radiator shop would have been able to do this. I haven't actually talked wit them yet...

 

I wish my car was at that stage. Looks good.

 

We just block sanded all that down, going to put another coat of primer on today in the areas where we did some glazing putty. Hoping to have it ready to paint by summer. I can come in on my down time and get it painted.

 

I believe he's talkin about the trim holes you mentioned earlier.

 

Got our engine back. Beginning the assembly process. Working on blasting the rims before we powder coat red. Interior is slowly getting worked on. We're using undercoating in the trunk. It has some bad rust. Eastwood Rat Rod Matte Black will be going on in a week or so.

Fun times!

 

Ahhhh... ok... I was thinking, "copper radiator, copper penny, seems to make some sense..."

Yeah, we ended up going with brazing, since we had the stuff and it was lower temp. Worked ok. Definitely a learning process.