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Getting rust off old tools and keeping it off

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ehdave, Feb 25, 2012.

  1. ehdave
    Joined: Feb 28, 2009
    Posts: 119

    ehdave
    Member

    Hey guys and gals,

    I bought a bunch of older panel beating tools off ebay for $86, some are in good condition, some average and others totally buggered. Some of them were sitting in a tool box that got water in it and they are pretty badly rusted.

    Is there any way to clean the rust off and keep it off? Some of the dolly's will probably have to be resurfaced if they are salvagable but i figure its worth the effort.

    Here's some photo's to give you an idea, any info or idea's appreciated.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Cheers
    Dave
     
  2. 37mj
    Joined: Jan 22, 2009
    Posts: 66

    37mj
    Member

  3. Jimbo17
    Joined: Aug 19, 2008
    Posts: 3,786

    Jimbo17
    Member

    I second the vinegar idea as it works real well!!!!!!!

    Jimbo
     
  4. When you get the rust off, use a Scotch-Brite wheel on 'em where you want a smooth bright surface.
     

  5. Just to try it and with no expectant results, we put some old tools like that to the ospho treatment. They were headed for the scrap yard so perfect lab rat material. one piece was a cast iron drill press table, a barely recognizable combination square bade, some hammer heads. Came out great and haven't rusted in years. That blade is my favorite one.
     
  6. The files are probably dead, but the hammers and stuff are reusable/restoreble. Get the surface on the dollies VERY SMOOTH or they'll leave impressions in the metal. Guess how I know that?
     
  7. unkledaddy
    Joined: Jul 21, 2006
    Posts: 2,865

    unkledaddy
    Member

    After the vinegar douche try some of this;
    [​IMG]
    It dries tack-free and only leaves a matte finish.
     
  8. Deadelvis2000
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 217

    Deadelvis2000
    Member
    from Austin, TX

  9. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 5,893

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    I glass bead and paint my hammer heads, if they come off the handle, and put new handles on. The actual work surfaces, and this has to do with your dollies, you have to progressively sand smooth, and put a polish on them. IF they are worth keeping!
    Files can get ruined by rust, and unless you send them out to get professionally sharpened, are junk. They should never be allowed to bump and bang against each other in a bag, or even a tool box. I'd only do this with older curved Vixen files, as the rest are easily replaced.
    I also hang my hammers on a pegborad to keep them separated, and cut a thick piece of upholstery foam in a deep drawer of a cabinet, to house my dollies. Each dolly has a hand cut out spot for it, so I dont' lose track of them, as well as keeping them apart.
     
  10. charlieb66
    Joined: Apr 18, 2011
    Posts: 549

    charlieb66
    Member

    List them on ebay, maybe you can get some of your money back and buy the one or two items that you will use new from a supply house.
     
  11. Foot
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 10

    Foot
    Member

    Stuff to clean rust I found on the HAMB:

    Ultra One: http://safestrustremover.com/#

    Then preserve with Gibbs Product: http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/#prices
    Gibbs thread on the Hamb:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=419773&highlight=bare+steel

    Ultra One was used to clean the buried 57 Plymouth from Tulsa.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Ultra one sprayed on with a $59 pump from Sears through a garden hose and spray gun:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Then there is CLR and green scotchbrite pad: or Wood Bleach (cheaper)
    CLR/ Wood Bleach thread:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=522153&highlight=clr
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2012
  12. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 8,687

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    Soak them in molasses and water, I use 1 part molasses to 20 parts water. When ready hose them off then dry with compressed before you oil them up. Just like new. Alloy will dissolve so beware.
     
  13. jvp
    Joined: Jan 10, 2010
    Posts: 5

    jvp
    Member

  14. ehdave
    Joined: Feb 28, 2009
    Posts: 119

    ehdave
    Member

    Thanks guys, i'm going to give the vinegar a go first and will probably give the other idea's a go too as i've got a few car parts to clean up too. I wonder if any one sells ultra one here in Australia because it would be a huge help on my desoto.

    Cheers
    Dave
     
  15. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,476

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    Clean the files and try them. They may work OK. I used to sharpen old files by leaving them outside to rust for a few days then cleaning with a wire brush.
     
  16. About old files .... everyone has heard of Buck Knives, welp the guy that started it all (I think his name was James Buck) used to work in the aircraft plants in San Diego and when they would toss all the old files he would bring them home and grind them into knife blades ... and that was the birth of Buck Knives
     
  17. WOODEYE
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 342

    WOODEYE
    Member

    I had not heard of the Buck knife being made originally from old file blades so I looked it up on at Buck Knife History. It shared that Hoight Buck made his first knife blade from a used file blade in 1902 as a Kansas Blacksmith. He and his son moved to San Diago in 1947, set up shop and the rest is as they say History. Pretty interesting as has been the rest of the rust removal ideas.
     
  18. Old Roadster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2006
    Posts: 611

    Old Roadster
    Member

    Excellant thread,the Buck knife story was very interesting. Keep the rust issues coming I'm working on an old Ford heater as we speak.
    Jack
     
  19. EHBoy
    Joined: Nov 30, 2006
    Posts: 66

    EHBoy
    Member


    +1 for this trick but i run the mix at 1 part molasses to 5 parts water.

    dont know where in bris you are but these guys sell molasses for $1.50 a liter just take your own container

    brisbane northside produce
    563 Albany Creek Road Bridgeman Downs QLD 4035
    <NOBR>(07)3264 5100</NOBR>
    <NOBR></NOBR>
    <NOBR></NOBR>
    <NOBR>oh and make sure you leave the container outside cos it stinks, </NOBR>
    <NOBR>also make sure you wash the parts realy well with water when your done then oil straight away cos stuff will flash rust fast.</NOBR>

    also if you have a few more dollars get some of this stuff the videos are true it works amazing. http://www.evapo-rust.com.au/
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2012
  20. toprodz
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 18

    toprodz
    Member

    The other thing you can use is powdered Citric acid and water, doesn't smell as bad as molases and works just as good. I tried it a while back and was impressed with the same results, and I purchased the citric acid at the local super market in the baking dept

    Peter
     
  21. Old Roadster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2006
    Posts: 611

    Old Roadster
    Member


    What mixture do you use for citric acid and water?
    Jack
     
  22. toprodz
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 18

    toprodz
    Member

    I tried it using 3 small containers about 2 1/2" tall by about 1 1/2 round, (sorry I can not remember the abount in each one) in about 2 1/2 gallons of water and a day later my head light bucket was rust free, I took it out a couple of times and lightly brushed it with a nylon bristled brush.
    Here is a link to where I first read about it
    http://www.ozrodders.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44410&hilit=citric+acid…
    I hope this helps
    Peter
     
  23. Old Roadster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2006
    Posts: 611

    Old Roadster
    Member

     

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