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Gather round, August Banger Meet now in session!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by buschandbusch, Aug 1, 2006.

  1. buschandbusch
    Joined: Jan 11, 2006
    Posts: 1,260

    buschandbusch
    Member
    from Reno, NV

    been QUITE a busy month on the banger, been driving it much more since the Stromberg was installed, and ordered a ton of new parts- rumble seat lid handle, windshield frame, all new floors from front of firewall to back of rumble seat, upholstered the rumble seat, re-upholstered the entire entire, adding door panels, kick panels, and behind the head and around window panels. Still need to finish off the back deck and map pockets on the door panels. Got the dash painted and HAMB tag mounted, and got the entire car repainted in hunter green w/black wheels. Will get pic of the interior when it is completely finished. After Hot August Nights I'll start pulling the fenders and get a new wheel/tire combo

    where are you all at?
     
  2. 29AROD
    Joined: Jul 23, 2006
    Posts: 292

    29AROD
    Member

    just joined last month. glad to find some guys that are into the same thing i am. very few banger lovers in new england. there are here but hard to find. working on a 29 A roadster, wondering how much machine work needs to get done to the motor to put a 6.0 to 1 lions head on and a single down draft. or can i put it on get a modest gain still be able to drive it. thanks for any advice in advance.
     
  3. buschandbusch
    Joined: Jan 11, 2006
    Posts: 1,260

    buschandbusch
    Member
    from Reno, NV

    welcome to the HAMB, we need all the bangers we can get! In all my reading, anything under 6:1 should be safe for the babbit and the crankshaft, assuming your bottom end is in sound condition. I plan to run the Snyder's 5.4:1 head just to be safe, and am already running an Ansen aluminum intake and single Stromberg, 12 volt, modern water pump, etc. You should see a modest gain, especially with the head. Just adding my Ansen made it a little smoother, no rich smells like the Zenith even after several rebuilds, and no more fouled plugs. When I split my wishbones I'll be running a Red's four tube header as well. Stick around, there's a lot of banger savants on this board that can teach you much more than myself!
     
  4. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 1,997

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

    Hey Lance, nice coupe, buddy. I like it!

    And welcome along to 29AROD.
    Regarding heads and compression ratio, I used a Winfield 6.3-1 with babbitt and it was fine, you just got to remember to keep the revs down a bit. No other machine work is needed to fit a decent head, though you'll probably need to fit a fuel pump when changing to a downdraught carb. You'll notice more than just a modest difference, especially if you fit a decent header at the same time, maybe a decent distributor as well, such as a Mallory. All $$$ I know, but you can do it bit by bit and enjoy the changes as and when you make them.

    I haven't done a great deal on my A other than drive it this month....and that's exactly how I like it!
    I did score a very good B 'diamond' engine earlier this month. Perfect bores, C crank, no cracks etc, though that may be going elsewhere soon.
    I also got hold of a '42-'48 Lincoln trans with 25-tooth Zephyr gears that I was planning on installing in the A over the winter, though I may be having a rethink in that direction too.
     
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  5. Next installment already!

    Buschandbusch great stance on your coupe how about a pic of the engine?

    One question, how comes your splitting the wishbone?
     
  6. plan9
    Joined: Jun 3, 2003
    Posts: 3,923

    plan9
    Member

    coupe looks great, glad to see its on the road. leave the fenders and wheel/tire combo as is.... it has its own character right now.

    i also have to pose the question too... why split the bones?

    nothing new on my banger ,, just chassis work lately.
     
  7. buschandbusch
    Joined: Jan 11, 2006
    Posts: 1,260

    buschandbusch
    Member
    from Reno, NV

    hmmm.... good question. I just always thought it gave better handling, plus it will allow clearnace for the header. Is it something I should reconsider?

    I'll get a pic of the motor tonight hopefully :rolleyes:
     
  8. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 1,997

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

    I don't think you'd notice much difference in the handling, if anything it could make it a little worse. The axle pivots through an arc when you hit a bump and having a single rearward mount that allows this arcing to take place is probably best. Wishbones were split when larger engines and trans were fitted that wouldn't allow the wishbone to mount.
    My wishbone is unsplit and I'm running a Red's header...

    [​IMG]

    ...it's a nice header, but I did have to have the mounting flange faced as it was quite badly warped and wouldn't seal.
     
  9. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,077

    SUHRsc
    Member

    the green machine looks pretty good!

    as for splitting the wishbones
    the best handling will come from it how it is..henry knew what he was doing
    but having them split creates a very small amount of action like a sway bar because of the "twist" it puts on the axle....the axle fighting back causes this to happen

    i think the main reason people started splitting them is when they changed the A to a different motor...etc...so they couldnt be hooked up
    or when they lower the car alot..

    i'd say leave them be (like everyone else) there'll be room for a header...just ask questions...but i assume they design them to work on a basically stock model-A

    now i have a question
    with all the aftermarket overhead heads available...which ones are the most exact duplicates....i know the riley 2 port is cast iron and i think thats the only one like that....were all these others cast iron to being with? cragar, miller etc.....

    which one performs the best all around....
    im thinking im going to run a flathead on my motor but ive been trying to learn as much as possible about these overheads to hopefully build a great motor when the time comes

    nothing new on my motor though...just collecting parts for the car still...mechanical brake bits and pieces, pedals, wheels etc...

    i'm gona have some exciting news in a few days though ;)

    zach
     
  10. buschandbusch
    Joined: Jan 11, 2006
    Posts: 1,260

    buschandbusch
    Member
    from Reno, NV

    the Red's SHOULD clear, but my suspension is setup quite backwards, in that I got all my front drop with the spring slammed way down, reverse leaf and several leaves removed. I just don't see any way the header won't hit on a bump. I guess the best thing to do is rework the header, as I don't want to swap to a dropped axle and taller leaf spring just yet. Maybe in the interim I will run some zoomies stright out the side :D
     
  11. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 1,997

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

    Zach, the best people to ask about the different overheads are probably on Ahooga.com. Jim Brierley is on there regularly (and used to pop in here occassionally) and has pretty much ran all of them over the years and I think he rates the 4-port Riley above everything else.
    Exciting news? Tell us, tell us.....

    I didn't realise your car was dropped so much, Lance. How much lower than stock is it?
     
  12. buschandbusch
    Joined: Jan 11, 2006
    Posts: 1,260

    buschandbusch
    Member
    from Reno, NV

    I would guess there is 4" less clearance between the frame and the spring pack than stock. There are 3-4 leaves removed and a reversed eye spring. This brings that wishbone into about a 20 degree angle UP from the pivot point, well, not sure the exact number, but from the side the wishbone actually runs up towards the axle. :p
     
  13. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,077

    SUHRsc
    Member

     
  14. What they said on splitting the wishbones.

    I've never heard of a header/wishbone clearance problem, even with a greatly lowered car.

    Does the wishbone even run under the header? Without looking I don't think it does.

    I think the Riley 2-port is the only true replica, well on the outside at least. The reproduction Cragar is aluminium which I don't think is original, not for the early ones any way. The Norm Frick heads are all billet so that rules them out. The Dan Price 4 port is I think also billet . The Ardun never existed in period.

    Is there anymore?
     
  15. buschandbusch
    Joined: Jan 11, 2006
    Posts: 1,260

    buschandbusch
    Member
    from Reno, NV

    you guys got me thinking I test fit it wrong now :confused: I popped off the old intake exhaust/fit the header up and it hung low, about an inch off the wishbone with the front tube, the one that zags forward before making greater than a 90 degree, and then heading back. I'll try and fit it again soon just to see if I was mistaken on the clearance. The people at Red's were just as surprised as you all are, but I just attributed it to my low front end?
     
  16. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,077

    SUHRsc
    Member

    miller schofield?
    i assume that was cast iron too

    i dont want to run an aluminum head really

    when someone asked ed winfield what he thought about the aluminum head...he said ..."its great if you want to boil water"

    so im going with cast iron....i think iskendarian says the same thing?

    i wish i could just find a cast iron winfield!!!!!!

    zach
     
  17. 29AROD
    Joined: Jul 23, 2006
    Posts: 292

    29AROD
    Member

    thank you for the advice. found a manofold and header on ebay, both are no names so i am unsure if they would be a good buy or if i should stick with the ones o hear you guys are using, the winfield, riley and so on.

    i was looking to go real low with my A , 5 or 6 inches in the front and down to 17 inch kelseys, should i be ok with the withbone?
     
  18. buschandbusch
    Joined: Jan 11, 2006
    Posts: 1,260

    buschandbusch
    Member
    from Reno, NV

    not sure there is enough clearance between the frame and axle/spring to clear a 5-6" drop. Mine's about 4" less than stock I think and that's as low as I go, on big bumps it bottoms out- not a good thing! I really need rubber bumpers. The wishbone shouldn't contact anything (if you don't run a header), it will be the frame rails hitting the spring first.


    as for the intake, I bopped over to fleabay and saw the red one, looks like a good buy. If it were mass produced, surely enough engineering went into to give a modest increase at least, and be sure that you are getting a intake/exhaust setup that is an improvement over stock. Plus it's a cool vintage look! I saw quite a few stock manifolds, and only a couple aftermarkets, the red one and the cragar
     
  19. Darwin
    Joined: Oct 14, 2002
    Posts: 505

    Darwin
    Member

    One could use a 5" drop Magnum I-beam and with a rev-eye mainleaf would get it plenty low without changing the wishbone angle very much. Don't know though if the Magnum axle is available with perch hole widths that will match up to a stock wishbone. If it's just a little narrower the bones might be just pinched in a bit but if it's several inches there might well be a binding problem. As for getting a car 5" lower with a stock axle forget it unless it's suicided and then you couldn't use a stock wishbone anyway. Dropping stock axles is a specialty of several HAMBers but they won't go anywhere near 5".
     
  20. 29AROD
    Joined: Jul 23, 2006
    Posts: 292

    29AROD
    Member

    MAS racing products offers a front axle and spring setup to drop the car and for short money they will do most any spec. the kit has the split wishbones with it but it soulds like i may get better handling with the stock wishbone.just didnt know if i was going to have the clearence problem.
     
  21. Darwin
    Joined: Oct 14, 2002
    Posts: 505

    Darwin
    Member

    Check out the major gripes against MAS in recent posts. Maybe the most cost effective way would be to have the stock axle dropped and use a rev-eye main leaf. That'd get you down about 4" and with 17" tires that's gonna be fairly low. Not scraping the ground low maybe but it'd leave you with enough clearance for speed bumps, gas station humps, etc. and the stock suspension action would be pretty much unaffected. Header clearance shouldn't be a problem either.
     
  22. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,077

    SUHRsc
    Member

  23. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,077

    SUHRsc
    Member

  24. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 1,997

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

  25. been a while since i had anything useful to say or post, but this weekend the gods finally let me get a break from work, so i wrenched on my T. Many moons ago the orginal bosch clip on distributer for my '17 T speedster decided to go and wear out: damned 80 year old pot metal. The main problem is that there are lots of clip on units that will fit the post ww-1 engines, but not many that will fit the earlier ones.

    Well, friday the new texas T parts distributor arived in the mail (i gave in and bought my first modern aftermarket part for the car.) I got the car all back together and even installed 2 new 30 x 3 1/2" tubes. I got the car back together turned her over and all she'd do was give one hellacious backfire through the carb. But i dont care, cause in a few more hours, next week, i will be driving my speedster again...providing i didn't pinch a tube.
     
  26. leon renaud
    Joined: Nov 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,933

    leon renaud
    Member
    from N.E. Ct.

    Ok guys ;
    what books do you feel someone building his first banger powered ride should own ?by Summers end I will have a full flattie drive line with a stock A banger I also have a B or C crank actually what was either a fresly rebuilt engine or new at the time of either a bad accident or a frozen block the block/head are junk but insides look new! so i could use this stuff in another block.also What banger groups do you belong to or reccommend ?
     
  27. buschandbusch
    Joined: Jan 11, 2006
    Posts: 1,260

    buschandbusch
    Member
    from Reno, NV

    definitely gotta get the Les Andrews series of books, lots of info, and lots of info on building them up. I would avoid the reprint of the fifites' California Bills Ford Speed Secrets (sic?), all it says in the banger section is "don't build one!". It's two pages of info, ugh

    Get the reprints of the original Ford manuals, nice little pocket size references of how the engine and trans, carb, etc. all work together and quite affordable
     
  28. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,077

    SUHRsc
    Member

    well guys!...i finally have a running 4 banger...well i did till the crank pulley broke

    does anyone have any insight as to the best reproduction crank pulley?
    not aluminum 28-32 type

    hopefully i wont feel like as much of a poser posting on this monthly shin-dig now...ive had another motor all along...but didnt do much to it aside from think and collect parts

    thanks
    zach
     
  29. ~E~
    Joined: Feb 23, 2005
    Posts: 214

    ~E~
    Member

    My Aug banger news is : motor is still at the machine shop. Firewall work right now- smoothing and paint. Got the interior gutted, prepped and painted. Rebuilt the tranny. Will post pics and specs of the engine hopefully at the Sept meet ;).
     

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