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Getting Engine Ready For Paint Sucks...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by terd ferguson, Feb 15, 2011.

  1. philly the greek
    Joined: Feb 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,845

    philly the greek
    Member
    from so . cal.

    Just a little tip that might help. Whenever I'm painting something with holes that I don't want to get painted , I plug the hole with a cork . I have a box of corks in sizes from 1/8" to 2" in dia. I got mine from a company that supplies the pottery business. No longer do I have to run a tap into a threaded hole after painting . Good luck .
     
  2. Leadsled51
    Joined: Dec 21, 2001
    Posts: 333

    Leadsled51
    Member

    I noticed you said "base, pearl and clear" Put an epoxy primer underneath first, such as the DP90 from PPG or whatever is close to the color you are going with. Not only will it be pretty much impervious to oil, gas, etc., the primer will kind of "fill in" the roughness of the casting, making it easier to cover with your basecoat. If you want to go a little cheaper, PPG also has OMNI line epoxy primer, works just as good.
     
  3. cheveey57
    Joined: Mar 11, 2010
    Posts: 677

    cheveey57
    Member


    The old "Tom Sawyer" painting the fence approach, now that's funny.
    Kudos to your son.
     
  4. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 5,696

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    Brake Kleen, Brake Kleen, Brake Kleen....best stuff for the last steps in prep. Even blasts gunk out of recesses, nooks and crannies.
     
  5. gardenjeg
    Joined: Mar 30, 2008
    Posts: 94

    gardenjeg
    Member
    from nc

    Terd just put it back in the bed of the truck and go to Auto Bell. Just kidding! The weather nice, sounds like your becoming quite the de-greaser enjoy it.
     
  6. EASY OFF OVEN CLEANER,,over the years I've used everything made to clean engines,,this is the fastest,easiest way to degrease a grimy engine,,bar none!

    HRP
     
  7. jammersspeed
    Joined: Sep 28, 2010
    Posts: 347

    jammersspeed
    Member
    from herman mn.

    i use easy off oven cleaner , spray it on and let it sit for about a half hour or so.then hose it off and let it dry.then after it is dry go back over it with brake clean to touch up the spots it missed.
     
  8. 39 chevy kustom
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 427

    39 chevy kustom
    Member

    Terd you should have called me . Thats what I do for a living . You know who cleaned the engine compartment on jeremys 59 mercury . I have commercial engine cleaner (degreaser ) that makes purple power look like water.
     
  9. terd ferguson
    Joined: Jun 13, 2008
    Posts: 3,646

    terd ferguson
    Member

    I'll be using Dupont products. The paint shop guy recommended against using a primer. His reason was not to get the paint too thick on an engine so as to lessen the danger of cracking. Base, pearl and clear would be three layers, primer would make four layers.



    Somehow I totally got wrapped up in doing it and forgot you were the pro. Now, I've got the waterpump, water outlet, oil fill/fuel pump, intake and carb, valley pan, and dizzy off the engine. I've got all the paint wire wheeled off. Can you do anything in this situation? Or have any tips? Thanks Tommy!!!




    And thanks again everybody!
     
  10. Labold
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 1,219

    Labold
    Member

    Napalm. It also removes warts.
     
  11. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 5,696

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    You really don't have to use primer on the cast iron parts, but I'd recommend using it on all the sheet metal pieces. ANd you'll get better adhesion and coverage if you use it on ALL the parts. If you're truly afraid of thickness issues, use a light coat or 2 of etch primer. I almost always use epoxy and don't have problems.
    Any good paint will work, except lacquer. Don't be afraid of using base clear, or even candy or pearl, as long as you cover it with catalyzed clear.
     
  12. terd ferguson
    Joined: Jun 13, 2008
    Posts: 3,646

    terd ferguson
    Member

    This is essentially the plan. I won't really have any painted sheetmetal as I'll be replacing the valley cover as well as the valve covers with polished aluminum pieces. Everything else is cast iron. I know next to nothing about "real" painting and have been going on the advice of the paint shop pro as to not using the primer on the engine with the already thick three coats of base, pearl and clear that will be going on there.

    So, back to the original topic, I bought a case of brake cleaner (2 for 1 haha!) and it seems to be doing the trick pulling all the gunk out. After half a case, I wiped it down with the acetone again and it was pulling WAAAY less black out. Almost totally clean!!! I should be good to go for painting very shortly. The weather here is going to be near or at 70* for the next few days. So hopefully I can get it painted this weekend.
     
  13. J scow
    Joined: Mar 3, 2010
    Posts: 489

    J scow
    Member
    from Seattle

    You know your local machine shop will clean it for a c-note. Don't get me wrong I'm no gold chainer and I scrub my own. Just sayin....
     

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