Here are some pics of perch pins being removed with a puller. They come out a lot easier being pulled vs. beating them out. The tool was made by wayne-o on here. The pics are of the project, the tool, tool installed, an pin mostly out. A little heat was still required but just to get it's attention. If i was going to pull a '35 up pin, I would weld a sleeve on it for pulling and cut it off afterward. Better than beating the threads flat.
Wow, i'm surprised that would work. I have had them in my 20ton shop press and not budge them. Guess i'll order up some acme threaded rod and etc to make me one of them. thanks, oj
When you try to push them, the metal actually tends to bunch up and the more you push, the more it bunches up. I just used a 12" adjustable on it and did not have to pull that hard.
That sure simplifies things! ...And it can be easily fab'd out of stuff from the scrap bin. Thanks for the tech .
Do you think that tool would work better if you fine tuned it with the U section somehow modified to center the threaded rod over the perch pin? This would give it a straight pull not pull on one side more than the other, or am I over thinking things?
I built the puller but the real credit needs to go to Andy as he is the one that told me I would be better pulling than pushing. I only used it once and it worked great. Had to put a little heat on the axle to get things moving. I used a piece of 3/4-16 fine thread all thread rod in B7 (heat treated 4104) material for the stud and hardened steel grade 2H nuts. The fine threads give you more strain on the perch with out as much effort on the wrench. Just coat it good with neverseeze to keep things from galling. I would not use an Acme stud for this as the coarser threads will make it difficult to get much force. As for centering over the perch, it would not make any difference as the load is still applied off center due to the spring hole not being centered over the perch bolt, hope this makes sense. The perches did not bend when I pulled them. Here is a picture of when I used it.
I made a puller using finethread and after a bunch of use i can see the threads are wearing out. I have noticed that all machine tools use the acme thread and i assumed that the square shoulder of the acme was designed for this type of abuse. I understand the 'bunchup' effect when pushing, i didn't see it before but it is clear to me now. I have a 6' piece of 4130 threaded rod either 5/8 or 3/4 and the rest of the stuff is layin around. I bet i'll have me one of them by the time the Redskins get another asswhoopin on the radio. Thanks oj
First off, GREAT idea with the puller. I will say my very first thought was the same as above. On fine vs coarse thread: I was noticing my KRW valve guide puller has really coarse threads and has obviously been used a LOT over the years with no issues. But I have also noticed the KRW hub pulling tool makes use of fine threads.
Brilliant idea! It wouldn't make a difference where the rod was located, it's still pulling on the offset perch hole. It would likely just bend the threaded rod over toward the perch hole.
great stuff! I suggest you put a pic on the home made tool thread to make it easy to find for other hambers. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235784
Thanks for sharing. I'll make one of these. It's like the cop stoping a drunk walking down the street dragging a chain. "Why are you dragging that chain"? Drunk "Ever try pushing one?"
Dont get too excited guys!!! This is a much better way than most for removing pins!!! <O I got a Snap-On Perch Pin Puller [very kewl old vintage tool] and my pins were stuck so bad that they did not budge. I tried heat but was not able to get things cherry red with the tools at my disposal <O I ended up visiting the local alignment shop and they got them out with their largest press and heated them up cherry red. $30 a pin sucks but they got them out <O
Yes, I made them out of 3" channel and notched to fit over the axle to keep it centered, the rest is 1/2" plate.
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